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Climbing at South Moravia

2688 routes
6 areas
1–12 grades

South Moravia covers crags from the Drahany Highlands and the Moravian Karst through the Brno area down to the Znojmo region and Pálava on the Austrian border. The most important is the Moravian Karst north of Brno near Blansko – a limestone protected landscape area of about 92 km² with around 1,100 caves and gorges, five of them open to the public; the best known are the Punkva Caves, discovered by Karel Absolon, and the 138 m deep Macocha Abyss, where the Punkva river disappears underground. In the south rise the limestone Pavlov Hills in the Pálava Protected Landscape Area (since 19 March 1976, 83 km², highest point Děvín at 550 m), a UNESCO biosphere reserve since 1986, extended in 2003 to include the Lednice–Valtice Cultural Landscape.

The character of the climbing changes with the rock: in the Moravian Karst it is overhanging and vertical limestone – Holštejn is among the hardest climbing spots in the Czech Republic, with slippery limestone in places, polished easier routes and long run-outs. Around Brno and in the Drahany Highlands sport climbing on walls and quarries dominates, in the Znojmo area along the Jevišovka, Dyje and Jihlava valleys (Jevišovice and Křižanov Uplands) trad climbing with your own gear, often in the shade, and on Pálava climbing in the Trůn and Martinka groups. Most crags lie in protected areas, so check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association and the protected-area administrations before visiting.

Part of Czech Republic, South Moravia has 2688 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 6 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route on sun, Vertical wall.

Rules

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply. New routes only with the approval of the ČHS South Moravia regional commission.

9-
Lidomorna
To the left of Kontraverze, boulder style over two rivets/small bolts. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+/9-
Lidomorna
Between the third bolt of Averze and Kontraverze directly up the pillar. Do not take the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-
Lidomorna
From the sloping corner of Starobrno, right over the bulge into the second corner and up. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +4
8-
Lidomorna
Original classification V+ A0, RP T. Pilka, 1985 Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8-
Lidomorna
Same as Starobrno, but from the upper slab directly up (left rappel point). Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Lidomorna
Upper easier traverse above the cave. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8-
Lidomorna
Traverse left just above the edge of the cave. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8
Lidomorna
Like 'New Normal Route' but later straight up a vertical wall.
10+
Lidomorna
Start all the way to the right and along the upper edge of the roof to the third (bolt… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9+
Lidomorna
In the right part of the cave, over two BH (bolts) across the overhang and to the belay… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
10/10+
Lidomorna
Along the upper edge of the roof. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
10
Lidomorna
In the right part of the cave straight over the overhang. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
11-
Lidomorna
Over three borhaks (bolts) into the route 'Glutaman' and along it to the rappel point. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Route on sun +1
10+
Lidomorna
Along the lower edge of the roof. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
10-
Lidomorna
Via the route 'Kašpárek's little grave' to the second (bolt/anchor) and from there left… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
10
Lidomorna
Through Kašpárek to the second (bolt/anchor), left into Barricade and from the last one… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
10
Lidomorna
Overhang via chiseled edges/ledges to the belay/rappel point. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
10-
Lidomorna
Through the barricade to the second (bolt/anchor) and from there right into Kašpárek. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9+/10-
Lidomorna
Start right of the sign (slab/route) over two borhaks (bolts) up and then diagonally left… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-
Lidomorna
Via 'The Sign' (route/slab) over its hardest part to the no-hand rest and from there… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
10
Lidomorna
Original classification, V+A3 RP A. Eichmaier, 2014, ends in No-hand rest. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-
Lidomorna
Via 'The Sign' (route/slab) to the third (bolt/anchor) and right onto the overhanging… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7+
Lidomorna
From the no-hand rest above the key (crux) of 'The Sign', right through the corner and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7+
Lidomorna
Through the crack and corner around the sign to the belay/rappel point.
10+
Lidomorna
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
11-/11
Lidomorna
Extension of Koschei over two BH (bolts) to the shelf. Ends in Kudlanka. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+
Lidomorna
RP T. Pilka, 1986 Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
11+
Lidomorna
First 5 bolts of Perla východu, but we do not traverse left, but simply go straight up… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
12-
Lidomorna
Start like Kostěj Nesmrtelný, from the right we avoid a good rest via the crux of… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
11
Lidomorna
Between Hradní spára and Kostěj Nesmrtelný via 7 bolts into Hradní spára, then 5m up and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2

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