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Climbing at South Moravia

2688 routes
6 areas
1–12 grades

South Moravia covers crags from the Drahany Highlands and the Moravian Karst through the Brno area down to the Znojmo region and Pálava on the Austrian border. The most important is the Moravian Karst north of Brno near Blansko – a limestone protected landscape area of about 92 km² with around 1,100 caves and gorges, five of them open to the public; the best known are the Punkva Caves, discovered by Karel Absolon, and the 138 m deep Macocha Abyss, where the Punkva river disappears underground. In the south rise the limestone Pavlov Hills in the Pálava Protected Landscape Area (since 19 March 1976, 83 km², highest point Děvín at 550 m), a UNESCO biosphere reserve since 1986, extended in 2003 to include the Lednice–Valtice Cultural Landscape.

The character of the climbing changes with the rock: in the Moravian Karst it is overhanging and vertical limestone – Holštejn is among the hardest climbing spots in the Czech Republic, with slippery limestone in places, polished easier routes and long run-outs. Around Brno and in the Drahany Highlands sport climbing on walls and quarries dominates, in the Znojmo area along the Jevišovka, Dyje and Jihlava valleys (Jevišovice and Křižanov Uplands) trad climbing with your own gear, often in the shade, and on Pálava climbing in the Trůn and Martinka groups. Most crags lie in protected areas, so check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association and the protected-area administrations before visiting.

Part of Czech Republic, South Moravia has 2688 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 6 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route on sun, Vertical wall.

Rules

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply. New routes only with the approval of the ČHS South Moravia regional commission.

5
Bayerova skála
5 m to the left of the main wall. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Route in shadow +1
6
Bayerova skála
By a thin crack to the left of the Bouldr route (yellow number one on the rock). Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Route in shadow +2
7
Bayerova skála
By an overhanging edge. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Route in shadow
4
Bayerova skála
By a distinctive gully to the left of the Bouldr route (yellow number one on the rock). Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route in shadow +1
5-
Bayerova skála
On the wall 5 m to the left of the main wall. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Route in shadow +1
?
Skály u fabriky
Rocks of the Czech Republic, Czech Mountaineering Federation database. Fixed belay
8+
Bayerova skála
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Route in shadow
7
Bayerova skála
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Route in shadow
?
Skály u fabriky
Rocks of the Czech Republic, ČHS database.
?
Skály u fabriky
Rocks of the Czech Republic, ČHS database.
?
Skály u fabriky
Rocks of the Czech Republic, ČHS database.
?
Skály u fabriky
Rocks of the Czech Republic, ČHS database.
4+
Punk rock
Along the right edge to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
?
Skály u fabriky
Rocks of the Czech Republic, ČHS database.
?
Skály u fabriky
Rocks of the Czech Republic, ČHS database.
?
Skály u fabriky
Rocks of the Czech Republic, ČHS database.
7+
Punk rock
Through the middle of the smooth slab over 2 bolts. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5+
Punk rock
From the left of the left edge to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6/6+
Punk rock
Along the right edge of the slab to the top (2 bolts on the left are clipped). Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6+
Punk rock
Along the left edge (from the bottom) to the top. Variant from left of the edge 5+ Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
8-
Punk rock
Traverse the wall to the edge (without stepping behind the edge) and along the edge over… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
3
Punk rock
Through the middle of the pillar (2 bolts) to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
4
Punk rock
Right part of the small wall (2 bolts) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Punk rock
Behind the edge on a slab (bolt) and over the overhang (2 bolts) to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Punk rock
Left part of the small wall (bolt) to the summit (bolt). Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
7
Punk rock
Through the middle of the valley wall directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow
6
Punk rock
Along the edge and through the middle of the side wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow
5
Punk rock
Approach same as Vertigo via two bolts, then directly up along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow
6
Punk rock
Along the right valley edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow
3
Nad zrcadlem
Friendy no. 1–3 Rock Climbing Route in shadow

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