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Climbing at Milenecká hora

522 routes
166 areas
1–10 grades

Milenecká hora in the Adršpach Rocks offers more than 520 routes – most on Milenci (the Lovers), with more on Alpská, Hrad, Hadí, Mošna and Krokodýl. The climbing is traditional on vertical sandstone walls with rings and textile protection; grades from 1 to 10.

Part of Adršpach Rocks, Milenecká hora has 522 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 166 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Spare Route, Vertical wall.

Rules

- Do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks, do not remove stones, wood and organic matter from cracks - Use tourist routes and marked access paths for access - Do not disturb nesting birds, climb only on dry rocks in shoes with soft soles - Belay with fixed means and textile loops, do not rub the rock with rope, do not chop - Magnesium is prohibited, climb only in daylight - First ascents only by ČHS members, training max 3 people with instructor

Nature protection: Seasonal climbing ban from January 1 to June 30. Nature Protection Document: OP measure 2019, OP authority PLA Broumovsko

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.61697, 16.12254

Milenci 24 routes Alpská 13 routes Hrad 12 routes Hadí 12 routes Mošna 12 routes Krokodýl 11 routes Cherubín 10 routes Trojník 10 routes Čtyři apoštolové 10 routes Přílba 9 routes Uhlířská 8 routes Tři bratři 8 routes Lesník 8 routes Řeřicha 7 routes Baloun 6 routes Vřesová 6 routes Kvarteto 6 routes Majka 5 routes Hvízdavý Dan 5 routes Rádža 5 routes Lidový vypravěč 5 routes Křídlo 5 routes Gondola 5 routes Mláďata 5 routes Bragliho věž 5 routes Citadela 5 routes Dálkový student 5 routes Čtyři panny 5 routes Gigolo 5 routes Schodiště 5 routes Baronesa 5 routes Lesáček 4 routes Rytíř Žumbera 4 routes Pidikřístek 4 routes Lvice 4 routes Culík 4 routes Klakvakrakve 4 routes Jebáček 4 routes Bulík 4 routes Divá Bára 4 routes Podhoubí 4 routes Citrónová 4 routes Amor 4 routes Vosí věž 4 routes Pometlo 4 routes Placka 4 routes Zářijová 4 routes Pásovec 4 routes Leslie 4 routes Baba Jaga 4 routes Malý vyzobanec 3 routes Adam a Eva 3 routes Amazonka 3 routes Doskočiště 3 routes Miláček 3 routes Zamazaná 3 routes Tři sestry 3 routes Blembák 3 routes Zapadlá 3 routes Samotář 3 routes Křen 3 routes Psance 3 routes Veselá kráva 3 routes Pilíř 3 routes Ferda 3 routes Kulich 3 routes Caparti 3 routes Pipp 3 routes Rosignano 3 routes Sultán 3 routes Serafíno 3 routes Eros 3 routes Šefildská věž 3 routes Syneček 3 routes Husopaska 2 routes Bedřich 2 routes Batyskaf 2 routes Svišť 2 routes Brundibár 2 routes Trioleta 2 routes Violeta 2 routes Pacínek 2 routes Jehlička 2 routes Včelař 2 routes Amok 2 routes Užovka 2 routes Fořt 2 routes Kupido 2 routes Spací strýc 2 routes Mamička 2 routes Roraima 2 routes Tampon 2 routes Bruno 2 routes Outloň váhavý 2 routes Hermafrodit 2 routes Malá starostová 2 routes Smolíček pacholíček 2 routes Setmělík 2 routes Vintentou 2 routes Krakonoš 2 routes Ringo 2 routes Rejpal 2 routes Skořepka 2 routes Nuncius 2 routes Kadet Biegler 2 routes Dvojhlavá 2 routes Kvakvakvokoax 2 routes Zoologická zahrada 2 routes Štěně 2 routes Kotě 2 routes Konipas 2 routes Bedýnka 2 routes Páteční 2 routes Moceček 2 routes Fachman Lorenc 1 route Adršpašský endemit 1 route Sokolík 1 route Sklerotik 1 route Tomahavk 1 route Kódl 1 route Vikýřník 1 route Lidoop 1 route Pikoušek 1 route Mecháček 1 route Major Tom 1 route Punková věžička 1 route Krávoš 1 route Kurfiřt 1 route Rasputin 1 route Hona 1 route Kabelka 1 route Lembejk 1 route Kapoun 1 route Zloduch 1 route Eden 1 route Duch 1 route Padesátá první hvězdička 1 route Žižiho věž 1 route Nick 1 route Palivec 1 route Adjunkt 1 route Helma 1 route Pohodářka 1 route Chameleon 1 route Peršing 1 route Lalubi 1 route Šipzároš 1 route Úl 1 route Kleofáš 1 route Kozlíček Dazule 1 route Felina 1 route Strážce Smaragdové rokle 1 route Zejval 1 route Narozeninová jehla 1 route Amorek 1 route Hranolek 1 route Sfingička 1 route Tlusťoch 1 route Zapomnětlivec 1 route Rodinná hrobka 1 route Tadyk 1 route Pryskyřník 1 route Jára Cimrman 1 route Šmírácká vyhlídka 1 route Amorův šíp 1 route Prduch 1 route
5
Tři bratři
In the right part, via a chimney to the pillar to Q, up the wall under the overhang, and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Lembejk
From the path on the SE side, up the chimney to the saddle, up the chimney and crack… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Řeřicha
To the right of the 'Letecký den' route, from the intermediate tower, up the chimney… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Trojník
To the right of the Old Route, up the cracks to the small platform. Above it, with aid… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Trojník
To the left of the Lupénka route, alternately via crack, fissure, and gully into the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Trojník
In the right part of the valley wall, through cracks to the saddle and from the right up… Rock Climbing Textile belay
9
Trojník
Along the edge directly to the ring of the Sláva trudu route and further along the edge… Rock Climbing
6
Trojník
Center of the valley wall and up the crack to the saddle. Old Route to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
10
Alpská
From the 4th ring of the Encián route, directly up the edge to the 6th ring and to the… Rock Climbing
5
Trojník
To the left of the Old Route, up the crack below the overhang, over it, traverse left on… Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
5
Trojník
Left crack in the SW face to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
4
Trojník
In the right part of the plateau wall, up the crack and chimney to the saddle. Up the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8/8+
Alpská
To the right of the left valley edge, up the crack (1st ring) to the ledge in the alcove.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Alpská
To the right of the S corner, up the wall into the corner crack, then (ring) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7/7+
Alpská
Following the crack climbers' route to the ring, traverse left to the edge and along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Šefildská věž
Left of the upper (eastern) edge, ascend via a corner crack to a smaller pillar and then… Rock Climbing Textile belay Laid wall
5+
Šefildská věž
Along the upper edge to a smaller pillar. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Šefildská věž
From SW, ascend via a chimney to the crack and along it to a smaller pillar. Via the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Bragliho věž
From SW, ascend via a crack to the balcony. Build up right to the edge, along it, and… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
6-
Krokodýl
In the left part of the NE face, diagonally right under the overhang to the ring. Over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Krokodýl
From the valley from NW, ascend the wall into the corner, then through it over the ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Krokodýl
Follow route "Bike or Climbing" to the large ledge with a pine tree, then right via the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Krokodýl
From the NE, ascend via the chimney between Krokodyl and the pillar, step over, and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6+/7-
Krokodýl
From the platform of route Sahrekér, ascend the wall (3 rings) to the pillar. Left via a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5+
Krokodýl
From SW, ascend via a crack to a small platform and traverse the wall right to the ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Krokodýl
In the right part of the SE face, ascend via a shallow chimney and crack to the 1st ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Krokodýl
Follow route "Sakrekér" to the 1st ring, then ascend the pyrite wall slightly right (ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Krokodýl
From the north via a crack (ring) to the 2nd ring. Via a small crack and a short chimney… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Krokodýl
From the start of the "Crocodile Dundee" route, left via a crack to a small balcony. Up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Krokodýl
From the upper fore-rock on the left, ascend via a double crack, a crack (ring), and a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1

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