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Climbing at South Moravia

2688 routes
6 areas
1–12 grades

South Moravia covers crags from the Drahany Highlands and the Moravian Karst through the Brno area down to the Znojmo region and Pálava on the Austrian border. The most important is the Moravian Karst north of Brno near Blansko – a limestone protected landscape area of about 92 km² with around 1,100 caves and gorges, five of them open to the public; the best known are the Punkva Caves, discovered by Karel Absolon, and the 138 m deep Macocha Abyss, where the Punkva river disappears underground. In the south rise the limestone Pavlov Hills in the Pálava Protected Landscape Area (since 19 March 1976, 83 km², highest point Děvín at 550 m), a UNESCO biosphere reserve since 1986, extended in 2003 to include the Lednice–Valtice Cultural Landscape.

The character of the climbing changes with the rock: in the Moravian Karst it is overhanging and vertical limestone – Holštejn is among the hardest climbing spots in the Czech Republic, with slippery limestone in places, polished easier routes and long run-outs. Around Brno and in the Drahany Highlands sport climbing on walls and quarries dominates, in the Znojmo area along the Jevišovka, Dyje and Jihlava valleys (Jevišovice and Křižanov Uplands) trad climbing with your own gear, often in the shade, and on Pálava climbing in the Trůn and Martinka groups. Most crags lie in protected areas, so check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association and the protected-area administrations before visiting.

Part of Czech Republic, South Moravia has 2688 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 6 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route on sun, Vertical wall.

Rules

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply. New routes only with the approval of the ČHS South Moravia regional commission.

6
Stěna nad propadáním
First route from the left. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Route in shadow
6+
Hrad
To the right of the rock window, along a small pillar. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5+
Hrad
Start to the right of the "small cave" and straight up. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5
Hrad
Traverse diagonally right on a smooth wall. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5
Hrad
To the right of the summit corner, a smooth wall. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +4
6-
Hrad
Direct ascent of Cíchy via a wall. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5+
Hrad
Start on a vertical wall to the window and from there over a small overhang to the belay. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
9+/10-
Hrad
Original classification III A2 RP R. Souček, 1996 Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
?
Hrad
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5+
Hrad
To the right of the smooth overhang, via a notch and crack to the balcony, and then… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +4
5+
Hrad
To the right of the smooth overhang, via a notch and crack to the balcony, over the small…
5
Hrad
To the left of the Short route. Rock Climbing
4
Hrad
To the right of the Edge, a short wall. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +2
9
Hrad
Start from the left, slight traverse to the right and overhanging to the balcony. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Hrad
Original classification V A2 Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9+
Hrad
Original classification V A1, RP T. Pilka 1987 Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
4
Hrad
Along the right edge to the belay. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8
Hrad
Without starting stones.
6
Hrad
Up a small feature to the balcony and left behind the edge. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Hrad
Over the initial boulder problem to the balcony and over the overhang to the belay.
8-
Hrad
Up the slab into a distinct corner, over the overhang to the left and to the belay.
9+/10-
Hrad
Bouldering on poorly stratified holds directly up to the rappel anchor Vosol sobě. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8
Hrad
Start like Clear Lever, but continue through the corner up to below the overhang,… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-
Hrad
To the right of Sleeping Beauty.
9-
Hrad
Up the slab to the second protection, boulder move into the large side crack and along… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-
Hrad
Up the vertical wall on slippery edges to the belay.
9-
Hrad
Upper slab from the right around the protection. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8
Hrad
Original classification, V+A1 Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9-
Hrad
To the left of Sleeping Beauty. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
4
Hrad
Short vertical slab to the left of the corner. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +2

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