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Climbing at South Moravia

2688 routes
6 areas
1–12 grades

South Moravia covers crags from the Drahany Highlands and the Moravian Karst through the Brno area down to the Znojmo region and Pálava on the Austrian border. The most important is the Moravian Karst north of Brno near Blansko – a limestone protected landscape area of about 92 km² with around 1,100 caves and gorges, five of them open to the public; the best known are the Punkva Caves, discovered by Karel Absolon, and the 138 m deep Macocha Abyss, where the Punkva river disappears underground. In the south rise the limestone Pavlov Hills in the Pálava Protected Landscape Area (since 19 March 1976, 83 km², highest point Děvín at 550 m), a UNESCO biosphere reserve since 1986, extended in 2003 to include the Lednice–Valtice Cultural Landscape.

The character of the climbing changes with the rock: in the Moravian Karst it is overhanging and vertical limestone – Holštejn is among the hardest climbing spots in the Czech Republic, with slippery limestone in places, polished easier routes and long run-outs. Around Brno and in the Drahany Highlands sport climbing on walls and quarries dominates, in the Znojmo area along the Jevišovka, Dyje and Jihlava valleys (Jevišovice and Křižanov Uplands) trad climbing with your own gear, often in the shade, and on Pálava climbing in the Trůn and Martinka groups. Most crags lie in protected areas, so check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association and the protected-area administrations before visiting.

Part of Czech Republic, South Moravia has 2688 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 6 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route on sun, Vertical wall.

Rules

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply. New routes only with the approval of the ČHS South Moravia regional commission.

8+
Beran a rorejsi
To the right of Okovy. Directly up the middle of the wall. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8
Beran a rorejsi
First pitch 8- Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8
Beran a rorejsi
Approach via Okovy route, from the second belay directly up through a hole over a bolt… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9-
Beran a rorejsi
Approach via Okovy route - direct variation to the first rappel anchor of Okovy, from… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9+
Beran a rorejsi
Connection of Alpha Centauri and Staré páky routes. Connection of Alpha Centauri and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9-
Beran a rorejsi
Between Alfa and Propaganda or also second to the right of Kouřilky. Clipping a new eye… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+/9-
Beran a rorejsi
First route to the left of the triangular rock outcrop. Directly upwards. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+
Beran a rorejsi
Nice, technical line to the right of Kouřilky Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9-/9
Beran a rorejsi
From the first belay of Kouřilky, right to the piton and directly over four bolts to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
?
Beran a rorejsi
From the second belay of Kouřilky, directly upwards. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+
Beran a rorejsi
Description missing. Original classification V A2, First pitch 7+ Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9+/10-
Beran a rorejsi
L2 10- Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8
Beran a rorejsi
Overhangs to the left of Styx to the third belay of Kouřilka. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +2
9+/10-
Beran a rorejsi
Start with an overhang to the right of Styx, then it connects into it (second protection)… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
10-
Beran a rorejsi
Original classification V+ A3, RP A. Ondra 2008
7-
Beran a rorejsi
Original classification VI A0 Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
5+
Beran a rorejsi
From the hardest point of Velký Beran directly upwards through a slightly overhanging… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
5+
Beran a rorejsi
From the second belay of Velký Beran directly to the reddish piton, up and to the right… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
5
Beran a rorejsi
From the 2nd belay of Velký Beran diagonally left, into the corner. Then onto a ledge… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
8
Beran a rorejsi
L1: to the left of alleluia up the wall to the Beran ledge (8), L2: to the left of… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
7
Beran a rorejsi
Up a vertical corner technically nv. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6+
Beran a rorejsi
Through the middle of the right wall of Beran. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8
Beran a rorejsi
Original classification V A2 Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7
Beran a rorejsi
Up a sloping ramp into the cave, to the right on a ledge and then directly over an…
4
Beran a rorejsi
Start like Malý beran, but do not enter the cave, but from the left into the pseudo… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
6
Beran a rorejsi
Rock Climbing Route on sun
5
Beran a rorejsi
To the right of the edge of Starý kozel, diagonally up a broken, overgrown wall to the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
3
Beran a rorejsi
L1: Traverse through the small cave to its top (belay), L2: From the cave to the right …
8-
Beran a rorejsi
Original classification V+ A1, RP D. Janák, 2009 Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Kůň a policejní
From the Cave (right) right along the edge to the piton and into the corner, through it… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +5

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