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Climbing at South Moravia

2688 routes
6 areas
1–12 grades

South Moravia covers crags from the Drahany Highlands and the Moravian Karst through the Brno area down to the Znojmo region and Pálava on the Austrian border. The most important is the Moravian Karst north of Brno near Blansko – a limestone protected landscape area of about 92 km² with around 1,100 caves and gorges, five of them open to the public; the best known are the Punkva Caves, discovered by Karel Absolon, and the 138 m deep Macocha Abyss, where the Punkva river disappears underground. In the south rise the limestone Pavlov Hills in the Pálava Protected Landscape Area (since 19 March 1976, 83 km², highest point Děvín at 550 m), a UNESCO biosphere reserve since 1986, extended in 2003 to include the Lednice–Valtice Cultural Landscape.

The character of the climbing changes with the rock: in the Moravian Karst it is overhanging and vertical limestone – Holštejn is among the hardest climbing spots in the Czech Republic, with slippery limestone in places, polished easier routes and long run-outs. Around Brno and in the Drahany Highlands sport climbing on walls and quarries dominates, in the Znojmo area along the Jevišovka, Dyje and Jihlava valleys (Jevišovice and Křižanov Uplands) trad climbing with your own gear, often in the shade, and on Pálava climbing in the Trůn and Martinka groups. Most crags lie in protected areas, so check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association and the protected-area administrations before visiting.

Part of Czech Republic, South Moravia has 2688 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 6 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route on sun, Vertical wall.

Rules

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply. New routes only with the approval of the ČHS South Moravia regional commission.

6
Vzývající
Start like the 'Malý věšák' (Little Hanger) route, slightly left (piton), from there up a… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6-
Vzývající
In the S (South) face to the ring in the depression, directly up into the gully and to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5
Vzývající
Start to the left of the N (North) edge of the chimney in the W (West) face of the … Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
4
Vzývající
To the right of the Shoulder Chimney, up an overhanging wall to a grassy ledge. Traverse… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
8-
Vzývající
Up the overhanging wall along the pitons to the summit. Original classification A1, RP Z.… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8
Vzývající
Bouldering route along the edge. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +2
4+
Trůn
A short crack in the south face of the Throne to the left of the descent route. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
2
Trůn
An approximately 15-meter long chimney, smooth at the end, leads across the lower part of… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
3
Trůn
Start directly below the overhang in the fall line of the upper part of the route. Climb… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
3
Trůn
Through the gully to the left of the rib. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
3
Trůn
Start in the gully to the right of the middle rib. Left to the first uplift. From the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
5
Trůn
Start at the foot of the central rib into a smooth wall. Bypass the top of the first… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
6-
Trůn
The last pillar on the Chocolate Edge route, from below directly up the edge to the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
2
Trůn
Along the rightmost of the three ribs to its summit (This route usually connects with the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
4+
Trůn
Start further right behind the edge of the rib. Traverse left and over the overhang… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
3
Trůn
We enter the hollow to the left of the Indiánka pillar. Up varied rocks to a small ledge.… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
2
Trůn
Ascent on the northernmost rib of Trůn (Throne) at the point where its base transitions… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
3
Trůn
After overcoming the overhang, turn left onto the uppermost section of the Flower route.… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
3
Trůn
The ascent is the same as the Indiánka route. The route follows Indiánka up to the common… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
8
Trůn
Midway, it detaches from Petit Beurre and goes left through the wall. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
5
Trůn
The ascent is reached by traversing from the left over a loose wall, and then continuing… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
5-
Trůn
Start from the ramp on the Ash Tree route, left of the Flower route. The direction of… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
5
Trůn
To the ascent via the Ash Tree route. From the ledge along the pitons, up a prominent… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
5-
Trůn
The ascent starts approximately in the fall line of the ash tree, just to the right of a… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
4+
Trůn
Similar to the North Wall route, but continue straight up, exit to the left of the summit… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
2
Trůn
The ascent starts in a prominent small cave. Over the overhang above the cave (also… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
2
Urbanova věž
From the gully S of Urban's Tower, from a detached block, step into the wall. Through the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
6+
Urbanova věž
Through the right part of the NW wall into a shallow gully, a sloping slab to the NW edge… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +4
5-
Urbanova věž
Through the middle of the S wall to the NW edge. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
3
Urbanova věž
German climbers Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3

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