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Climbing at South Moravia

2688 routes
6 areas
1–12 grades

South Moravia covers crags from the Drahany Highlands and the Moravian Karst through the Brno area down to the Znojmo region and Pálava on the Austrian border. The most important is the Moravian Karst north of Brno near Blansko – a limestone protected landscape area of about 92 km² with around 1,100 caves and gorges, five of them open to the public; the best known are the Punkva Caves, discovered by Karel Absolon, and the 138 m deep Macocha Abyss, where the Punkva river disappears underground. In the south rise the limestone Pavlov Hills in the Pálava Protected Landscape Area (since 19 March 1976, 83 km², highest point Děvín at 550 m), a UNESCO biosphere reserve since 1986, extended in 2003 to include the Lednice–Valtice Cultural Landscape.

The character of the climbing changes with the rock: in the Moravian Karst it is overhanging and vertical limestone – Holštejn is among the hardest climbing spots in the Czech Republic, with slippery limestone in places, polished easier routes and long run-outs. Around Brno and in the Drahany Highlands sport climbing on walls and quarries dominates, in the Znojmo area along the Jevišovka, Dyje and Jihlava valleys (Jevišovice and Křižanov Uplands) trad climbing with your own gear, often in the shade, and on Pálava climbing in the Trůn and Martinka groups. Most crags lie in protected areas, so check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association and the protected-area administrations before visiting.

Part of Czech Republic, South Moravia has 2688 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 6 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route on sun, Vertical wall.

Rules

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply. New routes only with the approval of the ČHS South Moravia regional commission.

7+
Indie
Climb only on the wall without using the chimney. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
0
Okrajovky vlevo od indie
To the left of 'Steel Fingers'. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Route in shadow +1
5-
Rafičkův rypák
Up the middle of the wall without using the edge and crack. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
2
Abeceda
Straight up the middle. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
7+
Okrajovky vlevo od indie
Start to the left of 'Drobnůstky', up the middle of the wall to the first bolt, from… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6+
Maturita
About three meters below the eastern chimney, via a small wall around the piton to the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +5
5
Maturita
Via the overhanging crack to the left of the normal route. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
4+
Maturita
Via the corner and crack to the small platform. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
7
Maturita
To the right of the route, the three-piton variation, around the piton to the platform. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
2
Maturita
Short crack leading from SW to the southern block of the group. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
2
Maturita
From the chimney dividing the group into two parts to the platform in the northern part.… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
5
Maturita
In the gully/canyon. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
5-
Maturita
Via the crack in the N wall. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
3
Maturita
Traverse from the right to the northern edge. Traverse from the right to the northern… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
3
Maturita
Along the N (North) edge to the highest plateau of the tower and then by traversing over… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
2
Maturita
From the lower edge of the chimney gully along the edge directly upwards to the southern… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
2
Maturita
By a short descent from the west to the lower platform of the tower. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
2
Ploutev
From the W (West) side, start on the SW (Southwest) edge, up to the 'Ploutev' (Fin). Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
2
Ploutev
Along the SE (Southeast) edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
2
Vzývající
From the large block, step right to bypass the lower part of the chimney. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
3
Ploutev
Through the middle of the N (North) wall over an overhanging start. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
4
Vzývající
Start just to the right of the chimney (Normal Route). Up the overhanging crack, then… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
7-
Vzývající
Via a thin crack to the bolt and further along the edge to the right via a small dihedral… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
4+
Vzývající
At the E (East) edge onto the foresight, to the ring and slightly right to the summit. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
2
Vzývající
Through the chimney in the E (East) face up to the N (North) edge and along it to the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
5
Vzývající
From the first protection point of the 'Malý věšák' (Little Hanger) route, traverse right… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
2
Vzývající
Via the northern branch of the chimney. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
2
Vzývající
From the S (South) chimney to the wedged boulder, from there to the N (North) edge and… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
5
Vzývající
Via the west face to a rock block separated from the tower by a chimney. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6-
Vzývající
In the S (South) face to the ring in the depression, directly up into the gully and to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2

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