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Climbing at Milenecká hora

522 routes
166 areas
1–10 grades

Milenecká hora in the Adršpach Rocks offers more than 520 routes – most on Milenci (the Lovers), with more on Alpská, Hrad, Hadí, Mošna and Krokodýl. The climbing is traditional on vertical sandstone walls with rings and textile protection; grades from 1 to 10.

Part of Adršpach Rocks, Milenecká hora has 522 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 166 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Spare Route, Vertical wall.

Rules

- Do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks, do not remove stones, wood and organic matter from cracks - Use tourist routes and marked access paths for access - Do not disturb nesting birds, climb only on dry rocks in shoes with soft soles - Belay with fixed means and textile loops, do not rub the rock with rope, do not chop - Magnesium is prohibited, climb only in daylight - First ascents only by ČHS members, training max 3 people with instructor

Nature protection: Seasonal climbing ban from January 1 to June 30. Nature Protection Document: OP measure 2019, OP authority PLA Broumovsko

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.61697, 16.12254

Milenci 24 routes Alpská 13 routes Hrad 12 routes Hadí 12 routes Mošna 12 routes Krokodýl 11 routes Cherubín 10 routes Trojník 10 routes Čtyři apoštolové 10 routes Přílba 9 routes Uhlířská 8 routes Tři bratři 8 routes Lesník 8 routes Řeřicha 7 routes Baloun 6 routes Vřesová 6 routes Kvarteto 6 routes Majka 5 routes Hvízdavý Dan 5 routes Rádža 5 routes Lidový vypravěč 5 routes Křídlo 5 routes Gondola 5 routes Mláďata 5 routes Bragliho věž 5 routes Citadela 5 routes Dálkový student 5 routes Čtyři panny 5 routes Gigolo 5 routes Schodiště 5 routes Baronesa 5 routes Lesáček 4 routes Rytíř Žumbera 4 routes Pidikřístek 4 routes Lvice 4 routes Culík 4 routes Klakvakrakve 4 routes Jebáček 4 routes Bulík 4 routes Divá Bára 4 routes Podhoubí 4 routes Citrónová 4 routes Amor 4 routes Vosí věž 4 routes Pometlo 4 routes Placka 4 routes Zářijová 4 routes Pásovec 4 routes Leslie 4 routes Baba Jaga 4 routes Malý vyzobanec 3 routes Adam a Eva 3 routes Amazonka 3 routes Doskočiště 3 routes Miláček 3 routes Zamazaná 3 routes Tři sestry 3 routes Blembák 3 routes Zapadlá 3 routes Samotář 3 routes Křen 3 routes Psance 3 routes Veselá kráva 3 routes Pilíř 3 routes Ferda 3 routes Kulich 3 routes Caparti 3 routes Pipp 3 routes Rosignano 3 routes Sultán 3 routes Serafíno 3 routes Eros 3 routes Šefildská věž 3 routes Syneček 3 routes Husopaska 2 routes Bedřich 2 routes Batyskaf 2 routes Svišť 2 routes Brundibár 2 routes Trioleta 2 routes Violeta 2 routes Pacínek 2 routes Jehlička 2 routes Včelař 2 routes Amok 2 routes Užovka 2 routes Fořt 2 routes Kupido 2 routes Spací strýc 2 routes Mamička 2 routes Roraima 2 routes Tampon 2 routes Bruno 2 routes Outloň váhavý 2 routes Hermafrodit 2 routes Malá starostová 2 routes Smolíček pacholíček 2 routes Setmělík 2 routes Vintentou 2 routes Krakonoš 2 routes Ringo 2 routes Rejpal 2 routes Skořepka 2 routes Nuncius 2 routes Kadet Biegler 2 routes Dvojhlavá 2 routes Kvakvakvokoax 2 routes Zoologická zahrada 2 routes Štěně 2 routes Kotě 2 routes Konipas 2 routes Bedýnka 2 routes Páteční 2 routes Moceček 2 routes Fachman Lorenc 1 route Adršpašský endemit 1 route Sokolík 1 route Sklerotik 1 route Tomahavk 1 route Kódl 1 route Vikýřník 1 route Lidoop 1 route Pikoušek 1 route Mecháček 1 route Major Tom 1 route Punková věžička 1 route Krávoš 1 route Kurfiřt 1 route Rasputin 1 route Hona 1 route Kabelka 1 route Lembejk 1 route Kapoun 1 route Zloduch 1 route Eden 1 route Duch 1 route Padesátá první hvězdička 1 route Žižiho věž 1 route Nick 1 route Palivec 1 route Adjunkt 1 route Helma 1 route Pohodářka 1 route Chameleon 1 route Peršing 1 route Lalubi 1 route Šipzároš 1 route Úl 1 route Kleofáš 1 route Kozlíček Dazule 1 route Felina 1 route Strážce Smaragdové rokle 1 route Zejval 1 route Narozeninová jehla 1 route Amorek 1 route Hranolek 1 route Sfingička 1 route Tlusťoch 1 route Zapomnětlivec 1 route Rodinná hrobka 1 route Tadyk 1 route Pryskyřník 1 route Jára Cimrman 1 route Šmírácká vyhlídka 1 route Amorův šíp 1 route Prduch 1 route
5+
Zapadlá
To the right of the "Náhradní" (Alternative) route, up the wall to the right (bolt) into… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Pásovec
From the south, via the corner crack to the sub-summit. A high step onto the ledge and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Pásovec
In the left part of the NE wall, via a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Pásovec
Through the northern corner to the sub-summit. A high step onto the ledge and then a… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Textile belay
4
Pásovec
From the upper gorge, via a crack to the saddle and then the wall to the small pillar.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Zapadlá
From the plateau side, by building, crack, and gully to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Mláďata
Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Mláďata
From the plateau side, via a system of cracks to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Mláďata
In the valley (SE) wall, by the right corner crack, higher up to the right by the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Mláďata
Approach on the NW side at the big tree. From the left, up the wall (Q) to the balcony,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Užovka
From NE (between Užovka and Hadí) via a crack, higher up via an off-width chimney to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Užovka
In the right part of the wall via a crack and chimney onto a pillar, via a small crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Cherubín
Right of the route "Children's Cry" via a narrow crack to the ring. Via a crack and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5+
Cherubín
In the right part of the NE wall (between Cherubin and the block) via a crack over the… Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
6-
Cherubín
Via a crack into the chimney and by the "Straddle" route to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Cherubín
Via the left NE crack and chimney to the plateau. Then via the traverse route to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Cherubín
Left of the Viva Rita route via a narrow crack into a chimney, through it and a crack to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Cherubín
In the right part of the SW wall in the corner via a falconet-like feature and the wall … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
Přeskok
Cherubín
From the summit of Adam and Eve by jumping onto the balcony to the ring and then up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Cherubín
In the middle of the SW wall via a system of cracks into a chimney, then by crawling… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Cherubín
From the SW via a chimney between Cherubin and Majka to the saddle. From the left up the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Cherubín
Right of the Viva Rita route via a crack to the pillars and left along the edge to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Moceček
Up the SE wall right, 1st pitch into the corner, then 2nd pitch through it and along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Adam a Eva
From the SW via a chimney into the interior. Right via a crack and chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Adam a Eva
Right of the North Route via a falconet-like feature and chimney to the ring. Then via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7-/7
Adam a Eva
From the NE via a chimney under the overhang and left along the wall to the 1st ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Moceček
Up the high (SW) wall diagonally right over a small balcony (ring) and along the edge to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Laid wall
6-
Kotě
Along the valley edge (2 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Kotě
From the block at the right high edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Čtyři panny
By the right NE crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route

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