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Climbing at South Moravia

2688 routes
6 areas
1–12 grades

South Moravia covers crags from the Drahany Highlands and the Moravian Karst through the Brno area down to the Znojmo region and Pálava on the Austrian border. The most important is the Moravian Karst north of Brno near Blansko – a limestone protected landscape area of about 92 km² with around 1,100 caves and gorges, five of them open to the public; the best known are the Punkva Caves, discovered by Karel Absolon, and the 138 m deep Macocha Abyss, where the Punkva river disappears underground. In the south rise the limestone Pavlov Hills in the Pálava Protected Landscape Area (since 19 March 1976, 83 km², highest point Děvín at 550 m), a UNESCO biosphere reserve since 1986, extended in 2003 to include the Lednice–Valtice Cultural Landscape.

The character of the climbing changes with the rock: in the Moravian Karst it is overhanging and vertical limestone – Holštejn is among the hardest climbing spots in the Czech Republic, with slippery limestone in places, polished easier routes and long run-outs. Around Brno and in the Drahany Highlands sport climbing on walls and quarries dominates, in the Znojmo area along the Jevišovka, Dyje and Jihlava valleys (Jevišovice and Křižanov Uplands) trad climbing with your own gear, often in the shade, and on Pálava climbing in the Trůn and Martinka groups. Most crags lie in protected areas, so check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association and the protected-area administrations before visiting.

Part of Czech Republic, South Moravia has 2688 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 6 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route on sun, Vertical wall.

Rules

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply. New routes only with the approval of the ČHS South Moravia regional commission.

8-
Obří kámen
Access in the large black overhang. Spreading into two-thirds of it, step onto the edge… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5
Obří kámen
Through the middle of the wall above the overhang (bolt hanger). Through the middle of… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
10-
Obří kámen
Through the left overhang. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5+
Obří kámen
Up the indistinct gully to the summit. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
5-
Obří kámen
Access from the stone near the northeast edge. Up to the piton and bolt. Further along… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
4+
Obří kámen
Access to the right of Májová, right next to a lying stone. Directly up to the 1st piton.… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
5
Obří kámen
To the right of Narovnaná Májová. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
4
Obří kámen
Access in the fall line of the left edge of Špunt. Continuously upwards (ring, piton) and… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
4+
Obří kámen
Through a sometimes grassy, indistinct wall. Through a sometimes grassy, indistinct wall. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
3
Obří kámen
In the center of the Obří kámen (Giant Stone) wall, first slightly left, then right … Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
4+
Obří kámen
Directly upwards to the first piton (possibility of easier access from the right).… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
2
Martinka
To the right of Komín hrdinů (Heroes' Chimney) is a wide, grassy gully, which at the top… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
6
Martinka
Up the wall in the descent gully. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
2
Obří kámen
Easy ascent along the SW edge. Suitable for descent. Easy ascent along the SW edge.… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
5
Martinka
Up the wall in the descent gully. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
7
Martinka
Access from the second ascent of Kočičí lávky (Catwalks) near the ring (stand P). From… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
?
Martinka
From Kočičí lávky (Catwalks) over the yellow overhang into a crack with several bushes.… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
3
Martinka
On the right side of Martinka, there is a distinctive chimney with bushes, through which… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
8+
Martinka
The route is in the passage between Martinka and the Giant Stone, furthest to the right… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +3
4+
Martinka
Start at the triangular boulder at the edge of Giant Stone. Into the hollow (missing… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
5+
Martinka
In the right part of Martinka, there are distinctive stepped footbridges leading towards… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +6
?
Martinka
Start left of the distinctive triangular buttress. Straight up to station K. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
4+
Martinka
Descend via Špunt almost to the level of Cat's Ledges in the Martinka face. Overhang … Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +4
7
Martinka
From station N along a distinctive smooth ledge leading right upwards into broken terrain… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +5
?
Martinka
From station N up like No. 34 over two 'eggs' and via the black overhang to the summit. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
8
Martinka
From the station below Mowgli's Ledge diagonally right and then straight up over Mowgli's… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
4+
Martinka
From the hollow (station N) via the upper (right) crack. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
5
Martinka
From station M, via route No. 23 to the rivet and directly up to the ridge. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
5
Martinka
First via route No. 33 almost to the level of the 1st 'egg'. Into it and over two more …
7+
Martinka
From halfway up Karolkov's Corner diagonally right upwards. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +5

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