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Climbing at South Moravia

2688 routes
6 areas
1–12 grades

South Moravia covers crags from the Drahany Highlands and the Moravian Karst through the Brno area down to the Znojmo region and Pálava on the Austrian border. The most important is the Moravian Karst north of Brno near Blansko – a limestone protected landscape area of about 92 km² with around 1,100 caves and gorges, five of them open to the public; the best known are the Punkva Caves, discovered by Karel Absolon, and the 138 m deep Macocha Abyss, where the Punkva river disappears underground. In the south rise the limestone Pavlov Hills in the Pálava Protected Landscape Area (since 19 March 1976, 83 km², highest point Děvín at 550 m), a UNESCO biosphere reserve since 1986, extended in 2003 to include the Lednice–Valtice Cultural Landscape.

The character of the climbing changes with the rock: in the Moravian Karst it is overhanging and vertical limestone – Holštejn is among the hardest climbing spots in the Czech Republic, with slippery limestone in places, polished easier routes and long run-outs. Around Brno and in the Drahany Highlands sport climbing on walls and quarries dominates, in the Znojmo area along the Jevišovka, Dyje and Jihlava valleys (Jevišovice and Křižanov Uplands) trad climbing with your own gear, often in the shade, and on Pálava climbing in the Trůn and Martinka groups. Most crags lie in protected areas, so check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association and the protected-area administrations before visiting.

Part of Czech Republic, South Moravia has 2688 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 6 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route on sun, Vertical wall.

Rules

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply. New routes only with the approval of the ČHS South Moravia regional commission.

3
Hrad
Through an easy corner to the balcony to the belay. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +3
4
Hrad
Short vertical slab to the left of the corner. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +2
5
Hrad
Right of the corner, up the wall below the edge and right to the belay.
7+
Hrad
Start up the pillar and over the hole and boulder into the corner. From the left along…
9-
Hrad
Up the Erect Branch to the third protection and right into the King and up it. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9/9+
Hrad
From the hole (formerly a branch) straight up and then slightly left. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-
Hrad
Original classification, IV A2
9-/9
Hrad
Original classification V A2, RP P. Fiala
10-
Hrad
Original classification V A1, RP A. Ondra, 2005 Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+/9-
Hrad
Start into the hole (formerly a branch), from there traverse left and upwards.
9-
Hrad
Start directly below the large side crack. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9+/10-
Hrad
Note: It is also possible to climb the combination Erect Branch Rose King 9+ Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
10
Hrad
To the left of Provocation over three bolts and slightly to the left to the anchor. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
11-/11
Hrad
From the belays in Provocation over three bolts straight up. Interesting three-move… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
11
Hrad
11 Route type: rock Sector: Castle Massif Start as Foreign Discovery, slightly to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Vertical wall
10-
Hrad
RP T. Pilka Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6+
Hrad
Second line of protection from the left. Over the overhang to the anchor. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Hrad
Completely to the left of the sector, via a vertical and then slabby wall to the right to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7
Hrad
Starting boulder to the bolt and straight to the anchor. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6-
Hrad
Starting slippery boulder to the bolt and up the corner. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +4
8+/9-
Hrad
To the right of Jiroušek's route, up the wall past the bolt and along the edge to the…
6
Slza a podhradí
Slab to the left of the corner. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5
Slza a podhradí
Through the corner. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +4
5+
Slza a podhradí
Slab to the left of the corner. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8+
Slza a podhradí
By a short, slightly overhanging wall using silhouetted holds. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+
Slza a podhradí
By a short vertical wall using poor holds. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
3-
Slza a podhradí
To the right of the edge over the rock steps. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7
Slza a podhradí
By a short vertical wall. Slightly to the left. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
3
Slza a podhradí
By a short slab to the right of the edge. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route on sun +1
8+
Slza a podhradí
Third route to the right of the central pillar. Technical vertical wall. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2

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