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Climbing at Kyjov - Brtníky

495 routes
89 areas
2–9/9+ grades

Kyjov – Brtníky is a sector in the north-eastern part of Bohemian Switzerland National Park, with almost 500 routes on 89 sandstone towers – for example Malý and Velký Plačtivý kámen, Kráva, Obří hlava, Brtnická věž (Strážce Křepelčího dolu), Brtnický kostel, Věž Bílého potoka and Býk. Protection is traditional – rings and textile protection; grades from 2 to 9/9+.

Part of 9. Bohemian Switzerland NP, Kyjov - Brtníky has 495 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 9/9+. Explore its 89 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay.

Rules

Inside the national park you may climb only on permitted rocks.

The park administration announces seasonal access bans each year for sites with nesting birds. Some towers are closed permanently (the "Jetřichovice – zakázané" sector). Check the ČHS crag database and the park administration's website before every visit.

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Malý Plačtivý kámen 25 routes Velký Plačtivý kámen 21 routes Kráva 13 routes Obří hlava 12 routes Brtnická věž (Strážce Křepelčího dolu) 11 routes Brtnický kostel 11 routes Věž Bílého potoka 11 routes Býk 11 routes Brtnický kámen 10 routes Náhodná věž 10 routes Tlustá teta 10 routes Němý svědek 10 routes Zámecká věž 9 routes Tři stoly 9 routes Slunovratový kámen (Trojče) 9 routes Martinova věž 8 routes Kuncova stěna (Rákosová stěna) 8 routes Dvojitá věž 7 routes Loupežník 7 routes Poradní skála 7 routes Brtnická stěna 7 routes Volská stěna 7 routes Velbloudí věž 7 routes Rybářská bašta 7 routes Velký muž 6 routes Převislá věž 6 routes Korunková jehla 6 routes Orlí věž 6 routes Vyhlídka 6 routes Dietrichův kámen 6 routes Vlk 6 routes Hradní jehla 6 routes Kyjovský král 5 routes Meloun 5 routes Železná věž 5 routes Kohoutí věž 5 routes Zadní kužel 5 routes Strážce Temného dolu 5 routes Hraniční kámen 5 routes Zpustlý kastelán 5 routes Jarní věž 5 routes Sněhová královna 5 routes Borový kámen 5 routes Tlustá paní 5 routes Bivoj 5 routes Domov důchodců 4 routes Strážce Malého krkavčího dolu 4 routes Velká medvědice 4 routes Černokněžník 4 routes Smrtka 4 routes Stěna nad ohništěm 4 routes Malý muž 4 routes Volská věž 4 routes Markétina věž (Kopretinová věž) 4 routes Rákosník 4 routes Křinická branka 4 routes Vodník 4 routes Vůl 4 routes Pašerák 4 routes Drahokam 4 routes Říjnová (Říjná) jehla 4 routes Strážce Šternberka (Lesní duch) 4 routes Volský kužel 3 routes Železná ostrožna 3 routes Svíčka 3 routes Lahvička 3 routes Vlčí doupě 3 routes Temný kámen (Hejkal) 3 routes Kastelánka 3 routes Krtek 3 routes Lísková věž 3 routes Strážce klenotnice 3 routes Hraniční jehla 3 routes Pytel 3 routes Brtnička 3 routes Temná jehla 3 routes Tlustý strýc (Pachole) 3 routes Malý zbrojnoš 2 routes Čertův kámen 2 routes Pavučinový hrad 2 routes Veverka 2 routes Výspa Bílého potoka 2 routes Computer 2 routes Žhář 2 routes Schovanka 2 routes Paleček 2 routes Giselina skála 2 routes Strážce Žabiho rohu 1 route Homolka 1 route
5
Brtnický kámen
To the left of "Břichatá cesta", up the wall through holes directly to the summit (rappel… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Brtnický kámen
To the left of the North Chimney route, up the narrow, oblique chimney and the wall to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Brtnický kámen
Up the chimney in the north face. Rock Climbing
4-
Brtnický kámen
A shallow crack through the center of the south face over the overhang. To the left and… Rock Climbing
2+
Brtnický kámen
From the southeast edge, take the ledge diagonally to the left and the gully to the right… Rock Climbing
4+
Kráva
From the edge directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Kráva
In the left part of the downhill wall, diagonally right up the overgrown gully to the… Rock Climbing
4+
Obří hlava
Via the Old Route to the catwalk and traverse (ring) to the right until the edge.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Kráva
On the right in the uphill wall, up the wall to the balcony and along the edge to the… Rock Climbing
4+
Kráva
Up the wall and fissure below the abseil point to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Obří hlava
From the massif's balcony, drop to the catwalk. Like the „Doznívání" route to the ring.… Rock Climbing
5+
Obří hlava
Up the uphill wall around the ring to the Doznívání ring. Via the northeast route to the… Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Obří hlava
To the right of the route "Copánek", directly up the overhanging wall, 1st bolt to 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Obří hlava
In the western wall, from the boulder, take the crack on the left to the ring. From the… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Obří hlava
To the left of the Copánek route, up the overhanging crack and edge to the ring. Directly… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Obří hlava
In the middle of the uphill wall, from the boulder (ring) to the right into the fissure.… Rock Climbing
4-
Obří hlava
A long traverse to the left uphill edge. Rock Climbing
4-
Obří hlava
From the right uphill edge, a long traverse to the right into the downhill wall (ring).… Rock Climbing
3
Brtnický kostel
From the N from the adjacent massif, traverse left along the ledge, drop behind the NE… Rock Climbing
5
Obří hlava
To the right of the downhill edge, take the rib to the ledge. To the right through the… Rock Climbing
4+
Obří hlava
From the uphill side, take a crack to the platform and then go left up the wall to the… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Obří hlava
Through the center of the downhill south overhanging wall to the crack. Through the crack… Rock Climbing
6-
Brtnický kostel
4 m to the left of the downhill edge, up the wall and crack to the large balcony. Follow… Rock Climbing
6-
Brtnický kostel
At the blunt downhill edge, up the wall and crack to the large balcony. Up the wall to… Rock Climbing
5+
Brtnický kostel
Up the middle of the downhill pillar, bh over the hole to the large balcony and then… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Brtnický kostel
6 m to the left of the downhill edge in the W face, up the small chimney and the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Brtnický kostel
To the left of the Nákup route, up the wall to the bolt and diagonally left to the large… Rock Climbing
2+
Brtnický kostel
Far right in the E face under the overhang to the ledge, then left and diagonally left up… Rock Climbing
5+
Rybářská bašta
In the W face, up the wall over a ring into the chimney and up it to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Brtnický kostel
By the Old Route to the ledge, then further left along it and diagonally right up the… Rock Climbing

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