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Climbing at South Moravia

2688 routes
6 areas
1–12 grades

South Moravia covers crags from the Drahany Highlands and the Moravian Karst through the Brno area down to the Znojmo region and Pálava on the Austrian border. The most important is the Moravian Karst north of Brno near Blansko – a limestone protected landscape area of about 92 km² with around 1,100 caves and gorges, five of them open to the public; the best known are the Punkva Caves, discovered by Karel Absolon, and the 138 m deep Macocha Abyss, where the Punkva river disappears underground. In the south rise the limestone Pavlov Hills in the Pálava Protected Landscape Area (since 19 March 1976, 83 km², highest point Děvín at 550 m), a UNESCO biosphere reserve since 1986, extended in 2003 to include the Lednice–Valtice Cultural Landscape.

The character of the climbing changes with the rock: in the Moravian Karst it is overhanging and vertical limestone – Holštejn is among the hardest climbing spots in the Czech Republic, with slippery limestone in places, polished easier routes and long run-outs. Around Brno and in the Drahany Highlands sport climbing on walls and quarries dominates, in the Znojmo area along the Jevišovka, Dyje and Jihlava valleys (Jevišovice and Křižanov Uplands) trad climbing with your own gear, often in the shade, and on Pálava climbing in the Trůn and Martinka groups. Most crags lie in protected areas, so check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association and the protected-area administrations before visiting.

Part of Czech Republic, South Moravia has 2688 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 6 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route on sun, Vertical wall.

Rules

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply. New routes only with the approval of the ČHS South Moravia regional commission.

9-
Nad holštejnskou jeskyní
From the belay in the middle of the wall, a line of bolts extending all the way to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6+
Nad holštejnskou jeskyní
Short route to the right of the memorial plaques (left one). Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+
Nad holštejnskou jeskyní
Through the middle of the vertical wall. Endurance on crimps. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9-/9
Nad holštejnskou jeskyní
Via the route Aerodrom (Aerodrome) to the fourth bolt. From there, from the right, up via… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9/9+
Nad holštejnskou jeskyní
Via the route Nejdelší den (Longest Day) to the penultimate bolt and right via Aerodrom … Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+/9-
Nad holštejnskou jeskyní
To the left of Aerodrom (Aerodrome), through the middle of the slightly overhanging wall. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6+
Nad holštejnskou jeskyní
Start left of the memorial plaques, continuously up the corner. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +6
8
Nad holštejnskou jeskyní
Start left of Nejdelší den (Longest Day), up the wall via 3 bolts to the edge, then… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7
Nad holštejnskou jeskyní
From the belay in the middle of the wall, a line of bolts extending upwards. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-
Nad holštejnskou jeskyní
To the right of Nová varianta (New Variant). Boulder on a vertical wall. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5-
Nad holštejnskou jeskyní
Ramp right and up the broken wall to the belay on the small pillar. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +5
7-
Nad holštejnskou jeskyní
Up the small pillar to a large handle (friend) and from the left overhang to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +3
7-
Nad holštejnskou jeskyní
From the third bolt of Kaše directly up to the silver bolt and over it across the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +3
8-
Nad holštejnskou jeskyní
Right of the corner and under the overhang left and over it to the belay (right). Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7
Nad holštejnskou jeskyní
From the ledge, the second route right of the corner. Up the wall into a hole and through… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +5
7+
Nad holštejnskou jeskyní
Right of the corner and via the overhang from the right to the belay. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +3
8+
Nad holštejnskou jeskyní
Right of Cesta Pardů. Directly over the bolt. From the next protection, it joins Cesta… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
10
Nad holštejnskou jeskyní
Start like Orient Express and directly up the smooth wall to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6-
Nad holštejnskou jeskyní
Through the corner with a final small overhang. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +6
7+
Nad holštejnskou jeskyní
Always left of the corner of Masked Judith, at the fourth bolt with the help of a step… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8
Nad holštejnskou jeskyní
Start right onto the ledge over two bolts to a small balcony and over it up the wall … Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9+
Nad holštejnskou jeskyní
Under the overhang of Harlinov's Descendants to the right and up the difficult wall to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8
Nad holštejnskou jeskyní
Along the edge and over the overhang to the top.
8+/9-
Nad holštejnskou jeskyní
Directly up the wall over the belay. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-
Nad holštejnskou jeskyní
Left of the edge, through a technical corner under the overhang and over it to the belay. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7+
Lidomorna
Start completely on the right and finish via Okrajovou. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9-
Lidomorna
Straightening of the route That's a rush. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+
Lidomorna
To the ledge and further right to the edge and up it to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
10-
Lidomorna
Up a slightly overhanging wall on poor holds to the belay. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9-
Lidomorna
Up Kotašal halfway and then right up a vertical wall boulder-style to the belay. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2

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