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Climbing at Lusatian Mountains

3192 routes
5 areas
1–10 grades

The Lusatian Mountains lie in northern Bohemia on the border with Saxony, between Nový Bor, Jablonné v Podještědí and Jiřetín pod Jedlovou, and continue into the German Zittau Mountains. The protected landscape area is made of wooded hills, some of them volcanic bodies exhumed from Cretaceous sediments – such as Jezevčí vrch of sodalite trachyte, protected as a national nature reserve – with sandstone rock towns and viewpoints between them such as Popova skála, Krkavčí skály and the Sloní kameny natural monument.

Climbing is mainly on firm sandstone. The best-known crags are Horní skály (Obrvégry) near Rynoltice, also suitable for beginners, and Falkenstein with Sokolík and the Cvičná věž towers above Dolní Světlá. Many routes at Horní skály were first climbed more than a century ago, some in 1904. Chalk is banned in the Lusatian and Jizera Mountains climbing areas and the sandstone rules apply. For Horní skály, park about 3 km from Rynoltice along road 13 just before the village; for Falkenstein, park free at the upper end of Dolní Světlá and follow the green trail to the border barrier, then 300 m left to the towers. Climbing is possible most of the year; summer weekends get crowded.

Part of Czech Republic, Lusatian Mountains has 3192 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 5 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Traditional Climbing, Sport Climbing.

Rules

On sandstone the ČHS sandstone rules apply – no chalk, no metal protection and dry rock only. On other rock the ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.

Much of the area lies in the Lusatian Mountains PLA. Check the ČHS crag database for any closures before you go.

5+
Dolní Jelení věž
Overhanging left uphill edge, then left and to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Dolní Jelení věž
From the start of the "Old Path" in the NW wall directly over BH n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Dolní Jelení věž
From the center of the SE face, along the edge and right to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Malá Haberská věž
Jump from the Hornbeam Tower n. v.
4+
Malá Haberská věž
NE edge to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Malá Haberská věž
To the right of the Old Path, wall to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Malá Haberská věž
On the left in the W wall, fragile crack (loop) to the clocks and directly n. v. Variant:… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
?
Malá Haberská věž
Right of the W wall, above obliquely to the right (added ring) to the balcony and n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
2+
Malá Haberská věž
From the scree (E) wall over artificial steps to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Haberská věž
In the left part of the downhill wall to the ledge (belay) into a chimney, higher… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Haberská věž
From the Small Haber Tower by overhang and standing to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Haberská věž
Through the center of the downhill wall to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Malá Haberská věž
SE edge and crack to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Sudokopytník
Approx. 2m to the right of c. Whoever seeks finds the wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Haberská věž
Along the left uphill edge upwards to the top. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Sudokopytník
Overhanging lateral (NW) edge of the secondary peak to the clocks, left and swing to the… Rock Climbing Danger Overhang
6
Haberská věž
In the right part of the downhill wall over BH and clocks directly n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Haberská věž
Uphill wall and overhang directly to the top. Rock Climbing
2+
Haberská věž
From the scree on the right, wall (artificial steps) behind the edge and a short crack to… Rock Climbing
3
Sudokopytník
On the uphill side, to the right of St. c. wall directly n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Sudokopytník
By a chimney between both halves of the tower, n. v. Rock Climbing
5+
Beckertův kámen
In the west face, by the face and a chimney to a ring. To the right to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Beckertův kámen
From the ring of the route "Magical" directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Sudokopytník
In the uphill wall to the left of St. c. wall and the crack rib n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Sudokopytník
Around the downhill SW edge over BH, notch to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Sudokopytník
Downhill wall over K directly to the main summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
5
Ztracený vodník
From the left by an upper edge directly, n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Beckertův kámen
From the east by a chimney and an edge directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Ztracený vodník
From the valley, to the right of a cave onto a ledge and by a fragile face over a K, n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Ztracený vodník
By the south face over a clock to a K and to the left, n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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