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Climbing at Kyjov - Brtníky

495 routes
89 areas
2–9/9+ grades

Kyjov – Brtníky is a sector in the north-eastern part of Bohemian Switzerland National Park, with almost 500 routes on 89 sandstone towers – for example Malý and Velký Plačtivý kámen, Kráva, Obří hlava, Brtnická věž (Strážce Křepelčího dolu), Brtnický kostel, Věž Bílého potoka and Býk. Protection is traditional – rings and textile protection; grades from 2 to 9/9+.

Part of 9. Bohemian Switzerland NP, Kyjov - Brtníky has 495 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 9/9+. Explore its 89 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay.

Rules

Inside the national park you may climb only on permitted rocks.

The park administration announces seasonal access bans each year for sites with nesting birds. Some towers are closed permanently (the "Jetřichovice – zakázané" sector). Check the ČHS crag database and the park administration's website before every visit.

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Malý Plačtivý kámen 25 routes Velký Plačtivý kámen 21 routes Kráva 13 routes Obří hlava 12 routes Brtnická věž (Strážce Křepelčího dolu) 11 routes Brtnický kostel 11 routes Věž Bílého potoka 11 routes Býk 11 routes Brtnický kámen 10 routes Náhodná věž 10 routes Tlustá teta 10 routes Němý svědek 10 routes Zámecká věž 9 routes Tři stoly 9 routes Slunovratový kámen (Trojče) 9 routes Martinova věž 8 routes Kuncova stěna (Rákosová stěna) 8 routes Dvojitá věž 7 routes Loupežník 7 routes Poradní skála 7 routes Brtnická stěna 7 routes Volská stěna 7 routes Velbloudí věž 7 routes Rybářská bašta 7 routes Velký muž 6 routes Převislá věž 6 routes Korunková jehla 6 routes Orlí věž 6 routes Vyhlídka 6 routes Dietrichův kámen 6 routes Vlk 6 routes Hradní jehla 6 routes Kyjovský král 5 routes Meloun 5 routes Železná věž 5 routes Kohoutí věž 5 routes Zadní kužel 5 routes Strážce Temného dolu 5 routes Hraniční kámen 5 routes Zpustlý kastelán 5 routes Jarní věž 5 routes Sněhová královna 5 routes Borový kámen 5 routes Tlustá paní 5 routes Bivoj 5 routes Domov důchodců 4 routes Strážce Malého krkavčího dolu 4 routes Velká medvědice 4 routes Černokněžník 4 routes Smrtka 4 routes Stěna nad ohništěm 4 routes Malý muž 4 routes Volská věž 4 routes Markétina věž (Kopretinová věž) 4 routes Rákosník 4 routes Křinická branka 4 routes Vodník 4 routes Vůl 4 routes Pašerák 4 routes Drahokam 4 routes Říjnová (Říjná) jehla 4 routes Strážce Šternberka (Lesní duch) 4 routes Volský kužel 3 routes Železná ostrožna 3 routes Svíčka 3 routes Lahvička 3 routes Vlčí doupě 3 routes Temný kámen (Hejkal) 3 routes Kastelánka 3 routes Krtek 3 routes Lísková věž 3 routes Strážce klenotnice 3 routes Hraniční jehla 3 routes Pytel 3 routes Brtnička 3 routes Temná jehla 3 routes Tlustý strýc (Pachole) 3 routes Malý zbrojnoš 2 routes Čertův kámen 2 routes Pavučinový hrad 2 routes Veverka 2 routes Výspa Bílého potoka 2 routes Computer 2 routes Žhář 2 routes Schovanka 2 routes Paleček 2 routes Giselina skála 2 routes Strážce Žabiho rohu 1 route Homolka 1 route
3
Tlustá paní
Along the East edge directly to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Dietrichův kámen
Along the East edge to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Dietrichův kámen
North edge to a small platform and to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Dietrichův kámen
East wall to the top (starting with a ladder in the middle of the East wall). Rock Climbing
4-
Tlustá paní
Corner on the right in the South wall to the top. Rock Climbing
2+
Tlustá paní
Right of the East edge (North) wall to the ledge and gully to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Velký muž
Southeast edge (ring) to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Tlustá paní
Left in the South wall directly to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Tlustá paní
Wall on the right in the East wall to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Velký muž
Corner in the south wall to the right onto the balcony. Wall to the ring and to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Velký muž
Between the southeast edge and route e) to the ring. Diagonally left upwards to the edge.… Rock Climbing
6-
Velký muž
Left part of the south wall and over the overhang to the ring. Up to the ledge and left… Rock Climbing
5+
Velký muž
Up the center of the upper face (under the rappel). Rock Climbing
5
Velký muž
Up the southwest face under the overhang, (build up) over the overhang, and right up the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Zadní kužel
By a jump. Rock Climbing
5+
Zadní kužel
Up the center of the valley wall over the overhang and right into the corner. Up the… Rock Climbing
4-
Zadní kužel
From the upper face, using the opposition between the tower and the massif, then right… Rock Climbing
5
Zadní kužel
Up the right upper edge. Rock Climbing
4+
Zadní kužel
Up the upper face, initially using the opposition, higher up directly to the rappel… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Brtnický kámen
Up the edge under the rappel to the 2nd ring. From there, right up the groove to the… Rock Climbing
2+
Malý zbrojnoš
Along the right upper edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Křinická branka
Using the opposition between the right upper edge and the massif. Then up the edge (ring). Rock Climbing
5+
Křinická branka
Up the wall through the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Křinická branka
Up the left upper edge from a standing position to the summit. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Křinická branka
From the block in the massif, jump to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Malý zbrojnoš
On the left in the upper wall, up the smooth wall over the bolt to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Brtnický kámen
Up the southeast edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Brtnický kámen
To the right of the north chimney, up the wall under the overhang, crack, and chimney to… Rock Climbing
4-
Brtnický kámen
Rock Climbing
2+
Brtnický kámen
On the left in the south face, a corner to the platform and right to the summit. Rock Climbing

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