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Climbing at South Moravia

2688 routes
6 areas
1–12 grades

South Moravia covers crags from the Drahany Highlands and the Moravian Karst through the Brno area down to the Znojmo region and Pálava on the Austrian border. The most important is the Moravian Karst north of Brno near Blansko – a limestone protected landscape area of about 92 km² with around 1,100 caves and gorges, five of them open to the public; the best known are the Punkva Caves, discovered by Karel Absolon, and the 138 m deep Macocha Abyss, where the Punkva river disappears underground. In the south rise the limestone Pavlov Hills in the Pálava Protected Landscape Area (since 19 March 1976, 83 km², highest point Děvín at 550 m), a UNESCO biosphere reserve since 1986, extended in 2003 to include the Lednice–Valtice Cultural Landscape.

The character of the climbing changes with the rock: in the Moravian Karst it is overhanging and vertical limestone – Holštejn is among the hardest climbing spots in the Czech Republic, with slippery limestone in places, polished easier routes and long run-outs. Around Brno and in the Drahany Highlands sport climbing on walls and quarries dominates, in the Znojmo area along the Jevišovka, Dyje and Jihlava valleys (Jevišovice and Křižanov Uplands) trad climbing with your own gear, often in the shade, and on Pálava climbing in the Trůn and Martinka groups. Most crags lie in protected areas, so check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association and the protected-area administrations before visiting.

Part of Czech Republic, South Moravia has 2688 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 6 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route on sun, Vertical wall.

Rules

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply. New routes only with the approval of the ČHS South Moravia regional commission.

5
Beran a rorejsi
Start right of Rorejs. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
4+
Beran a rorejsi
About five meters to the right of Rorejs. Leads to the same belay. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
7
Beran a rorejsi
Original classification V+ A0 Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
7
Beran a rorejsi
Original classification V A1
7
Beran a rorejsi
Original classification V+ A0 Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-
Beran a rorejsi
Original classification V A1 Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
6+
Beran a rorejsi
Original classification V A1 Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-
Beran a rorejsi
Shallow corner to the left of the Rorejs start, over the overhang and up a slab to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9-
Beran a rorejsi
Original classification 8+, A0 Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-
Beran a rorejsi
Start via Smích in tablets, then directly up to the rappel anchor, possibly even to the…
8
Beran a rorejsi
Left of Smích in tablets, up the loose rock all the way. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9
Beran a rorejsi
Starts left of Per Partes. Follow the holds into a horizontal crack and traverse right… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
10-
Beran a rorejsi
To the right in the overhangs. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9+
Beran a rorejsi
Start left of Brandlemoucha, shared rappel anchor. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+
Beran a rorejsi
Freely into the first cave above the arch, diagonally right over two BHs to the holds and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+
Beran a rorejsi
L1 from the cave traverse to the first Rorejs stand, L2 traverse back and up the corner… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9-
Beran a rorejsi
Original classification V+ A2
8-
Beran a rorejsi
To the right of Diretta through a hole with a double bolt, right into a hole and left to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+
Beran a rorejsi
Original classification V A2e, RP T. Pilka, 1985 Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9
Beran a rorejsi
Approach via Náskok route, from the second belay diagonally right along colored bolts… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-
Beran a rorejsi
With a direct New Approach straight into the second pitch of Hýskovy Rorejsy and its… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5
Beran a rorejsi
From the Okovy belay, or from Nebeský kout to the advanced belay on the ledge. Further… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
8-
Beran a rorejsi
Approach to the right of the original. At the fourth, the route rejoins Diretta. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+
Beran a rorejsi
Same as Diretissima to the sloping ledge and then straight over the overhang and directly… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5+
Beran a rorejsi
From the last cave, traverse left along the roof into the corner, along it and right up…
7+
Beran a rorejsi
Original classification IV A2e Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-
Beran a rorejsi
Original classification V A1e Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+
Beran a rorejsi
From the second belay of Hýska, left through the corner (2bh) under the overhang and from… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-
Beran a rorejsi
Original classification VI A0 Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
9-
Beran a rorejsi
Via Direttisima route to the last belay before the first stance, from there directly up… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2

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