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Climbing at Lusatian Mountains

3192 routes
5 areas
1–10 grades

The Lusatian Mountains lie in northern Bohemia on the border with Saxony, between Nový Bor, Jablonné v Podještědí and Jiřetín pod Jedlovou, and continue into the German Zittau Mountains. The protected landscape area is made of wooded hills, some of them volcanic bodies exhumed from Cretaceous sediments – such as Jezevčí vrch of sodalite trachyte, protected as a national nature reserve – with sandstone rock towns and viewpoints between them such as Popova skála, Krkavčí skály and the Sloní kameny natural monument.

Climbing is mainly on firm sandstone. The best-known crags are Horní skály (Obrvégry) near Rynoltice, also suitable for beginners, and Falkenstein with Sokolík and the Cvičná věž towers above Dolní Světlá. Many routes at Horní skály were first climbed more than a century ago, some in 1904. Chalk is banned in the Lusatian and Jizera Mountains climbing areas and the sandstone rules apply. For Horní skály, park about 3 km from Rynoltice along road 13 just before the village; for Falkenstein, park free at the upper end of Dolní Světlá and follow the green trail to the border barrier, then 300 m left to the towers. Climbing is possible most of the year; summer weekends get crowded.

Part of Czech Republic, Lusatian Mountains has 3192 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 5 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Traditional Climbing, Sport Climbing.

Rules

On sandstone the ČHS sandstone rules apply – no chalk, no metal protection and dry rock only. On other rock the ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.

Much of the area lies in the Lusatian Mountains PLA. Check the ČHS crag database for any closures before you go.

5+
Ropucha
Along the southern edge, higher up as the S wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Zub
To the right in the NE face via a crack to the shoulder and (then) up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Ropucha
From the boulder at the E wall via artificial steps. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Ropucha
Along the plateau edge to the left of NC to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Potupená skála
Left of the 'Tunnel' route, right in the S wall up a blunt edge to the large 'hodiny' … Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Rozeklaná skála
Right of the start of the 'Western Indentation' along the crack to the end, then right to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Rozeklaná skála
From the right into the wall of the SW pillar and diagonally left upwards under a band of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Rozeklaná skála
In the right part of the valley wall directly up the corner into the 'Western Indentation… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Rozeklaná skála
Left in the S wall up a chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Rozeklaná skála
Up the narrow (W) wall along the fault lines to the ring and higher to the 2nd bolt of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
6-
Rozeklaná skála
Up the center of the SE wall along the crack, higher up to the right to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Rozeklaná skála
Up the wall from the right along the east edge to the overhang. Up the crack over the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Rozeklaná skála
Left of the large window in the SW wall, up a crack to a ledge and from the right around… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Rozeklaná skála
Right in the SE wall to the ring. Diagonally right and to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Rozeklaná skála
Up the center of the NE wall by crack, higher up by chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Chrastenská stěna
From the lowest (E) base up the wall and along the overgrown edge over the pinnacle to… Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger +1
2+
Hodinář
From the saddle between the rock ridge and the main tower, left onto a ledge and around… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Hodinář
Up the narrow southeast face to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Hodinář
Up the chimney and wall from the northeast side. Rock Climbing
3
Hodinář
To the right of the left valley edge onto a ledge, up along the notch to the end of the… Rock Climbing
9/9+
Věž Kravího dolu (Podvršská věž)
In the valley wall, left of the pillar onto a ledge and right to the ring. Over the…
3
Trpaslík
From the southeast, up clear steps to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Trpaslík
Up the northwest edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Trpaslík
Easily up the overhanging northeast face to the hand crack. Up the crack, which widens… Rock Climbing
5
Kavčí skála
From the northwest, up a short crack to the fore-rock of the north face. Right up a crack… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Trpaslík
From the southwest plateau side using artificial steps to the summit. In 2001, one… Rock Climbing
5
Kavčí skála
Up the chimney in the right part of the west face to the pillar in the south face.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
Přeskok
Velbloudice
From the massif by traversing to the ridge and easily along it to the highest point. Rock Climbing
4
Velbloudice
In the right part of the north face, to the left of the West Route, via an earthy crack… Rock Climbing
3
Velbloudice
From the NE via a crack-chimney to the crossing of the UPLAND ROUTE.

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