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Climbing at South Moravia

2688 routes
6 areas
1–12 grades

South Moravia covers crags from the Drahany Highlands and the Moravian Karst through the Brno area down to the Znojmo region and Pálava on the Austrian border. The most important is the Moravian Karst north of Brno near Blansko – a limestone protected landscape area of about 92 km² with around 1,100 caves and gorges, five of them open to the public; the best known are the Punkva Caves, discovered by Karel Absolon, and the 138 m deep Macocha Abyss, where the Punkva river disappears underground. In the south rise the limestone Pavlov Hills in the Pálava Protected Landscape Area (since 19 March 1976, 83 km², highest point Děvín at 550 m), a UNESCO biosphere reserve since 1986, extended in 2003 to include the Lednice–Valtice Cultural Landscape.

The character of the climbing changes with the rock: in the Moravian Karst it is overhanging and vertical limestone – Holštejn is among the hardest climbing spots in the Czech Republic, with slippery limestone in places, polished easier routes and long run-outs. Around Brno and in the Drahany Highlands sport climbing on walls and quarries dominates, in the Znojmo area along the Jevišovka, Dyje and Jihlava valleys (Jevišovice and Křižanov Uplands) trad climbing with your own gear, often in the shade, and on Pálava climbing in the Trůn and Martinka groups. Most crags lie in protected areas, so check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association and the protected-area administrations before visiting.

Part of Czech Republic, South Moravia has 2688 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 6 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route on sun, Vertical wall.

Rules

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply. New routes only with the approval of the ČHS South Moravia regional commission.

6+
Henryho stěna
Original classification V A0 Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +5
5
Saxifraga
The route starts about eight meters to the right of the Spring route. Over broken rock to… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
7-
Saxifraga
In the middle of the corner, it branches off and leads up to the right. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +5
6+
Saxifraga
Original classification V A1 Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +6
7-
Saxifraga
Low down over three bolts (unstable rock) and high up always left through the corner. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +5
7
Saxifraga
End to the left of the original over two bolts. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +5
7-
Saxifraga
Left through a corner up to below the overhang (bolt), traverse right onto a ledge and up… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +5
9-
Saxifraga
Original classification V A0
9
Saxifraga
Original classification 7 A1, RP D. Janák Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6+
Saxifraga
Original classification V+ A1 Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +5
5-
Saxifraga
Old Sax to the cave. From there left over a thundering overhang. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+
Saxifraga
Middle of the wall. Boulder problem at the first protection, in the middle an endurance… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7
Saxifraga
Into the cave and over an overhang on rounded holes/pockets directly up to the belay… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +4
7
Saxifraga
Into the cave and over an overhang on rounded holes/pockets upwards. Afterwards to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +4
7+
Saxifraga
Original classification IV A0 Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+
Saxifraga
Start the same as Cik, cak around the first two protections and then up a vertical wall… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+
Saxifraga
From a large ledge straight up a slab. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9+
Saxifraga
First half easier climbing ending with a small overhang. From the ledge, a boulder… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6+/7-
Za zrcadlem
Over one nut and watches/small features under the overhang, where the route ends. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8
Saxifraga
Bouldering around the first two protections, then traverse along a ledge and finish… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8
Za zrcadlem
Through a technical corner over bolts. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
?
Saxifraga
Left overhang of the wall. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7+
Za zrcadlem
Start into Márvin slightly from the left. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-
Za zrcadlem
First bolted line from the left. Difficult near the second bolt. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-
Za zrcadlem
Middle of the wall under the overhanging part and diagonally left over a bolt to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-
Za zrcadlem
Poorly protected route. The initial boulder must be protected with own gear. At the top… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
5+
Za zrcadlem
Diagonally left along the ramp. Further right via a crack and over the final overhang… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +5
6
Býčí roh
Start via a small corner, over a ledge slightly to the left and to the anchor. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
5
Býčí roh
Traverse from the right to the pillar at the level of the broken spruce tree and from the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
4
Býčí roh
Start the same as 'Pillar', but then via a corner-chimney nv. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3

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