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Climbing at South Moravia

2688 routes
6 areas
1–12 grades

South Moravia covers crags from the Drahany Highlands and the Moravian Karst through the Brno area down to the Znojmo region and Pálava on the Austrian border. The most important is the Moravian Karst north of Brno near Blansko – a limestone protected landscape area of about 92 km² with around 1,100 caves and gorges, five of them open to the public; the best known are the Punkva Caves, discovered by Karel Absolon, and the 138 m deep Macocha Abyss, where the Punkva river disappears underground. In the south rise the limestone Pavlov Hills in the Pálava Protected Landscape Area (since 19 March 1976, 83 km², highest point Děvín at 550 m), a UNESCO biosphere reserve since 1986, extended in 2003 to include the Lednice–Valtice Cultural Landscape.

The character of the climbing changes with the rock: in the Moravian Karst it is overhanging and vertical limestone – Holštejn is among the hardest climbing spots in the Czech Republic, with slippery limestone in places, polished easier routes and long run-outs. Around Brno and in the Drahany Highlands sport climbing on walls and quarries dominates, in the Znojmo area along the Jevišovka, Dyje and Jihlava valleys (Jevišovice and Křižanov Uplands) trad climbing with your own gear, often in the shade, and on Pálava climbing in the Trůn and Martinka groups. Most crags lie in protected areas, so check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association and the protected-area administrations before visiting.

Part of Czech Republic, South Moravia has 2688 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 6 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route on sun, Vertical wall.

Rules

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply. New routes only with the approval of the ČHS South Moravia regional commission.

6
Kůň a policejní
From the Cave (right) right along the edge to the piton and into the corner, through it… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +5
4
Kůň a policejní
Along overgrown walls to the left of the right edge of the entire massif. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
4
Beran a rorejsi
Along an overgrown, sloping gully. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
5
Kůň a policejní
From the cave to the right and slightly above it to the left into the corner and to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +4
5+
Kůň a policejní
Original classification V+ A0 Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
6+
Kůň a policejní
From the cave under Rozporák via a small wall to the piton, further via a small wall over… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
5-
Kůň a policejní
In the right part of the wall (friable) up by bolts into the cave, there is a summit book… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +5
6+
Kůň a policejní
Original classification V A1 Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +4
4+
Kůň a policejní
Over the first three protection points of Policejní (Police), left into the broken yellow… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +5
6+
Kůň a policejní
From the first protection point of Policejní (Police) slightly left under the rumbling… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
5
Kůň a policejní
From the tree via a depression and right over a rock protrusion into the chimney. Up the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +5
5-
Kůň a policejní
Up the middle of the slabs slightly from the right to the top. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
5
Kůň a policejní
In the right part of the slab, via a gully to the shrub-trees (belay). Horizontally right… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +5
6
Kůň a policejní
Up the grassy wall (piton) right into the corner (hourglass), further right traverse to a… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +5
?
Kůň a policejní
Cave from the left. Winter route. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
?
Kůň a policejní
Up the middle of the slabs to the top. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
?
Kůň a policejní
In the left part at the right end of the overhang up cracks and slabs. Winter route. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
?
Kůň a policejní
Cave from the left. Winter route. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
4-
Kůň a policejní
Along the left ridge of the entire Horse all the way up to the saddle. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
4-
Kůň a policejní
Rock Climbing
4+
Kůň a policejní
Variant from the first belay of the Horse to the right on the slab. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
7
Nad vodárnou
Original classification V- A1 Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
4-
Kůň a policejní
Rock Climbing
7+
Nad vodárnou
To the right of the Hourglass. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+
Nad vodárnou
Directly up the wall and over the final overhang to the ledge. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7
Nad vodárnou
Over two belays/protection points and then right into the route Kamenné spodky (Stone… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-
Nad vodárnou
Over the overhang and a vertical wall to the rappel point. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5
Nad vodárnou
To the left of the entrance to the small tree, to the tree and right into the corner and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +3
4-
Nad vodárnou
Start the same way as the path Next to the entrance to the small tree, from there left… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
7
Nad vodárnou
To the right of the cave onto a sloping ledge and along it over three bolts left into a… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3

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