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Climbing at Lusatian Mountains

3192 routes
5 areas
1–10 grades

The Lusatian Mountains lie in northern Bohemia on the border with Saxony, between Nový Bor, Jablonné v Podještědí and Jiřetín pod Jedlovou, and continue into the German Zittau Mountains. The protected landscape area is made of wooded hills, some of them volcanic bodies exhumed from Cretaceous sediments – such as Jezevčí vrch of sodalite trachyte, protected as a national nature reserve – with sandstone rock towns and viewpoints between them such as Popova skála, Krkavčí skály and the Sloní kameny natural monument.

Climbing is mainly on firm sandstone. The best-known crags are Horní skály (Obrvégry) near Rynoltice, also suitable for beginners, and Falkenstein with Sokolík and the Cvičná věž towers above Dolní Světlá. Many routes at Horní skály were first climbed more than a century ago, some in 1904. Chalk is banned in the Lusatian and Jizera Mountains climbing areas and the sandstone rules apply. For Horní skály, park about 3 km from Rynoltice along road 13 just before the village; for Falkenstein, park free at the upper end of Dolní Světlá and follow the green trail to the border barrier, then 300 m left to the towers. Climbing is possible most of the year; summer weekends get crowded.

Part of Czech Republic, Lusatian Mountains has 3192 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 5 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Traditional Climbing, Sport Climbing.

Rules

On sandstone the ČHS sandstone rules apply – no chalk, no metal protection and dry rock only. On other rock the ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.

Much of the area lies in the Lusatian Mountains PLA. Check the ČHS crag database for any closures before you go.

5
Dvojče
Via the SE edge and right along ribs to the fore-summit, then over the overhang and up… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Dvojče
From the hourglass, traverse left (ring) and left to the edge, then via small cracks to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Dvojče
Via the West crack to the fore-summit and then freely to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
3
Dvojče
Via a groove in the N wall (hourglass) to the small overhang (hourglass), an overhanging… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Liberecká
Via a groove in the E wall under the overhang and a wide overhanging crack. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Liberecká
From the ring, left up the face and the left corner directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Liberecká
To the right in the W face, via a crack to the ridge and then via "Hřebenovka" (Ridge… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Sokol
To the right of the "Old Road" via a crumbly crack to the ledge and a step-up to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Sokol
Via the "Frýdlant Route" to the edge, then along the overhanging edge and face to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Sokol
Up the middle of the valley face over an overhang via a shallow gully to the ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Sokol
Along the Z-edge via an overhanging, indistinct rib to the ring of the "Frýdlant Route".… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Sokol
At the top, via the left gully. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Sokol
To the right in the SW face, via a short crack to the W edge and traverse right to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Sokol
Left in the SE face through a chimney to the ring, (post.) and a wide crack to the ridge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Sokol
In the middle of the SE face, via a crack to the ring, then up the right gully to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Sokol
Through the crack to the left of the "Old Road" onto the "Old Road" ledge. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Sokol
Via a 6m chimney and diagonally right onto the ridge and (then) via steps to the pre… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Sokol
Along the northern edge (arete) to the "Old Road" ledge. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Sokol
Overhanging V-edge over the hole, higher up to the right below the summit block. To the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Sokol
Up the chimney in the middle of the W face to the ledge (sling ring), to the pre-summit… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Zub
Variant of N. C. and left to the rounded valley edge, then over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Zub
By stepping over into the S wall, along the ledges, higher up the slab to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Zub
SW face to the right of the chimney to the platform. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
5
Zub
Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Zub
In the middle of the valley wall via a chimney (boulder) to the shoulder. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Zub
From SW via a crack, diagonally left to the fore-rock and then the overhanging small wall… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Zub
Along the southern edge (Bh) to the platform. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
4-
Zub
To the right in the NE face via a crack to the shoulder and (then) up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Ropucha
N face to the pulpit and further up the sloping wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Ropucha
To the left of NC from the fore-rock, left into the S wall and up to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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