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Climbing at Milenecká hora

522 routes
166 areas
1–10 grades

Milenecká hora in the Adršpach Rocks offers more than 520 routes – most on Milenci (the Lovers), with more on Alpská, Hrad, Hadí, Mošna and Krokodýl. The climbing is traditional on vertical sandstone walls with rings and textile protection; grades from 1 to 10.

Part of Adršpach Rocks, Milenecká hora has 522 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 166 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Spare Route, Vertical wall.

Rules

- Do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks, do not remove stones, wood and organic matter from cracks - Use tourist routes and marked access paths for access - Do not disturb nesting birds, climb only on dry rocks in shoes with soft soles - Belay with fixed means and textile loops, do not rub the rock with rope, do not chop - Magnesium is prohibited, climb only in daylight - First ascents only by ČHS members, training max 3 people with instructor

Nature protection: Seasonal climbing ban from January 1 to June 30. Nature Protection Document: OP measure 2019, OP authority PLA Broumovsko

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.61697, 16.12254

Milenci 24 routes Alpská 13 routes Hrad 12 routes Hadí 12 routes Mošna 12 routes Krokodýl 11 routes Cherubín 10 routes Trojník 10 routes Čtyři apoštolové 10 routes Přílba 9 routes Uhlířská 8 routes Tři bratři 8 routes Lesník 8 routes Řeřicha 7 routes Baloun 6 routes Vřesová 6 routes Kvarteto 6 routes Majka 5 routes Hvízdavý Dan 5 routes Rádža 5 routes Lidový vypravěč 5 routes Křídlo 5 routes Gondola 5 routes Mláďata 5 routes Bragliho věž 5 routes Citadela 5 routes Dálkový student 5 routes Čtyři panny 5 routes Gigolo 5 routes Schodiště 5 routes Baronesa 5 routes Lesáček 4 routes Rytíř Žumbera 4 routes Pidikřístek 4 routes Lvice 4 routes Culík 4 routes Klakvakrakve 4 routes Jebáček 4 routes Bulík 4 routes Divá Bára 4 routes Podhoubí 4 routes Citrónová 4 routes Amor 4 routes Vosí věž 4 routes Pometlo 4 routes Placka 4 routes Zářijová 4 routes Pásovec 4 routes Leslie 4 routes Baba Jaga 4 routes Malý vyzobanec 3 routes Adam a Eva 3 routes Amazonka 3 routes Doskočiště 3 routes Miláček 3 routes Zamazaná 3 routes Tři sestry 3 routes Blembák 3 routes Zapadlá 3 routes Samotář 3 routes Křen 3 routes Psance 3 routes Veselá kráva 3 routes Pilíř 3 routes Ferda 3 routes Kulich 3 routes Caparti 3 routes Pipp 3 routes Rosignano 3 routes Sultán 3 routes Serafíno 3 routes Eros 3 routes Šefildská věž 3 routes Syneček 3 routes Husopaska 2 routes Bedřich 2 routes Batyskaf 2 routes Svišť 2 routes Brundibár 2 routes Trioleta 2 routes Violeta 2 routes Pacínek 2 routes Jehlička 2 routes Včelař 2 routes Amok 2 routes Užovka 2 routes Fořt 2 routes Kupido 2 routes Spací strýc 2 routes Mamička 2 routes Roraima 2 routes Tampon 2 routes Bruno 2 routes Outloň váhavý 2 routes Hermafrodit 2 routes Malá starostová 2 routes Smolíček pacholíček 2 routes Setmělík 2 routes Vintentou 2 routes Krakonoš 2 routes Ringo 2 routes Rejpal 2 routes Skořepka 2 routes Nuncius 2 routes Kadet Biegler 2 routes Dvojhlavá 2 routes Kvakvakvokoax 2 routes Zoologická zahrada 2 routes Štěně 2 routes Kotě 2 routes Konipas 2 routes Bedýnka 2 routes Páteční 2 routes Moceček 2 routes Fachman Lorenc 1 route Adršpašský endemit 1 route Sokolík 1 route Sklerotik 1 route Tomahavk 1 route Kódl 1 route Vikýřník 1 route Lidoop 1 route Pikoušek 1 route Mecháček 1 route Major Tom 1 route Punková věžička 1 route Krávoš 1 route Kurfiřt 1 route Rasputin 1 route Hona 1 route Kabelka 1 route Lembejk 1 route Kapoun 1 route Zloduch 1 route Eden 1 route Duch 1 route Padesátá první hvězdička 1 route Žižiho věž 1 route Nick 1 route Palivec 1 route Adjunkt 1 route Helma 1 route Pohodářka 1 route Chameleon 1 route Peršing 1 route Lalubi 1 route Šipzároš 1 route Úl 1 route Kleofáš 1 route Kozlíček Dazule 1 route Felina 1 route Strážce Smaragdové rokle 1 route Zejval 1 route Narozeninová jehla 1 route Amorek 1 route Hranolek 1 route Sfingička 1 route Tlusťoch 1 route Zapomnětlivec 1 route Rodinná hrobka 1 route Tadyk 1 route Pryskyřník 1 route Jára Cimrman 1 route Šmírácká vyhlídka 1 route Amorův šíp 1 route Prduch 1 route
2+
Vintentou
Up the high wall to the saddle and then via the gully to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Vintentou
In the right part of the valley (eastern) wall via a corner crack, traverse left along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5
Pryskyřník
In the upper (NW) wall along the crack to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Čtyři panny
By the left NE crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
4-
Čtyři panny
By the middle SW crack over the overhang and by a chimney to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
4+
Čtyři panny
By the middle NE crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
4-
Čtyři panny
By the left SW corner crack to the 'leaf' and along the narrow crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
6+/7-
Nuncius
From SE by the right part of the valley wall (4 rings) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7-/7
Nuncius
In the left part of the valley wall by a crack, higher up left by the wall along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4-
Padesátá první hvězdička
From the upper side by a chimney in the corner to the pillar. By stemming and a small… Rock Climbing
4+
Vikýřník
By the right part of the upper wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger
2
Zejval
By a short chimney to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
Přeskok
Doskočiště
By the left upper chimney to the pillar. Traverse to the second pillar and up the wall to… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Doskočiště
From SE by a gully and chimney to the pillar. Via the 'Downhill to Uphill' route to the… Rock Climbing
2+
Doskočiště
From the upper side by the right chimney and wall to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Zapomnětlivec
From SW by a crack and chimney (pine) to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Veselá kráva
In the right part of the valley wall by a crack to the fore-summit and c. "Automatic… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Veselá kráva
From the valley side by a crack to the pillar. Up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Veselá kráva
From the upper side by a chimney and edge to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Tlusťoch
From the passage between Bulík and Tlusťoch by a slanted crack to the end (ring). Lift to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Šmírácká vyhlídka
By the corner chimney to the balcony and along fine small ledges to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Smolíček pacholíček
Through the chimney in the valley (SW) wall to the pillar (ring), traverse and by a crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Smolíček pacholíček
Along the upper edge and left by a crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Punková věžička
Via a chimney and higher up via the wall along the left edge to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Rejpal
Via the upper wall from the left to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Rejpal
Via the valley edge to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Narozeninová jehla
Via the upper edge (ring) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Peršing
Via a chimney through the constriction to the ring. Left into the wall and via it to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Malý vyzobanec
Via the wall along the east edge to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Malý vyzobanec
Via the upper edge to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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