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Climbing at South Moravia

2688 routes
6 areas
1–12 grades

South Moravia covers crags from the Drahany Highlands and the Moravian Karst through the Brno area down to the Znojmo region and Pálava on the Austrian border. The most important is the Moravian Karst north of Brno near Blansko – a limestone protected landscape area of about 92 km² with around 1,100 caves and gorges, five of them open to the public; the best known are the Punkva Caves, discovered by Karel Absolon, and the 138 m deep Macocha Abyss, where the Punkva river disappears underground. In the south rise the limestone Pavlov Hills in the Pálava Protected Landscape Area (since 19 March 1976, 83 km², highest point Děvín at 550 m), a UNESCO biosphere reserve since 1986, extended in 2003 to include the Lednice–Valtice Cultural Landscape.

The character of the climbing changes with the rock: in the Moravian Karst it is overhanging and vertical limestone – Holštejn is among the hardest climbing spots in the Czech Republic, with slippery limestone in places, polished easier routes and long run-outs. Around Brno and in the Drahany Highlands sport climbing on walls and quarries dominates, in the Znojmo area along the Jevišovka, Dyje and Jihlava valleys (Jevišovice and Křižanov Uplands) trad climbing with your own gear, often in the shade, and on Pálava climbing in the Trůn and Martinka groups. Most crags lie in protected areas, so check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association and the protected-area administrations before visiting.

Part of Czech Republic, South Moravia has 2688 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 6 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route on sun, Vertical wall.

Rules

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply. New routes only with the approval of the ČHS South Moravia regional commission.

7-
Hřebenáč
Original classification V A0 Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-
Hřebenáč
Original classification V A0 Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7
Hřebenáč
In the left part of the overhang. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5+
Hřebenáč
Start to the right of the edge, straight up the vertical wall. Quite slippery. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5+
Hřebenáč
From the second belay of the original, diagonally right to the third. Quite slippery. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5
Hřebenáč
Start behind the edge and still below the first belay, then left onto the edge and follow… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
4
Hřebenáč
Along the right edge of the SW face. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
4+
Hřebenáč
Just to the right of Normalka. Its belay can be used. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
4
Hřebenáč
Through a prominent corner in the middle of the wall. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +4
9+/10-
Hřebenáč
Original classification V A1, RP T. Pilka, 1991 Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5+
Hřebenáč
Approach same as Pa-pu, but then right to the chain of Normálka. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +4
5+
Hřebenáč
Original classification V A0 Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +4
8-
Hřebenáč
Around the third protection point slightly from the left. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-
Hřebenáč
From the third protection point of 'The Last Way' up to the right using the right edge. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+
Hřebenáč
Original classification V A1 Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+/9-
Hřebenáč
From the third protection point of 'The Last Way' straight up without using the right… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+
Hřebenáč
From the third protection point of 'The Last Way' diagonally left. Technically to a ledge… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7
Hřebenáč
Right approach variant (two separate protection points). Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7
Hřebenáč
From the first protection point straight up to the second. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-
Hřebenáč
From the right of the most prominent overhang. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7
Hřebenáč
Over the initial overhang into a smooth wall and up to a ledge and the belay. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5
Hřebenáč
Upwards in the middle of the vertical wall. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5-
Hřebenáč
Through a prominent corner up to the belay. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +5
5-
Hřebenáč
From the corner of the original, it branches off to the left and goes straight up. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +3
5
Hřebenáč
Upwards right via bolt to belay. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5+
Hřebenáč
Approach left of 'Stone and Dust' into which it connects from the left halfway up the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5+
Hřebenáč
Slippery at the bottom, then technically vertical to a small tree and finish in slabby… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5+
Hřebenáč
Upwards left along a distinct ledge. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5+
Hřebenáč
Approach two meters left of the original. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5
Hřebenáč
Detaches at the top and continues along the North Ridge. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2

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