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Climbing at South Moravia

2688 routes
6 areas
1–12 grades

South Moravia covers crags from the Drahany Highlands and the Moravian Karst through the Brno area down to the Znojmo region and Pálava on the Austrian border. The most important is the Moravian Karst north of Brno near Blansko – a limestone protected landscape area of about 92 km² with around 1,100 caves and gorges, five of them open to the public; the best known are the Punkva Caves, discovered by Karel Absolon, and the 138 m deep Macocha Abyss, where the Punkva river disappears underground. In the south rise the limestone Pavlov Hills in the Pálava Protected Landscape Area (since 19 March 1976, 83 km², highest point Děvín at 550 m), a UNESCO biosphere reserve since 1986, extended in 2003 to include the Lednice–Valtice Cultural Landscape.

The character of the climbing changes with the rock: in the Moravian Karst it is overhanging and vertical limestone – Holštejn is among the hardest climbing spots in the Czech Republic, with slippery limestone in places, polished easier routes and long run-outs. Around Brno and in the Drahany Highlands sport climbing on walls and quarries dominates, in the Znojmo area along the Jevišovka, Dyje and Jihlava valleys (Jevišovice and Křižanov Uplands) trad climbing with your own gear, often in the shade, and on Pálava climbing in the Trůn and Martinka groups. Most crags lie in protected areas, so check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association and the protected-area administrations before visiting.

Part of Czech Republic, South Moravia has 2688 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 6 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route on sun, Vertical wall.

Rules

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply. New routes only with the approval of the ČHS South Moravia regional commission.

11-/11
Lidomorna
Bouldering power moves. Ends at the rappel in the middle of the wall. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
10-
Lidomorna
Original classification V A3, free T. Pilka RK, 1987 Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8+
Lidomorna
Up the crack to the right of the Charles Darwin route, over the overhang and continuously… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +4
8+
Lidomorna
Starting variation for the Noční spára variation directly along the edge. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +4
10
Lidomorna
Up the smooth wall to the right and through the corner into the overhang and to the belay. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
11-
Lidomorna
Up the middle of the pillar, over the overhang to the Evoluce rappel anchor. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-
Lidomorna
Up the distinct crack. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +4
8-
Lidomorna
Up the technical slab via small holds diagonally right to Noční spára and then follow it… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
?
Lidomorna
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9+/10-
Lidomorna
RP P. Weisser, 1986 Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9+
Lidomorna
The route starts like Nedokončená, at the second bolt (which is quite difficult to clip… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
?
Lidomorna
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-
Lidomorna
Up the pillar to the right of the corner. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +3
8-
Lidomorna
Through the technical corner to the belay. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+
Lidomorna
Up the vertical wall to the belay. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
5+
Lidomorna
Up the wall to the belay. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
?
Lidomorna
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5-
Lidomorna
Original classification IV A0 Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
5+
Lidomorna
Through the corner and around the tree. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
10-
Lidomorna
Along the edge to the right of Krucifix. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5-
Lidomorna
Through the corner to the right of Via Sacra. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
8
Lidomorna
Along the edge to the belay. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5-
Lidomorna
Through the corner and then along the edge. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
8+/9-
Lidomorna
Start on the edge and up a short overhanging wall to the ledge to the chain. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-
Stará rasovna
Rock Climbing Fixed belay
?
Lidomorna
To the left of Krucifix via a smooth wall. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6+
Stará rasovna
Up the center of the wall via a prominent fault. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +4
8-
Stará rasovna
Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Stará rasovna
Rock Climbing
8-
Cínová hora
Rocks of the Czech Republic, Czech Mountaineering Association database. Rock Climbing

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