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Climbing at South Moravia

2688 routes
6 areas
1–12 grades

South Moravia covers crags from the Drahany Highlands and the Moravian Karst through the Brno area down to the Znojmo region and Pálava on the Austrian border. The most important is the Moravian Karst north of Brno near Blansko – a limestone protected landscape area of about 92 km² with around 1,100 caves and gorges, five of them open to the public; the best known are the Punkva Caves, discovered by Karel Absolon, and the 138 m deep Macocha Abyss, where the Punkva river disappears underground. In the south rise the limestone Pavlov Hills in the Pálava Protected Landscape Area (since 19 March 1976, 83 km², highest point Děvín at 550 m), a UNESCO biosphere reserve since 1986, extended in 2003 to include the Lednice–Valtice Cultural Landscape.

The character of the climbing changes with the rock: in the Moravian Karst it is overhanging and vertical limestone – Holštejn is among the hardest climbing spots in the Czech Republic, with slippery limestone in places, polished easier routes and long run-outs. Around Brno and in the Drahany Highlands sport climbing on walls and quarries dominates, in the Znojmo area along the Jevišovka, Dyje and Jihlava valleys (Jevišovice and Křižanov Uplands) trad climbing with your own gear, often in the shade, and on Pálava climbing in the Trůn and Martinka groups. Most crags lie in protected areas, so check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association and the protected-area administrations before visiting.

Part of Czech Republic, South Moravia has 2688 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 6 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route on sun, Vertical wall.

Rules

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply. New routes only with the approval of the ČHS South Moravia regional commission.

7
Evropa
Original classification V A1 Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7
Evropa
Same as Variant to Abyssinia, but then straight. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-
Evropa
From the first piton left to the second. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-
Evropa
Original classification V- A1 Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+/9-
Evropa
Directly along the edge (boulder) to the anchors. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8
Evropa
up to the summit 8 Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9
Evropa
Original classification V A2, RP T. Pilka, 1987 Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-
Evropa
Over the bolt to the anchors and via the left variant to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
11-/11
Evropa
Over the first silver bolts of Schengen to the rounded ledge, slightly left over four… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9
Evropa
Boulder from Zdenina, then traverse left along the ledge, via a little chimney/groove to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
11-/11
Evropa
Start between Zdenina and Schengen, over three bolts to the rappel anchor of… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
11-
Evropa
Start like Expanse, climbs to the rappel anchor of Schizophrenia. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Evropa
Right chimney between Europe and India. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
9-
Evropa
Start in the corner over a piton and two bolts up to Expanse, leading to the rappel… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5
Indie
Left corner in the cave between India and Europe. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
8
Indie
Directly up the wall without a crack to the right. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
?
Indie
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
9-
Indie
Technically powerful route with a final backward fall. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-
Indie
Start right of the Mouse Hole, over four bolts to the rappel anchor. Climbs only the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-
Indie
On India between India and Europe. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6+
Indie
Under the overhang to the right and up a light corner. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +5
8
Indie
Along the edge without a crack to the right. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8
Indie
Technical route. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+
Indie
Overhang Rainy cracks direct. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +4
9-/9
Indie
Above the second quickdraw, directly up the wall without using the crack edge near the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5
Indie
Original classification V A1, RP P. Süss, T. Pilka Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
9-
Indie
Endurance line without any harder sections. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9
Indie
Endurance line. Straightening of the easier No future. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
10-
Indie
Technical-power line. Be careful when clipping the third bolt. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6+
Indie
Classic line up the center of the wall via a gully. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3

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