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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
6
Podkováňská stěna
In the right part of the wall to the 1st K and the smooth wall to the 2nd K. Left into… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Podkováňská stěna
Slab to the 1st and 2nd K, then through the crack over the 3rd and 4th K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Podkováňská stěna
Through the chimney in the right part of the massif.
2
Nemluva
From the downhill side through the chimney in the right part of the massif to the top. Rock Climbing Laid wall
7
Podkováňská stěna
Through the crack to the 1st K, left up to the 2nd K, behind the edge and over the 3rd K… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8
Modrá laguna
Through the center of the downhill wall over 3 Ks, left to the edge and to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Soběrad
Through the middle of the East wall to the plateau, to the right over the overhang and to… Rock Climbing
3
Soběrad
In the right part of the valley wall to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Soběrad
By the North edge to the top. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Vertical wall
3
Malá železná stěna
In the left part of the North wall to the top. Rock Climbing
1
Soběrad
By the South edge to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Malá železná stěna
By the narrow West wall to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Soběrad
By the crack in the right part of the West wall to the South edge. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Slavibor (Kleine Nadel)
By the North edge to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Slavibor (Kleine Nadel)
Under the overhang to the right to the saddle, over the overhanging wall to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Slavibor (Kleine Nadel)
In the right part of the West wall to the saddle (loop), left under the overhanging West… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Slavibor (Kleine Nadel)
By the South edge over steps directly to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Slavibor (Kleine Nadel)
In the East wall, by the notch to the "clock", diagonally right to the edge and to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Běch (Marderstein)
Along the SE edge over K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Běch (Marderstein)
From the crack straight to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
8
Běch (Marderstein)
To the right of the „Cesta strejců“ route, directly through the wall over K top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Běch (Marderstein)
In the right part of the East wall along the ledge diagonally left under the overhang to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Slavibor (Kleine Nadel)
Through the middle of the West wall along the crack under the overhang (loop), diagonally… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Běch (Marderstein)
Through the center of the downhill (W) wall above the small pillar under the overhang … Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Postrach Strachal
Through the chimney from the valley between the main peak and the pillar to the "Old… Rock Climbing
4
Běch (Marderstein)
Along the edge into the gully, above the overhang to the left to the edge and n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
8
Běch (Marderstein)
To the right of the 'Junácká' route, straight up the wall over the overhangs to K and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Běch (Marderstein)
Through the downhill wall over 3K straight up n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Běch (Marderstein)
From the left or right to the edge (loop), up towards the summit, right behind the edge… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Běch (Marderstein)
First up the NE edge (knot), then diagonally right into the downhill wall and straight up… Rock Climbing Textile belay

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