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Climbing at South Moravia

2688 routes
6 areas
1–12 grades

South Moravia covers crags from the Drahany Highlands and the Moravian Karst through the Brno area down to the Znojmo region and Pálava on the Austrian border. The most important is the Moravian Karst north of Brno near Blansko – a limestone protected landscape area of about 92 km² with around 1,100 caves and gorges, five of them open to the public; the best known are the Punkva Caves, discovered by Karel Absolon, and the 138 m deep Macocha Abyss, where the Punkva river disappears underground. In the south rise the limestone Pavlov Hills in the Pálava Protected Landscape Area (since 19 March 1976, 83 km², highest point Děvín at 550 m), a UNESCO biosphere reserve since 1986, extended in 2003 to include the Lednice–Valtice Cultural Landscape.

The character of the climbing changes with the rock: in the Moravian Karst it is overhanging and vertical limestone – Holštejn is among the hardest climbing spots in the Czech Republic, with slippery limestone in places, polished easier routes and long run-outs. Around Brno and in the Drahany Highlands sport climbing on walls and quarries dominates, in the Znojmo area along the Jevišovka, Dyje and Jihlava valleys (Jevišovice and Křižanov Uplands) trad climbing with your own gear, often in the shade, and on Pálava climbing in the Trůn and Martinka groups. Most crags lie in protected areas, so check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association and the protected-area administrations before visiting.

Part of Czech Republic, South Moravia has 2688 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 6 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route on sun, Vertical wall.

Rules

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply. New routes only with the approval of the ČHS South Moravia regional commission.

3
Sektor D
Through the passage between the pillars under the crack and then up the crack to the top. Rock Climbing
3+
Sektor D
Up the wall from the right to the pillar by the tree and up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Sektor D
Over the overhang and up the wall (3 bolts) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Sektor C
In the left part of the wall along the edge (bolt) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Sektor C
Over the overhang (bolt) into easier terrain and then to the top. DANGER OF BLOCK… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Sektor D
Up the narrow overhanging wall to the pillar and by the Asterix route to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Sektor D
Up the right wall to the pillar, traverse and directly up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Sektor C
Same as 'Puklý démon' (broken demon) (bolt) and further along the wall slightly to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Sektor C
Through the middle of the wall (2 bolts) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Sektor C
Directly up the right smooth wall without stepping right into the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Sektor C
Through the crack in the right part of the wall (2 bolts) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Sektor C
From the left, from the elevated fore-rock, traverse the wall through holes to the right… Rock Climbing
7
Sektor C
From the ledge on the overhanging edge by jumping (without fore-rock) into the edge and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7+
Sektor C
From the ledge on the overhanging edge by jumping (without fore-rock) into the edge and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Sektor C
Through the chimney or over steps to the pillar and through the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Sektor C
From the fore-rock to the right edge (2 bolts) and over the overhang along the edge to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Sektor B
Directly up the wall (3 bolts) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Sektor B
From the hole, traverse the overhang over the block (bolt) to the pillar and up the wall … Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Sektor B
Through the corner and crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Sektor B
Left part of the pillar (bolt), later middle and left wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Sektor B
Along the right valley edge from the left to the pillar and along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Sektor B
Over the steps in the right part and via the corner crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Sektor A
Along the left (bolt) overhanging edge and directly up the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Sektor B
Middle of the wall (2 bolts) and further right through the corner (bolt) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7+
Sektor A
From the belay (bolt) along the right edge to the summit. Without stepping right onto the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Tříletá
Start right of the Sloní paměť route, up the structured wall over the first bolt to the… Rock Climbing
7-
Tříletá
Start right of the Boží ruka route, through a shallow corner over the first bolt into the… Rock Climbing
7-
Tříletá
Start in the middle of the overhanging wall to the right of the Historická route.… Rock Climbing
3
Tříletá
Start right of the Noční Rallye route, through a crack to a ledge, from the ledge to the… Rock Climbing
7-
Tříletá
Start right of the Pomatení mysli route, up the pillar over the first bolt, up the wall… Rock Climbing

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