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Climbing at South Moravia

2688 routes
6 areas
1–12 grades

South Moravia covers crags from the Drahany Highlands and the Moravian Karst through the Brno area down to the Znojmo region and Pálava on the Austrian border. The most important is the Moravian Karst north of Brno near Blansko – a limestone protected landscape area of about 92 km² with around 1,100 caves and gorges, five of them open to the public; the best known are the Punkva Caves, discovered by Karel Absolon, and the 138 m deep Macocha Abyss, where the Punkva river disappears underground. In the south rise the limestone Pavlov Hills in the Pálava Protected Landscape Area (since 19 March 1976, 83 km², highest point Děvín at 550 m), a UNESCO biosphere reserve since 1986, extended in 2003 to include the Lednice–Valtice Cultural Landscape.

The character of the climbing changes with the rock: in the Moravian Karst it is overhanging and vertical limestone – Holštejn is among the hardest climbing spots in the Czech Republic, with slippery limestone in places, polished easier routes and long run-outs. Around Brno and in the Drahany Highlands sport climbing on walls and quarries dominates, in the Znojmo area along the Jevišovka, Dyje and Jihlava valleys (Jevišovice and Křižanov Uplands) trad climbing with your own gear, often in the shade, and on Pálava climbing in the Trůn and Martinka groups. Most crags lie in protected areas, so check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association and the protected-area administrations before visiting.

Part of Czech Republic, South Moravia has 2688 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 6 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route on sun, Vertical wall.

Rules

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply. New routes only with the approval of the ČHS South Moravia regional commission.

8+
Slza a podhradí
Third route to the right of the central pillar. Technical vertical wall. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
3
Slza a podhradí
Along the right edge of the massif. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8-
Slza a podhradí
Second route to the right of the central pillar. Technical vertical wall. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9-
Slza a podhradí
Start on the wall to the left of Wasp Swarm towards the 1st bolt, and then along the edge… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8/8+
Slza a podhradí
First route to the right of the central pillar. Technical vertical wall. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
4
Slza a podhradí
Chimney to the right of the central pillar. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +5
7
Slza a podhradí
Right route on the central pillar. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
4+
Slza a podhradí
Corner between the left wall and the pillar. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +6
4
Slza a podhradí
Along the prominent left edge. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route on sun +2
5
Slza a podhradí
In the right part of the vertical small wall. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +2
6-
Slza a podhradí
Over the overhang to the left of the corner. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5
Slza a podhradí
Through the overhanging crack to the right of the tree. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
5+
Slza a podhradí
Through the middle of the vertical small wall. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route on sun +1
3
Wilsonova skála
From the balcony on the approach traverse via a prominent lichen-covered pillar. Rock Climbing
5
Wilsonova skála
Up the gully/couloir to below the summit overhang and over it to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Wilsonova skála
Up the slab directly over the overhangs to a small balcony under the overhang (belay). It… Rock Climbing
5
Wilsonova skála
Up the small wall continuously diagonally upwards to the belay under the overhang. Then… Rock Climbing
4
Wilsonova skála
Along an indistinct pillar directly upwards to the belay under the overhang on the… Rock Climbing
4
Wilsonova skála
From the right edge of the plateau slightly diagonally to the right, about 10m via a less… Rock Climbing
6
Wilsonova skála
From the plateau directly upwards (just right of the Edge) to the upper traverse, from… Rock Climbing
5
Wilsonova skála
Approach from the left part of the platform (often just below the water level) to the… Rock Climbing
5
Wilsonova skála
Middle of the vertical wall up to the ledge in the upper part of the wall. Further same… Rock Climbing
4
Wilsonova skála
Approach by traverse from the right or by rappelling into the chimney, right wall of the… Rock Climbing
5
Wilsonova skála
Completely to the left in the W wall, there is a chimney that we follow all the way to… Rock Climbing
5+
Obrova noha
Wall to the right of Pig's Ear (bolt), over the small overhang (bolt) and recess up. to. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Bivak
Chimney up. to. Rock Climbing
4
Bivak
Middle of the wall to the right of the edge (bolt) up. to. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-
Bivak
Wall (bolt) and edge under the overhang. Over it along the edge (two bolts) up. to. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Bivak
Rock Climbing
6
Bivak
Smooth wall (bolt) under the overhang and directly (2 rings) over it. Crack (2 bolts) up.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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