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Climbing at Milenecká hora

522 routes
166 areas
1–10 grades

Milenecká hora in the Adršpach Rocks offers more than 520 routes – most on Milenci (the Lovers), with more on Alpská, Hrad, Hadí, Mošna and Krokodýl. The climbing is traditional on vertical sandstone walls with rings and textile protection; grades from 1 to 10.

Part of Adršpach Rocks, Milenecká hora has 522 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 166 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Spare Route, Vertical wall.

Rules

- Do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks, do not remove stones, wood and organic matter from cracks - Use tourist routes and marked access paths for access - Do not disturb nesting birds, climb only on dry rocks in shoes with soft soles - Belay with fixed means and textile loops, do not rub the rock with rope, do not chop - Magnesium is prohibited, climb only in daylight - First ascents only by ČHS members, training max 3 people with instructor

Nature protection: Seasonal climbing ban from January 1 to June 30. Nature Protection Document: OP measure 2019, OP authority PLA Broumovsko

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.61697, 16.12254

Milenci 24 routes Alpská 13 routes Hrad 12 routes Hadí 12 routes Mošna 12 routes Krokodýl 11 routes Cherubín 10 routes Trojník 10 routes Čtyři apoštolové 10 routes Přílba 9 routes Uhlířská 8 routes Tři bratři 8 routes Lesník 8 routes Řeřicha 7 routes Baloun 6 routes Vřesová 6 routes Kvarteto 6 routes Majka 5 routes Hvízdavý Dan 5 routes Rádža 5 routes Lidový vypravěč 5 routes Křídlo 5 routes Gondola 5 routes Mláďata 5 routes Bragliho věž 5 routes Citadela 5 routes Dálkový student 5 routes Čtyři panny 5 routes Gigolo 5 routes Schodiště 5 routes Baronesa 5 routes Lesáček 4 routes Rytíř Žumbera 4 routes Pidikřístek 4 routes Lvice 4 routes Culík 4 routes Klakvakrakve 4 routes Jebáček 4 routes Bulík 4 routes Divá Bára 4 routes Podhoubí 4 routes Citrónová 4 routes Amor 4 routes Vosí věž 4 routes Pometlo 4 routes Placka 4 routes Zářijová 4 routes Pásovec 4 routes Leslie 4 routes Baba Jaga 4 routes Malý vyzobanec 3 routes Adam a Eva 3 routes Amazonka 3 routes Doskočiště 3 routes Miláček 3 routes Zamazaná 3 routes Tři sestry 3 routes Blembák 3 routes Zapadlá 3 routes Samotář 3 routes Křen 3 routes Psance 3 routes Veselá kráva 3 routes Pilíř 3 routes Ferda 3 routes Kulich 3 routes Caparti 3 routes Pipp 3 routes Rosignano 3 routes Sultán 3 routes Serafíno 3 routes Eros 3 routes Šefildská věž 3 routes Syneček 3 routes Husopaska 2 routes Bedřich 2 routes Batyskaf 2 routes Svišť 2 routes Brundibár 2 routes Trioleta 2 routes Violeta 2 routes Pacínek 2 routes Jehlička 2 routes Včelař 2 routes Amok 2 routes Užovka 2 routes Fořt 2 routes Kupido 2 routes Spací strýc 2 routes Mamička 2 routes Roraima 2 routes Tampon 2 routes Bruno 2 routes Outloň váhavý 2 routes Hermafrodit 2 routes Malá starostová 2 routes Smolíček pacholíček 2 routes Setmělík 2 routes Vintentou 2 routes Krakonoš 2 routes Ringo 2 routes Rejpal 2 routes Skořepka 2 routes Nuncius 2 routes Kadet Biegler 2 routes Dvojhlavá 2 routes Kvakvakvokoax 2 routes Zoologická zahrada 2 routes Štěně 2 routes Kotě 2 routes Konipas 2 routes Bedýnka 2 routes Páteční 2 routes Moceček 2 routes Fachman Lorenc 1 route Adršpašský endemit 1 route Sokolík 1 route Sklerotik 1 route Tomahavk 1 route Kódl 1 route Vikýřník 1 route Lidoop 1 route Pikoušek 1 route Mecháček 1 route Major Tom 1 route Punková věžička 1 route Krávoš 1 route Kurfiřt 1 route Rasputin 1 route Hona 1 route Kabelka 1 route Lembejk 1 route Kapoun 1 route Zloduch 1 route Eden 1 route Duch 1 route Padesátá první hvězdička 1 route Žižiho věž 1 route Nick 1 route Palivec 1 route Adjunkt 1 route Helma 1 route Pohodářka 1 route Chameleon 1 route Peršing 1 route Lalubi 1 route Šipzároš 1 route Úl 1 route Kleofáš 1 route Kozlíček Dazule 1 route Felina 1 route Strážce Smaragdové rokle 1 route Zejval 1 route Narozeninová jehla 1 route Amorek 1 route Hranolek 1 route Sfingička 1 route Tlusťoch 1 route Zapomnětlivec 1 route Rodinná hrobka 1 route Tadyk 1 route Pryskyřník 1 route Jára Cimrman 1 route Šmírácká vyhlídka 1 route Amorův šíp 1 route Prduch 1 route
6
Lalubi
Between Lalubi and Divá Bára (from NW) via a wide crack to the ring. To the left via a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Amok
From SE via a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
6-
Zamazaná
To the left of the north corner, follow a system of cracks to the ring. To the right, two… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Zamazaná
In the left part of the SW wall, via a chimney to the small pillar and to the right up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Amok
Via the NW crack (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Zamazaná
From the staircase of the tourist path, ascend under the overhang and up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Caparti
To the right of the route "From the Gorge" via a wide crack and chimney to the pillar. Up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Caparti
From SE (between Caparty and the block) from a discrepancy with a crack and to the right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Caparti
By opposition against Culík, through a crack and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Lidový vypravěč
To the left on the south side of the tower, through a crack to the blocks, then… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Lidový vypravěč
Along the Sedmilhářská route to the blocks and up the wall along the crack to the balcony… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Lidový vypravěč
Through the NE crack and chimney into the widening. To the right, via the gully to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Lidový vypravěč
To the right of the Sedmilhářská route, through a wide crack to the pillar of the Old… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Kupido
From the small hill over the chapel roof to the western edge (1st Q), via an oblique… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8+/9-
Kupido
Along the "Stupido" route to the 2nd circle and further along the ramp to the right edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Uhlířská
From the NE via opposition to the ring, then a crack and a chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Uhlířská
From the uphill side (about 8m left of the start of the "Old Way") via a crack to the end… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Uhlířská
Via the Hojbařská spára route into the hole and from the left into the small cave (or… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Uhlířská
To the right of the start of Údolní cesta (Valley Way) via a system of cracks and an… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Uhlířská
In the left part of the NW wall via a small crack under the overhang, traversing the wall… Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
4+
Uhlířská
Via the uphill chimney (from Milenci) to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Uhlířská
Via the "Údolní komín" (Valley Chimney) route into the cave and out via a crack over the… Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger
4
Sfingička
Via the uphill (SE) wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Laid wall
4-
Pometlo
From the chimney of the Traverse route, right along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Krávoš
Via the uphill wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Hermafrodit
In the SW wall, traverse right and through the left chimney to the end, then briefly… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Pometlo
From the uphill side, traverse right to the ledge of the valley wall and through the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Hermafrodit
In the valley wall, via a crack and a corner to the ring, over the shelves to the right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Pometlo
Via the valley chimney from the NW, higher up via a step-across and along the edge past 2… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Pometlo
At the right valley edge, 2 meters up the chimney. Traverse left into the corner. Through… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1

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