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Climbing at Lusatian Mountains

3192 routes
5 areas
1–10 grades

The Lusatian Mountains lie in northern Bohemia on the border with Saxony, between Nový Bor, Jablonné v Podještědí and Jiřetín pod Jedlovou, and continue into the German Zittau Mountains. The protected landscape area is made of wooded hills, some of them volcanic bodies exhumed from Cretaceous sediments – such as Jezevčí vrch of sodalite trachyte, protected as a national nature reserve – with sandstone rock towns and viewpoints between them such as Popova skála, Krkavčí skály and the Sloní kameny natural monument.

Climbing is mainly on firm sandstone. The best-known crags are Horní skály (Obrvégry) near Rynoltice, also suitable for beginners, and Falkenstein with Sokolík and the Cvičná věž towers above Dolní Světlá. Many routes at Horní skály were first climbed more than a century ago, some in 1904. Chalk is banned in the Lusatian and Jizera Mountains climbing areas and the sandstone rules apply. For Horní skály, park about 3 km from Rynoltice along road 13 just before the village; for Falkenstein, park free at the upper end of Dolní Světlá and follow the green trail to the border barrier, then 300 m left to the towers. Climbing is possible most of the year; summer weekends get crowded.

Part of Czech Republic, Lusatian Mountains has 3192 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 5 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Traditional Climbing, Sport Climbing.

Rules

On sandstone the ČHS sandstone rules apply – no chalk, no metal protection and dry rock only. On other rock the ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.

Much of the area lies in the Lusatian Mountains PLA. Check the ČHS crag database for any closures before you go.

3
Borovák
From the St. c. ledge to the right towards the valley wall.
6
Borovák
Up the wall to the ledge and left to the circle "Siblings' c.". To the right through a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Ořech
Up the South ridge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Ořech
Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Ořech
Up the middle of the NE face to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Ořech
Up the East ridge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Divoká
Through the middle of the uphill wall briefly to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Divoká
Over the small roof and directly via the wall over the bolt to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Divoká
Via the left part of the valley wall directly to the bolt, diagonally right to the 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Divoká
Via the wall near the arête, over the bolt to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2+
Divoká
Left on the uphill side via a short wall to the summit.
7
Červený trpaslík
Up the crack. Rock Climbing
5+
Červený trpaslík
Up the cracks and gully etc.
3
Červený trpaslík
Up the chimney and overhang etc.
3
Červený trpaslík
Through the crack to the 'patest' and arbitrarily up. Rock Climbing
7
Červený trpaslík
Up the crack. Rock Climbing
2+
Červený trpaslík
Up the chimney and overhang.
7-/7
Červený trpaslík
Up the wall along the edge via the 1st ring to the ledge and from the left via the 2nd… Fixed belay
2
Červený trpaslík
Up the chimney. Rock Climbing
6
Červený trpaslík
Along the edge to the ledge, through the crack over the ring into a wide crack and up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Červený trpaslík
Middle of the wall along a thin crack to the ledge and directly up over the ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Červený trpaslík
Up the wall over the ledge, etc. Rock Climbing
6-
Podkova
Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5+
Podkova
From the tourist path, via the small chimney, up the wall to the ledge, and along it to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Podkova
From the SW over blocks to the ledge, (by aid climbing) up the wall (dBH) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Podkova
Access from the other side from the tourist path. Along the right edge to the first ring,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Podkova
As Std. route to the ledge (added Bh). From the block traverse right into the NE face and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7
Škuner
Through the corner and left via the ramp to the small pine tree. Diagonally right along… Rock Climbing
7
Škuner
Through the left part of the slab over two rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Škuner
From the 1st ring of the "Alternate Route" traverse right to the 2nd ring and straight up. Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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