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Climbing at South Moravia

2688 routes
6 areas
1–12 grades

South Moravia covers crags from the Drahany Highlands and the Moravian Karst through the Brno area down to the Znojmo region and Pálava on the Austrian border. The most important is the Moravian Karst north of Brno near Blansko – a limestone protected landscape area of about 92 km² with around 1,100 caves and gorges, five of them open to the public; the best known are the Punkva Caves, discovered by Karel Absolon, and the 138 m deep Macocha Abyss, where the Punkva river disappears underground. In the south rise the limestone Pavlov Hills in the Pálava Protected Landscape Area (since 19 March 1976, 83 km², highest point Děvín at 550 m), a UNESCO biosphere reserve since 1986, extended in 2003 to include the Lednice–Valtice Cultural Landscape.

The character of the climbing changes with the rock: in the Moravian Karst it is overhanging and vertical limestone – Holštejn is among the hardest climbing spots in the Czech Republic, with slippery limestone in places, polished easier routes and long run-outs. Around Brno and in the Drahany Highlands sport climbing on walls and quarries dominates, in the Znojmo area along the Jevišovka, Dyje and Jihlava valleys (Jevišovice and Křižanov Uplands) trad climbing with your own gear, often in the shade, and on Pálava climbing in the Trůn and Martinka groups. Most crags lie in protected areas, so check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association and the protected-area administrations before visiting.

Part of Czech Republic, South Moravia has 2688 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 6 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route on sun, Vertical wall.

Rules

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply. New routes only with the approval of the ČHS South Moravia regional commission.

5
Indie zezadu
Through the small corner to the ledge and over the small overhang to the abseil point. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6+
Indie zezadu
To the right of the edge, left over the edge, slab to the tree, vertical wall to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5-
Indie zezadu
Start to the right of Wooden Friend, up the pillar over 3 bolts to the fourth under the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-
Indie zezadu
Start in the middle of the depression to the right of Wooden Friend directly up over a… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-
Indie zezadu
Start left of the prominent crack, up the inclined wall over 3 bh to the wedged boulder,… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7/7+
Indie zezadu
From the third rivet of Patience to the left to the third bolt of Deportation and then… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
11-
Indie zezadu
To the left of Patience over five bolts to the rappel station of Patience. Boulder in the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
4
Evropa
Start completely on the right. Crosses Magic. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7
Indie zezadu
Overhanging crack into the slab, further along the slab, opening to a ledge and vertical…
7-
Evropa
Start from the stone and up the wall nv. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7
Evropa
Along the small edge over the overhang nv. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Evropa
To the right deviating by a fault. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7
Evropa
Between the routes Death of a Beautiful Girl and Magic. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7
Evropa
First by crack and then by wall nv. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6+
Evropa
A little to the left of the edge. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7
Evropa
First route beyond the imaginary edge. Start from below. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-
Evropa
Bouldering on a vertical slab. There are few belays, but where they should be. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5+
Evropa
Distinct notch - corner. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
7-
Evropa
Original classification V A0, RP D. Smejkal, P. Musil, 1984 Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
?
Evropa
Overhanging slab. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9
Evropa
Bouldering over poor holds and footholds. Without using the edge. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Evropa
Start via Europe and under the overhang to the left and over the belay of nv. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7
Evropa
From the front, start along the right edge to the first bolt and further along the edge… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5
Evropa
Through a broken corner to a terraced ledge. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
?
Evropa
From the steps directly over the overhanging belly. Belay from Demarcation Line can be… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route on sun +1
6-
Evropa
Original classification V A0 Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +4
6+
Evropa
From the first belay of Abyssinia directly up and to the left of the edge of nv. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+
Evropa
Up on the slab to the left. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6-
Evropa
Original classification V A0 Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6+
Evropa
Start via Abyssinia. Straight up from the distinct cave. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2

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