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Climbing at Lusatian Mountains

3192 routes
5 areas
1–10 grades

The Lusatian Mountains lie in northern Bohemia on the border with Saxony, between Nový Bor, Jablonné v Podještědí and Jiřetín pod Jedlovou, and continue into the German Zittau Mountains. The protected landscape area is made of wooded hills, some of them volcanic bodies exhumed from Cretaceous sediments – such as Jezevčí vrch of sodalite trachyte, protected as a national nature reserve – with sandstone rock towns and viewpoints between them such as Popova skála, Krkavčí skály and the Sloní kameny natural monument.

Climbing is mainly on firm sandstone. The best-known crags are Horní skály (Obrvégry) near Rynoltice, also suitable for beginners, and Falkenstein with Sokolík and the Cvičná věž towers above Dolní Světlá. Many routes at Horní skály were first climbed more than a century ago, some in 1904. Chalk is banned in the Lusatian and Jizera Mountains climbing areas and the sandstone rules apply. For Horní skály, park about 3 km from Rynoltice along road 13 just before the village; for Falkenstein, park free at the upper end of Dolní Světlá and follow the green trail to the border barrier, then 300 m left to the towers. Climbing is possible most of the year; summer weekends get crowded.

Part of Czech Republic, Lusatian Mountains has 3192 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 5 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Traditional Climbing, Sport Climbing.

Rules

On sandstone the ČHS sandstone rules apply – no chalk, no metal protection and dry rock only. On other rock the ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.

Much of the area lies in the Lusatian Mountains PLA. Check the ČHS crag database for any closures before you go.

6
Hřib
Up the left valley edge to a step and up the face over 2 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2+
Strážovská věž
Over the overhang to the ledge, traverse right to the valley edge and to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Stolička
From the valley along the crack higher up the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Stolička
From the plateau to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Stolička
Left of the old route up to the crack and through it to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Stolička
To the right of the valley route via the chimney. Rock Climbing
5
Krásná vyhlídka
In the north face from the left over the overhang to the ledge, traverse right along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Malá kavčí skála
Through the chimney from the plateau side and right to the main summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Poslední masiv
Through the middle of the wall over BH to the ledge and freely to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Poslední masiv
By the socle and an upward surge up. Rock Climbing
3
Poslední masiv
By the edge to the ledge and freely up. Rock Climbing
5
Poslední masiv
By the edge over steps up. Rock Climbing
3
Poslední masiv
By the chimney crack to the ledge and freely up. Rock Climbing
4
Poslední masiv
By the fissure and the middle of the wall over steps up. Rock Climbing
5
Poslední masiv
By the wall along the edge to the ledge and freely up. Rock Climbing
6
Poslední masiv
By the wall over BH to the ledge and by the edge as a route. Do not let go of the edge up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Poslední masiv
By the wall to the ledge and left over BH up. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Poslední masiv
Through the corner over BH upwards and right through the corner over 2 BH up. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Poslední masiv
By the wall to the ledge and right by BH in the corner up. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Poslední masiv
By the small crack up. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Kokrháč
From the corner left by the crack to the balcony (K) and by the edge up. Fixed belay
3
Kokrháč
Right below the North crack by a step and a right-ascending ramp up.
8
Kokrháč
By the notch on the shelf and the socle over BH up. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8/8+
Kokrháč
By the wall to the shelf under the roof (clock). Over the roof (K) to the crack and up it… Fixed belay
4+

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