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Climbing at Lusatian Mountains

3192 routes
5 areas
1–10 grades

The Lusatian Mountains lie in northern Bohemia on the border with Saxony, between Nový Bor, Jablonné v Podještědí and Jiřetín pod Jedlovou, and continue into the German Zittau Mountains. The protected landscape area is made of wooded hills, some of them volcanic bodies exhumed from Cretaceous sediments – such as Jezevčí vrch of sodalite trachyte, protected as a national nature reserve – with sandstone rock towns and viewpoints between them such as Popova skála, Krkavčí skály and the Sloní kameny natural monument.

Climbing is mainly on firm sandstone. The best-known crags are Horní skály (Obrvégry) near Rynoltice, also suitable for beginners, and Falkenstein with Sokolík and the Cvičná věž towers above Dolní Světlá. Many routes at Horní skály were first climbed more than a century ago, some in 1904. Chalk is banned in the Lusatian and Jizera Mountains climbing areas and the sandstone rules apply. For Horní skály, park about 3 km from Rynoltice along road 13 just before the village; for Falkenstein, park free at the upper end of Dolní Světlá and follow the green trail to the border barrier, then 300 m left to the towers. Climbing is possible most of the year; summer weekends get crowded.

Part of Czech Republic, Lusatian Mountains has 3192 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 5 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Traditional Climbing, Sport Climbing.

Rules

On sandstone the ČHS sandstone rules apply – no chalk, no metal protection and dry rock only. On other rock the ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.

Much of the area lies in the Lusatian Mountains PLA. Check the ČHS crag database for any closures before you go.

6-
Kurník
By the corner over 2 BHs (bolts) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8
Kurník
Left of the small corner, with difficulty by a small wall to the ledge BH (bolt) and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Kokrháč
Through the middle of the E wall by a chimney to the top.
3
Kurník
Briefly by a crack and fissure to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Kurník
By the inclined wall, later by a system of corners to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Kurník
By the inclined wall over BH (bolt) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Kurník
Via the Kokrhel route over 2 BHs (bolts) to the shelf and left to a flake (point). By a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Kurník
Through the middle of the wall over 3 BHs (bolts) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Kurník
By a crack into the corner and right by the edge to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Kurník
By a small pillar into the notch and left by a slab BH (bolt), higher by the edge to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Kurník
At the blunt edge to 1 BH (bolt) directly over 2 BHs (bolts) to a large ledge. From there… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Kurník
In the right part of the wall along the blunt edge and by the wall into the corner BH … Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Kurník
Along a small crack to Bh (bolt) and slightly left to another Bh (bolt) directly to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Kurník
By an inclined hand crack to the ledge. Rock Climbing
3
Kurník
Along the crack to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Kurník
By the wall and gully to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Kuřátka
SE edge over BH (bolt) to the top. Fixed belay
3
Kuřátka
In the south face by a crack running left to the balcony St. c. Tou to the top.
6-
Kuřátka
From the block by the SE edge, step over and with difficulty over BH (bolt) to the top. Fixed belay
5+
Kuřátka
Left in the south face by a short wall to the balcony St. c. Tou to the top.
5
Kuřátka
NW edge to the balcony St. c. Tou to the top.
5
Kuřátka
NW edge over a pointed stone to the balcony St. c. Tou to the top.
5+
Kuřátka
NW edge, up on the right side to the top.
4-
Kuřátka
To the right in the East wall to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Kuřátka
Via the NE edge to the top.
5
Kuřátka
To the right in the North wall diagonally left to the edge and to the top.
3
Kuřátka
To the left via the East wall to the top.
3
Kuřátka
From 'Little Chick' step over/traverse to the balcony St. C. By that to the top.

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