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Climbing at Lusatian Mountains

3192 routes
5 areas
1–10 grades

The Lusatian Mountains lie in northern Bohemia on the border with Saxony, between Nový Bor, Jablonné v Podještědí and Jiřetín pod Jedlovou, and continue into the German Zittau Mountains. The protected landscape area is made of wooded hills, some of them volcanic bodies exhumed from Cretaceous sediments – such as Jezevčí vrch of sodalite trachyte, protected as a national nature reserve – with sandstone rock towns and viewpoints between them such as Popova skála, Krkavčí skály and the Sloní kameny natural monument.

Climbing is mainly on firm sandstone. The best-known crags are Horní skály (Obrvégry) near Rynoltice, also suitable for beginners, and Falkenstein with Sokolík and the Cvičná věž towers above Dolní Světlá. Many routes at Horní skály were first climbed more than a century ago, some in 1904. Chalk is banned in the Lusatian and Jizera Mountains climbing areas and the sandstone rules apply. For Horní skály, park about 3 km from Rynoltice along road 13 just before the village; for Falkenstein, park free at the upper end of Dolní Světlá and follow the green trail to the border barrier, then 300 m left to the towers. Climbing is possible most of the year; summer weekends get crowded.

Part of Czech Republic, Lusatian Mountains has 3192 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 5 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Traditional Climbing, Sport Climbing.

Rules

On sandstone the ČHS sandstone rules apply – no chalk, no metal protection and dry rock only. On other rock the ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.

Much of the area lies in the Lusatian Mountains PLA. Check the ČHS crag database for any closures before you go.

7
Škuner
Through the corner and left via the ramp to the small pine tree. Diagonally right along… Rock Climbing
5
Pavéza
Along the crack to the ring and straight up. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Pavéza
Over the overhang to the ledge, to the ring, from the left onto the slab and to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Pavéza
Through the North face over the ring to the right onto the edge and along it to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Škuner
In the valley wall, through the chimney with a jammed boulder. Rock Climbing
3
Pavéza
Through the straddling chimney between the tower and M to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Pavéza
Along the upper/plateau edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Pavéza
From the edge. Rock Climbing
4
Listopadová
Along the left valley edge to the ledge and from the right to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Listopadová
From the right onto the right valley edge. Along it to the first ledge and over the bulge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Listopadová
Through the middle of the valley wall to the second ledge, from the right to the ring and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2+
Listopadová
2
Listopadová
Along the South edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Stoupa
Along the edge (ring), higher up to the right by the wall (2nd ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Stoupa
Through the upper wall via the ring to the smooth summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Mrož
Via the gully/chimney, wall, edge, and wall over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Stoupa
Via the right valley edge over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Tuleni
Along the edge on ledges up to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Tuleni
Right of the "W crack" through the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
5
Tuleni
Rock Climbing
3
Tuleni
Left in the SE face through the crack to the summit. note: 1st documented ascent -… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Tuleni
Through the overhang into the chimney and through it to the W summit, step over to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Tuleni
From SE through the right chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Tuleni
Through the overhanging ramp into the corner, then to the small balcony with the pine… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Tuleni
Up the ramp to the ledge and through the center of the smooth wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Lupen
Up the small wall into the crack and through it to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Lupen
Up the wall to the crack, through it and the wall over the ring directly. Fixed belay
2
Tuleni
From NW through the chimney to the northern fore-summit, step over to the main summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Lupen
From the East via a sloping gully to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Lupen
Through the crack, higher up through the chimney Rock Climbing

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