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Climbing at South Moravia

2688 routes
6 areas
1–12 grades

South Moravia covers crags from the Drahany Highlands and the Moravian Karst through the Brno area down to the Znojmo region and Pálava on the Austrian border. The most important is the Moravian Karst north of Brno near Blansko – a limestone protected landscape area of about 92 km² with around 1,100 caves and gorges, five of them open to the public; the best known are the Punkva Caves, discovered by Karel Absolon, and the 138 m deep Macocha Abyss, where the Punkva river disappears underground. In the south rise the limestone Pavlov Hills in the Pálava Protected Landscape Area (since 19 March 1976, 83 km², highest point Děvín at 550 m), a UNESCO biosphere reserve since 1986, extended in 2003 to include the Lednice–Valtice Cultural Landscape.

The character of the climbing changes with the rock: in the Moravian Karst it is overhanging and vertical limestone – Holštejn is among the hardest climbing spots in the Czech Republic, with slippery limestone in places, polished easier routes and long run-outs. Around Brno and in the Drahany Highlands sport climbing on walls and quarries dominates, in the Znojmo area along the Jevišovka, Dyje and Jihlava valleys (Jevišovice and Křižanov Uplands) trad climbing with your own gear, often in the shade, and on Pálava climbing in the Trůn and Martinka groups. Most crags lie in protected areas, so check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association and the protected-area administrations before visiting.

Part of Czech Republic, South Moravia has 2688 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 6 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route on sun, Vertical wall.

Rules

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply. New routes only with the approval of the ČHS South Moravia regional commission.

5
Hřebenáč
Up a smooth wall to a ledge and over a vertical to slightly overhanging wall to the belay. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5
Hřebenáč
Approach right of the North Ridge and straight to the belay. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5
Hřebenáč
Approach right at the edge and through a hollow via ledges upwards. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +5
6
Staré skály
Completely on the right in Staré skály (Old Rocks) over a bolt onto the ledge. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Staré skály
Through the corner under the overhang, over it onto the ledge and up the small wall to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
?
Hřebenáč
Approach via the North Ridge and traverse left over one protection point into the ridge… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +4
7
Hřebenáč
Original classification V A1 Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
10+
Staré skály
Through an overhanging indentation to the 'egg', from there right onto the ledge to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
11-
Staré skály
Via the Vyvolení (The Chosen) route to the extended shared quickdraw, then slightly left… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
10
Staré skály
Boulder at the beginning of the overhang. Endurance finish. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
10-
Staré skály
Completely on the right in Staré skály (Old Rocks) via an overhanging edge over two bolts… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
11-
Staré skály
Through an unclimbeable-looking roof over 5 bolts to the last bolt of Big Brother and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9-
Staré skály
Original classification V+ A1, RP Z. Konečný, 1987 Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
9-/9
Staré skály
From the CPV approach ledge left into the wall and then up. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
9
Staré skály
From the hole under the overhang (no-hand rest and sling) over the overhang and right to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
9-/9
Staré skály
From the first CPM belay left and up the wall to the anchor. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
10-
Staré skály
Slight overhang on bad, spaced holds. 1975, V A1 RP T. Pilka Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9+
Staré skály
With an approach boulder into the Variant of the Underwater Streams route and onwards. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
10-
Staré skály
Slight overhang on bad, spaced holds. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
11-
Staré skály
To the right of Ippolito, over the initial small overhang into jugs and then a brutal… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9+/10-
Staré skály
Harder start of Sofia (from the right). Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9+
Staré skály
A power-endurance route with the crux below the last bolt. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8/8+
Staré skály
Crux above the third quickdraw. Small crimps and backhands. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+
Staré skály
To the right of Menstruace. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7
Staré skály
Traverse along the ledge four meters left, then straight up over the overhang into the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8
Staré skály
Approach boulder over two bolts onto the ledge. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Staré skály
Traverse along the juggy ledge left to the top of the wall. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +5
9
Staré skály
Boulder along the ledge. Grade 7B Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Route on sun +1
10-
Staré skály
Start like 'Surprise' and then diagonally through the overhang to the lower-off of 'Spasm… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9-/9
Staré skály
Easy to the third bolt and then boulder over the rounded overhang.

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