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Climbing at Lusatian Mountains

3192 routes
5 areas
1–10 grades

The Lusatian Mountains lie in northern Bohemia on the border with Saxony, between Nový Bor, Jablonné v Podještědí and Jiřetín pod Jedlovou, and continue into the German Zittau Mountains. The protected landscape area is made of wooded hills, some of them volcanic bodies exhumed from Cretaceous sediments – such as Jezevčí vrch of sodalite trachyte, protected as a national nature reserve – with sandstone rock towns and viewpoints between them such as Popova skála, Krkavčí skály and the Sloní kameny natural monument.

Climbing is mainly on firm sandstone. The best-known crags are Horní skály (Obrvégry) near Rynoltice, also suitable for beginners, and Falkenstein with Sokolík and the Cvičná věž towers above Dolní Světlá. Many routes at Horní skály were first climbed more than a century ago, some in 1904. Chalk is banned in the Lusatian and Jizera Mountains climbing areas and the sandstone rules apply. For Horní skály, park about 3 km from Rynoltice along road 13 just before the village; for Falkenstein, park free at the upper end of Dolní Světlá and follow the green trail to the border barrier, then 300 m left to the towers. Climbing is possible most of the year; summer weekends get crowded.

Part of Czech Republic, Lusatian Mountains has 3192 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 5 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Traditional Climbing, Sport Climbing.

Rules

On sandstone the ČHS sandstone rules apply – no chalk, no metal protection and dry rock only. On other rock the ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.

Much of the area lies in the Lusatian Mountains PLA. Check the ČHS crag database for any closures before you go.

2
Juliina vyhlídka
From M jump, or step over II, upwards. Rock Climbing
4-
Juliina vyhlídka
Through the chimney between the massif and the tower over the overhang (Bh) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Juliina vyhlídka
Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Džbán (Molkenkrug, Krhanice)
From the SE from the ledge along the crack to the ledge, left to the SE route ledge and… Rock Climbing
5+
Džbán (Molkenkrug, Krhanice)
2 m to the right of the NE route up the wall (artificial steps) to the rings and K… Fixed belay
6
Džbán (Molkenkrug, Krhanice)
From the ring up the wall to the right to the SE route ledge. Rock Climbing
7
Džbán (Molkenkrug, Krhanice)
On the left in the W side, hand crack to the ledge. Briefly on the friction on the SE… Rock Climbing
7
Džbán (Molkenkrug, Krhanice)
Along the edge to the large SE route ledge, along it to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Džbán (Molkenkrug, Krhanice)
From the gallery on the SE side, up the gully to the ledge (ring), traverse left to the… Rock Climbing
5+
Džbán (Molkenkrug, Krhanice)
Through the center of the NW wall to K and further to the large St. c. balcony and over… Fixed belay
5
Panenský kámen
Up the wall by the left edge of the SW wall to the ledge and crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Panenský kámen
From a fine crack directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Panenský kámen
In the SW wall, traverse right from the block to the rings. Directly across the ring to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Džbán (Molkenkrug, Krhanice)
Traverse from the left into the crack, along it to the ledge (ring), via the SE route to… Rock Climbing
4+
Džbán (Molkenkrug, Krhanice)
To the right of the S edge, up the gully to the ledge (rings). (Standing) on the 2nd… Fixed belay
4-
Panenský kámen
Through the center of the NE face to the "clock" feature and left along a rib to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Panenský kámen
Left of the SW chimney to a large balcony. Left and via Stará cesta to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Panenský kámen
From the uphill side (NW) up the wall (artificial steps) to a large balcony and then to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Panenský kámen
2 m left of "Stará cesta" (Old Route), up the wall and crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Horní Jelení věž
On the right in the east face, through a corner and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Horní Jelení věž
With a swing move at the left downhill edge to a ledge, traverse right to the center of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Horní Jelení věž
From the right onto the downhill (SE) edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Modřínová věžička
At the left uphill edge, build a double stack to the summit. Without stacking - VIIb Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Modřínová věžička
In the right part of the uphill face to the edge. Along it to a bolt, about 2 meters to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Horní Jelení věž
From NW (at the block) up the wall and right to the balcony into the downhill wall.… Rock Climbing
2+
Horní Jelení věž
From the outcrop in the saddle up the wall (artificial steps) to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Dolní Jelení věž
From W, from the right to the balcony, overhang into a large hole, through it and left to… Rock Climbing
4-
Dolní Jelení věž
Like the old path. After climbing through the big hole to the left and more difficult to… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Dolní Jelení věž
Overhanging right uphill edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Dolní Jelení věž
Like "Easter Road" and directly to the summit. Rock Climbing

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