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Climbing at South Moravia

2688 routes
6 areas
1–12 grades

South Moravia covers crags from the Drahany Highlands and the Moravian Karst through the Brno area down to the Znojmo region and Pálava on the Austrian border. The most important is the Moravian Karst north of Brno near Blansko – a limestone protected landscape area of about 92 km² with around 1,100 caves and gorges, five of them open to the public; the best known are the Punkva Caves, discovered by Karel Absolon, and the 138 m deep Macocha Abyss, where the Punkva river disappears underground. In the south rise the limestone Pavlov Hills in the Pálava Protected Landscape Area (since 19 March 1976, 83 km², highest point Děvín at 550 m), a UNESCO biosphere reserve since 1986, extended in 2003 to include the Lednice–Valtice Cultural Landscape.

The character of the climbing changes with the rock: in the Moravian Karst it is overhanging and vertical limestone – Holštejn is among the hardest climbing spots in the Czech Republic, with slippery limestone in places, polished easier routes and long run-outs. Around Brno and in the Drahany Highlands sport climbing on walls and quarries dominates, in the Znojmo area along the Jevišovka, Dyje and Jihlava valleys (Jevišovice and Křižanov Uplands) trad climbing with your own gear, often in the shade, and on Pálava climbing in the Trůn and Martinka groups. Most crags lie in protected areas, so check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association and the protected-area administrations before visiting.

Part of Czech Republic, South Moravia has 2688 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 6 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route on sun, Vertical wall.

Rules

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply. New routes only with the approval of the ČHS South Moravia regional commission.

6+
Nad poustevnou
Rocks of the Czech Republic, Czech Mountaineering Association database. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Nad poustevnou
Start from the right.
7+
Nad poustevnou
Straightening of Corrida. Start to the left of Grand Prix (beware, protection is missing). Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +4
6
Nad poustevnou
Unprotected gradual traverse along the ramp up to the right and then directly upwards (nv… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +4
6+
Nad poustevnou
Technical wall climbing. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +4
6+
Nad poustevnou
Straightening of the classic Rodeo (from below). Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-
Nad poustevnou
Powerful boulder problem. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+
Nad poustevnou
Start from below. Climb along the edge. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9+
Nad poustevnou
Difficult, almost horizontal jump to the edge into a jug. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6+
Nad poustevnou
Technical traverse to the right behind the edge and up. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5
Za indií
Up the indistinct small corner, from the left of the overhang and left into a large… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
8
Nad poustevnou
Technical smearing on rounded features in the second half of the route. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
4
Za indií
Up the prominent right corner. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
8+/9-
Nad poustevnou
The route branches off at the second protection point and goes left over the overhang and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5+
Za indií
Under the small overhang, traverse right into a large corner and up it. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
4
Za indií
Same as 'Nejištěná' (Unsecured), but halfway turn right into a large corner and up it. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
5+
Za indií
First up the small corner, then over the small overhang and up the vertical wall. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5
Za indií
Through broken terrain under the small overhang, then to the right around the corner,… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
5
Za indií
Up the slanting corner and halfway through it, turn right over the edge to the abseil… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Za indií
Third route from the left in the massif behind India, start under the small overhang to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+
Za indií
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5+
Za indií
Up the prominent wide crack to the right to the abseil point. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7+
Za indií
Start to the right of the 'Cesta pro metrouše' (Route for Metro-dwellers), up the slab… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5
Indie zezadu
From the first original right and over bh up to the abseil point. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
4
Indie zezadu
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Route in shadow +1
4
Za indií
Up the slanting corner to the right of the slab. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +4
5+
Za indií
Up the slab to the abseil point. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
?
Indie zezadu
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5
Indie zezadu
Through the small corner to the ledge and over the small overhang to the abseil point. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5
Indie zezadu
Through the corner under the overhang, right and via the small overhang to the abseil… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3

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