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Climbing at South Moravia

2688 routes
6 areas
1–12 grades

South Moravia covers crags from the Drahany Highlands and the Moravian Karst through the Brno area down to the Znojmo region and Pálava on the Austrian border. The most important is the Moravian Karst north of Brno near Blansko – a limestone protected landscape area of about 92 km² with around 1,100 caves and gorges, five of them open to the public; the best known are the Punkva Caves, discovered by Karel Absolon, and the 138 m deep Macocha Abyss, where the Punkva river disappears underground. In the south rise the limestone Pavlov Hills in the Pálava Protected Landscape Area (since 19 March 1976, 83 km², highest point Děvín at 550 m), a UNESCO biosphere reserve since 1986, extended in 2003 to include the Lednice–Valtice Cultural Landscape.

The character of the climbing changes with the rock: in the Moravian Karst it is overhanging and vertical limestone – Holštejn is among the hardest climbing spots in the Czech Republic, with slippery limestone in places, polished easier routes and long run-outs. Around Brno and in the Drahany Highlands sport climbing on walls and quarries dominates, in the Znojmo area along the Jevišovka, Dyje and Jihlava valleys (Jevišovice and Křižanov Uplands) trad climbing with your own gear, often in the shade, and on Pálava climbing in the Trůn and Martinka groups. Most crags lie in protected areas, so check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association and the protected-area administrations before visiting.

Part of Czech Republic, South Moravia has 2688 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 6 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route on sun, Vertical wall.

Rules

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply. New routes only with the approval of the ČHS South Moravia regional commission.

8-
Martinka
From station M directly into the grassy hollow. Left (U-bolt) and up the crack over the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +4
7+
Martinka
Same as route No. 28 into the grassy hollow. From there, right onto the small pillar and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +4
5-
Martinka
From station M, through a partly interrupted crack below a small overhang. From there,…
4
Martinka
Like No. 37 directly up into the grassy hollow. From there, left to the large U-bolt.… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +3
6
Martinka
From station K through the hollow with delicate holds to the piton and using small… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +5
4
Martinka
From station I, traverse 10 meters along the ledge into a hollow, which above the plateau…
5+
Martinka
From station K, step onto the small pillar to the right. Along it to the piton. Now go… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
5
Martinka
Along the ledge like No. 23 to the piton into the hollow. Step over the edge and further… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +5
5-
Martinka
From station J below the Pytlík's Corner route (Shortcut), traverse past two hourglasses… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
5
Martinka
From the small cave (station G) through the corner, later a chimney with a wedged boulder…
7
Martinka
Start like Hodinková (Right Ypsilon). Up an indistinct crack leading next to the chimney… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5
Martinka
Directly up from the crack. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +6
4
Martinka
From the belay of the Beetles and Vendeta route directly over the cave overhang for about… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
4
Martinka
The path leads through a diagonal, interrupted crack emerging from the second small cave… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-
Martinka
Behind station I to a small chipped tower, slightly right upwards (with stoppers) all the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
6
Martinka
From station I up to two pitons. From there, slightly right to the plateau (station F).… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +4
4
Martinka
From station A directly up a brittle recess to the piton. From there step over the edge… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
4+
Martinka
From station A similar to route Mikulovecká I., traverse 5 m left and over a small…
?
Martinka
Start below the second small cave, to the right of the Jackdaw Cave. Up slightly left …
4
Martinka
Directly from the belay of the Colossal Pig Route through the small cave to the summit. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
4+
Martinka
By the corner to the right of the slab.
3
Martinka
Start on a large boulder roughly in the middle of the wall. Directly up the wall to where… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Route in shadow +1
4
Martinka
Start in the overhang between the Center and Corner of the slab into the crack, down to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
3
Martinka
To station A below the Jackdaw Cave, either directly in the fall line or along the grassy…
5
Martinka
In the fall line of the edge over the overhang. Up to two small overhangs. Over them and…
7
Martinka
Between the routes Via rozesráta and Hrana plotny (Edge of the slab). Climbs from the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +3
4-
Martinka
Center of the slab about 4 m to the first piton. From there right into the crack (2nd…
5-
Martinka
To the right of the edge and along it upwards. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +3
5+
Martinka
Up the wall to the left of the edge to the piton, from which traverse right and No. 10 to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6-
Martinka
Left wall, then diagonally right to the platform (station L). Edge of the slab. Original… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +3

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