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Climbing at Kyjov - Brtníky

495 routes
89 areas
2–9/9+ grades

Kyjov – Brtníky is a sector in the north-eastern part of Bohemian Switzerland National Park, with almost 500 routes on 89 sandstone towers – for example Malý and Velký Plačtivý kámen, Kráva, Obří hlava, Brtnická věž (Strážce Křepelčího dolu), Brtnický kostel, Věž Bílého potoka and Býk. Protection is traditional – rings and textile protection; grades from 2 to 9/9+.

Part of 9. Bohemian Switzerland NP, Kyjov - Brtníky has 495 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 9/9+. Explore its 89 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay.

Rules

Inside the national park you may climb only on permitted rocks.

The park administration announces seasonal access bans each year for sites with nesting birds. Some towers are closed permanently (the "Jetřichovice – zakázané" sector). Check the ČHS crag database and the park administration's website before every visit.

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Malý Plačtivý kámen 25 routes Velký Plačtivý kámen 21 routes Kráva 13 routes Obří hlava 12 routes Brtnická věž (Strážce Křepelčího dolu) 11 routes Brtnický kostel 11 routes Věž Bílého potoka 11 routes Býk 11 routes Brtnický kámen 10 routes Náhodná věž 10 routes Tlustá teta 10 routes Němý svědek 10 routes Zámecká věž 9 routes Tři stoly 9 routes Slunovratový kámen (Trojče) 9 routes Martinova věž 8 routes Kuncova stěna (Rákosová stěna) 8 routes Dvojitá věž 7 routes Loupežník 7 routes Poradní skála 7 routes Brtnická stěna 7 routes Volská stěna 7 routes Velbloudí věž 7 routes Rybářská bašta 7 routes Velký muž 6 routes Převislá věž 6 routes Korunková jehla 6 routes Orlí věž 6 routes Vyhlídka 6 routes Dietrichův kámen 6 routes Vlk 6 routes Hradní jehla 6 routes Kyjovský král 5 routes Meloun 5 routes Železná věž 5 routes Kohoutí věž 5 routes Zadní kužel 5 routes Strážce Temného dolu 5 routes Hraniční kámen 5 routes Zpustlý kastelán 5 routes Jarní věž 5 routes Sněhová královna 5 routes Borový kámen 5 routes Tlustá paní 5 routes Bivoj 5 routes Domov důchodců 4 routes Strážce Malého krkavčího dolu 4 routes Velká medvědice 4 routes Černokněžník 4 routes Smrtka 4 routes Stěna nad ohništěm 4 routes Malý muž 4 routes Volská věž 4 routes Markétina věž (Kopretinová věž) 4 routes Rákosník 4 routes Křinická branka 4 routes Vodník 4 routes Vůl 4 routes Pašerák 4 routes Drahokam 4 routes Říjnová (Říjná) jehla 4 routes Strážce Šternberka (Lesní duch) 4 routes Volský kužel 3 routes Železná ostrožna 3 routes Svíčka 3 routes Lahvička 3 routes Vlčí doupě 3 routes Temný kámen (Hejkal) 3 routes Kastelánka 3 routes Krtek 3 routes Lísková věž 3 routes Strážce klenotnice 3 routes Hraniční jehla 3 routes Pytel 3 routes Brtnička 3 routes Temná jehla 3 routes Tlustý strýc (Pachole) 3 routes Malý zbrojnoš 2 routes Čertův kámen 2 routes Pavučinový hrad 2 routes Veverka 2 routes Výspa Bílého potoka 2 routes Computer 2 routes Žhář 2 routes Schovanka 2 routes Paleček 2 routes Giselina skála 2 routes Strážce Žabiho rohu 1 route Homolka 1 route
3
Malý Plačtivý kámen
Completely on the left in the East wall, take the crack to the balcony and then take the… Rock Climbing
6
Velbloudí věž
From the start of the Old Route, to the right over the overhang into the gully. Take that… Rock Climbing
5
Velbloudí věž
East wall, then chimney to the saddle and chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Tlustá teta
Take the chimney of the Old Route, then up the wall directly over the borehole to the… Rock Climbing
2+
Velbloudí věž
From the foreland, traverse right into the south wall and take that to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Velbloudí věž
From the base of the South wall, take the chimney between the foreland and the tower to… Rock Climbing
6-
Tlustá teta
In the North wall, chimney to the ring in the massif, chimney to the 2nd ring and then… Rock Climbing
6-
Tlustá teta
Take the chimney directly to the ring. Take the oblique crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Tlustá teta
In the valley wall, take the corner to the slab to the ring, then up the wall and the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
?
Tlustá teta
From the massif, jump directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Tlustá teta
On the right in the uphill (East) wall, take the crack in the massif, overhang and… Rock Climbing
6-
Tlustá teta
At the obtuse uphill (SE) edge, take the hand crack and the wall to the borehole of the… Rock Climbing
2+
Tlustý strýc (Pachole)
About 2m to the right of the Old Route, take the chimney between the tower and the block,… Rock Climbing
3
Tlustá teta
From the North in the massif, descend to the balcony, build from the overhang onto the… Rock Climbing
6-
Tlustá teta
On the left in the NW wall, take the indistinct corner and the wall to the right to the… Rock Climbing
4-
Tlustá teta
At the western end of the gully, chimney and wall to the left onto the platform. Then… Rock Climbing
3
Tlustý strýc (Pachole)
From the uphill side of Tlustá teta (Fat Aunt), take the smooth wall to the block and as… Rock Climbing
2
Tlustý strýc (Pachole)
From the SE chimney between the sub-peak and the tower to the balcony, then up the wall… Rock Climbing
4-
Strážce Malého krkavčího dolu
On the right in the valley wall, directly over the overhang (or traverse from the right -… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Strážce Malého krkavčího dolu
In the middle of the valley wall to a ledge, overhanging to the right onto a step to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
Přeskok
Brtnická stěna
From the Southeast, descend from the massif and jump to the pre-summit, then climb the… Rock Climbing
4+
Brtnická stěna
On the right in the valley-side (Southwest) wall, climb an overhanging crack and chimney… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Brtnická stěna
From the summit of Brtnická věž (Brtníky Tower), descend, jump, and climb the wall to the… Rock Climbing
2+
Brtnická stěna
From the East in the massif, descend through a ravine into the valley via a chimney. On… Rock Climbing
5
Brtnická stěna
On the left in the valley-side (Southwest) wall, climb an overhanging crack and chimney… Rock Climbing
3
Brtnická stěna
From the massif, descend from a stance and across the pre-summit to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Brtnická stěna
From the South, descend from the massif via a gully to a chimney onto a ledge, traverse… Rock Climbing
4+
Brtnická věž (Strážce Křepelčího dolu)
From the east, crack between the tower and the massif over the overhang, corner crack,… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Brtnická věž (Strážce Křepelčího dolu)
Through the center of the valley wall over 2 bolts and a ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Brtnická věž (Strážce Křepelčího dolu)
Chimney between the tower and the Brtnice wall to the ring. By stemming and up the wall… Rock Climbing

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