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Climbing at South Moravia

2688 routes
6 areas
1–12 grades

South Moravia covers crags from the Drahany Highlands and the Moravian Karst through the Brno area down to the Znojmo region and Pálava on the Austrian border. The most important is the Moravian Karst north of Brno near Blansko – a limestone protected landscape area of about 92 km² with around 1,100 caves and gorges, five of them open to the public; the best known are the Punkva Caves, discovered by Karel Absolon, and the 138 m deep Macocha Abyss, where the Punkva river disappears underground. In the south rise the limestone Pavlov Hills in the Pálava Protected Landscape Area (since 19 March 1976, 83 km², highest point Děvín at 550 m), a UNESCO biosphere reserve since 1986, extended in 2003 to include the Lednice–Valtice Cultural Landscape.

The character of the climbing changes with the rock: in the Moravian Karst it is overhanging and vertical limestone – Holštejn is among the hardest climbing spots in the Czech Republic, with slippery limestone in places, polished easier routes and long run-outs. Around Brno and in the Drahany Highlands sport climbing on walls and quarries dominates, in the Znojmo area along the Jevišovka, Dyje and Jihlava valleys (Jevišovice and Křižanov Uplands) trad climbing with your own gear, often in the shade, and on Pálava climbing in the Trůn and Martinka groups. Most crags lie in protected areas, so check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association and the protected-area administrations before visiting.

Part of Czech Republic, South Moravia has 2688 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 6 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route on sun, Vertical wall.

Rules

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply. New routes only with the approval of the ČHS South Moravia regional commission.

6+
Bivak
Crack (bolt) under the overhang, over it by an overhanging crack (ring) and slab up. to. … Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Bivak
Smooth wall (bolt) under the overhang and directly (2 rings) over it. Crack (2 bolts) up.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8-
Bivak
Wall under the overhang (2 bolts). Over the smooth roof (2 bolts) and another overhang up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Overhang
3
Bivak
Corner under the overhang. Rock Climbing
7+
Bivak
Rock Climbing
6+
Bivak
Along the edge to the pre-summit. Rock Climbing
7+
Bivak
By a short slab (rivet) to the summit (n.t.). Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Vosička
By a crack in the corner. Rock Climbing
7-
Vosička
Middle of the wall behind the right edge to the summit (n.t.). Rock Climbing
6-
Vosička
From the right over the overhang to the edge (rivet), along it (rivet) and 'sokolíky' … Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Vosička
Direct ascent over the overhang into the slab (rivet) and up it (rivet). Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Vosička
By a wide crack in the middle of the wall (2 pitons, 2 rings) to the summit (n.t.). Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
6
Vosička
Ascent to the right of the Wasp Crack (rivet), then slightly right to a ledge (rivet) and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Obří kámen
Diagonally left onto the ledge, then right along the crack to its end. Here, step right… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
3
Obří kámen
To the left of the Normálka route along the edge. Straight up the gully to the summit. To… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
6
Vosička
Over the overhang (rivet) to the summit (n.t.). Rock Climbing Fixed belay Overhang
6
Vosička
Along the edge (3 pitons), then a crack in the wall (rivet) and over the overhang (ring)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Obří kámen
To the right behind the edge. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
9-
Obří kámen
along the prominent right edge. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+
Obří kámen
Ascent in the overhanging corner. Through the corner to an indistinct ledge. From the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-
Obří kámen
Diagonally left onto the ledge, to the first bolt. From there up to the 'hodinky' (piton… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
8+
Obří kámen
From Svišťova's variant, after three meters, diagonally right and via Alpha n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+
Obří kámen
Direct ascent of the Shortcut Variant. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+
Obří kámen
Above the overhangs, diagonally to the right. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
10-
Obří kámen
Ascent two meters to the right of the path Žárlivá, straight up. Rock Climbing
9+/10-
Obří kámen
Overhang between variant of access c. Alternatingly cloudy and route Mocek. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+
Obří kámen
Access five meters to the right of the edge of the black overhang. First upwards (piton… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8
Obří kámen
Immediately right of the black overhang, up onto the sloping slab. Immediately right of… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+
Obří kámen
Over the overhang and then right along the wall. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Obří kámen
Access in the middle of the side wall. Diagonally upwards onto the slab with a piton.… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3

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