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Climbing at South Moravia

2688 routes
6 areas
1–12 grades

South Moravia covers crags from the Drahany Highlands and the Moravian Karst through the Brno area down to the Znojmo region and Pálava on the Austrian border. The most important is the Moravian Karst north of Brno near Blansko – a limestone protected landscape area of about 92 km² with around 1,100 caves and gorges, five of them open to the public; the best known are the Punkva Caves, discovered by Karel Absolon, and the 138 m deep Macocha Abyss, where the Punkva river disappears underground. In the south rise the limestone Pavlov Hills in the Pálava Protected Landscape Area (since 19 March 1976, 83 km², highest point Děvín at 550 m), a UNESCO biosphere reserve since 1986, extended in 2003 to include the Lednice–Valtice Cultural Landscape.

The character of the climbing changes with the rock: in the Moravian Karst it is overhanging and vertical limestone – Holštejn is among the hardest climbing spots in the Czech Republic, with slippery limestone in places, polished easier routes and long run-outs. Around Brno and in the Drahany Highlands sport climbing on walls and quarries dominates, in the Znojmo area along the Jevišovka, Dyje and Jihlava valleys (Jevišovice and Křižanov Uplands) trad climbing with your own gear, often in the shade, and on Pálava climbing in the Trůn and Martinka groups. Most crags lie in protected areas, so check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association and the protected-area administrations before visiting.

Part of Czech Republic, South Moravia has 2688 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 6 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route on sun, Vertical wall.

Rules

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply. New routes only with the approval of the ČHS South Moravia regional commission.

3
Hladká
Start directly below the rightmost bolt, then slightly left from it. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
3
Hladká
Through a fault in the wall in the right part. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Route on sun +2
5-
U kříže
Through the slab completely to the right. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6-
Hladká
Directly to the first bolt and further (new variation). Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5+
Hladká
In an arc slightly from the right to the first bolt. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7
Hladká
Through the middle of the vertical small wall on poor rounded holds. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5
Hladká
In the left part of the wall. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5+
U kříže
Through the slab and corners (new variation). Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5
U kříže
To the right of the small corner. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Route on sun +1
6
U kříže
Through the corner and from the right of the overhang. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6-
U kříže
Start left of the original, and above the first bolt, both routes merge. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5-
U kříže
Directly along the edge without stepping off to the left. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5
U kříže
First from the left, over the slab to the right under the overhang and then like 'čuňárna… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5-
U kříže
Through the prominent right corner in the left part of the wall. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7
U kříže
Directly left of 'čuňárna' (Pigsty) through the overhang. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
U kříže
Without stepping off to the opposite wall. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5-
U kříže
Through the corner to the left of the Left Corner. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Route on sun +1
5+
U kříže
Without stepping off to the opposite wall. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5
Bayerova skála
To the right of the roof-like overhang. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +2
4
Bayerova skála
To the right of the overgrown chimney. Along the small pillar to the shelf and left into… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +2
11-
Bayerova skála
Through the roof via one-finger pockets to the smooth wall and to the anchor. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
4
Bayerova skála
Upwards via the overgrown chimney. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +2
4
Bayerova skála
Via the overhanging small corner to the left of the roof-like overhang. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +2
9+
Bayerova skála
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9-/9
Bayerova skála
To the right of Condor's Span into the common rappel station. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9+
Bayerova skála
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9-/9
Bayerova skála
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5
Bayerova skála
Along the edge into the crack and then diagonally left onto the balcony. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6+
Bayerova skála
From the first protection of the route, along the edge via one bolt up onto the shelf. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+
Bayerova skála
Directly upwards along the slabby edge. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2

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