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Climbing at South Moravia

2688 routes
6 areas
1–12 grades

South Moravia covers crags from the Drahany Highlands and the Moravian Karst through the Brno area down to the Znojmo region and Pálava on the Austrian border. The most important is the Moravian Karst north of Brno near Blansko – a limestone protected landscape area of about 92 km² with around 1,100 caves and gorges, five of them open to the public; the best known are the Punkva Caves, discovered by Karel Absolon, and the 138 m deep Macocha Abyss, where the Punkva river disappears underground. In the south rise the limestone Pavlov Hills in the Pálava Protected Landscape Area (since 19 March 1976, 83 km², highest point Děvín at 550 m), a UNESCO biosphere reserve since 1986, extended in 2003 to include the Lednice–Valtice Cultural Landscape.

The character of the climbing changes with the rock: in the Moravian Karst it is overhanging and vertical limestone – Holštejn is among the hardest climbing spots in the Czech Republic, with slippery limestone in places, polished easier routes and long run-outs. Around Brno and in the Drahany Highlands sport climbing on walls and quarries dominates, in the Znojmo area along the Jevišovka, Dyje and Jihlava valleys (Jevišovice and Křižanov Uplands) trad climbing with your own gear, often in the shade, and on Pálava climbing in the Trůn and Martinka groups. Most crags lie in protected areas, so check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association and the protected-area administrations before visiting.

Part of Czech Republic, South Moravia has 2688 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 6 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route on sun, Vertical wall.

Rules

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply. New routes only with the approval of the ČHS South Moravia regional commission.

8-
Býčí roh
First via a vertical slab, then over steps to the anchor. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8
Býčí roh
Start between the routes 'Between the Horns' and 'Safari Rally' via 2 bolts (boulder at… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+
Býčí roh
Start to the right via a sloping ramp to the bolt, then up a small wall to the left of… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
5
Býčí roh
Diagonally to the right via a sloping ramp. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
7
Býčí roh
To the right of Mici's Route via a distinct recess and corner (at the top it freely… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6+
Kateřinský prst
To the right behind the tree to a separate mossy rock. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-
Býčí roh
Original classification V A1 Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7
Býčí roh
Leftmost route on Bull's Horn. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+
Kateřinský prst
Via the corner crack of the Valley Route, but then straight across the slab nv. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +5
7+
Kateřinský prst
Up the valley wall to the left via a broken overhang. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+
Kateřinský prst
Rock Climbing
6
Kateřinský prst
Rocks of the Czech Republic, Czech Mountaineering Association database. Rock Climbing
6
Kateřinský prst
Along the edge to the left of 'Life is a Bad Dream'. The bolt line leads, ending at the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5
Kateřinský prst
Start like 'Pillar' and then independently to the right over the summit overhang. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5-
Kateřinský prst
Along the edge and through the pillar. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+
Kateřinský prst
Original classification V A0 Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +5
6
Kateřinský prst
Same start as Unfinished Request, but in the middle it disconnects and goes independently… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6-
Kateřinský prst
Left of the edge. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Kateřinský prst
Down a vertical small wall, over a small overhang and a slabby technical slab. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6-
Kateřinský prst
Connection of Unfinished Request and Franta Vlk. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6-
Kateřinský prst
Technically over the vertical wall at the bottom and to the left of the edge at the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Kateřinský prst
To the right of the Right Corner. Up a crack and a slabby wall. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
6
Kateřinský prst
Direct start in the fall line of the corner. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
5+
Kateřinský prst
Corner to the right of the pillar. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +5
5
Kateřinský prst
Traverse route. It goes through the easiest part of the wall. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-
Kateřinský prst
To the left of the corner. Technical moves. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5
Kateřinský prst
Up the wall between Stratosphere and Reparat. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +5
5+
Kateřinský prst
Up the middle of the broken pillar. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5+
Kateřinský prst
Through the corner and then up the middle of the narrow pillar. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7
Kateřinský prst
Original classification V+ AO Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +2

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