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Climbing at Milenecká hora

522 routes
166 areas
1–10 grades

Milenecká hora in the Adršpach Rocks offers more than 520 routes – most on Milenci (the Lovers), with more on Alpská, Hrad, Hadí, Mošna and Krokodýl. The climbing is traditional on vertical sandstone walls with rings and textile protection; grades from 1 to 10.

Part of Adršpach Rocks, Milenecká hora has 522 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 166 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Spare Route, Vertical wall.

Rules

- Do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks, do not remove stones, wood and organic matter from cracks - Use tourist routes and marked access paths for access - Do not disturb nesting birds, climb only on dry rocks in shoes with soft soles - Belay with fixed means and textile loops, do not rub the rock with rope, do not chop - Magnesium is prohibited, climb only in daylight - First ascents only by ČHS members, training max 3 people with instructor

Nature protection: Seasonal climbing ban from January 1 to June 30. Nature Protection Document: OP measure 2019, OP authority PLA Broumovsko

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.61697, 16.12254

Milenci 24 routes Alpská 13 routes Hrad 12 routes Hadí 12 routes Mošna 12 routes Krokodýl 11 routes Cherubín 10 routes Trojník 10 routes Čtyři apoštolové 10 routes Přílba 9 routes Uhlířská 8 routes Tři bratři 8 routes Lesník 8 routes Řeřicha 7 routes Baloun 6 routes Vřesová 6 routes Kvarteto 6 routes Majka 5 routes Hvízdavý Dan 5 routes Rádža 5 routes Lidový vypravěč 5 routes Křídlo 5 routes Gondola 5 routes Mláďata 5 routes Bragliho věž 5 routes Citadela 5 routes Dálkový student 5 routes Čtyři panny 5 routes Gigolo 5 routes Schodiště 5 routes Baronesa 5 routes Lesáček 4 routes Rytíř Žumbera 4 routes Pidikřístek 4 routes Lvice 4 routes Culík 4 routes Klakvakrakve 4 routes Jebáček 4 routes Bulík 4 routes Divá Bára 4 routes Podhoubí 4 routes Citrónová 4 routes Amor 4 routes Vosí věž 4 routes Pometlo 4 routes Placka 4 routes Zářijová 4 routes Pásovec 4 routes Leslie 4 routes Baba Jaga 4 routes Malý vyzobanec 3 routes Adam a Eva 3 routes Amazonka 3 routes Doskočiště 3 routes Miláček 3 routes Zamazaná 3 routes Tři sestry 3 routes Blembák 3 routes Zapadlá 3 routes Samotář 3 routes Křen 3 routes Psance 3 routes Veselá kráva 3 routes Pilíř 3 routes Ferda 3 routes Kulich 3 routes Caparti 3 routes Pipp 3 routes Rosignano 3 routes Sultán 3 routes Serafíno 3 routes Eros 3 routes Šefildská věž 3 routes Syneček 3 routes Husopaska 2 routes Bedřich 2 routes Batyskaf 2 routes Svišť 2 routes Brundibár 2 routes Trioleta 2 routes Violeta 2 routes Pacínek 2 routes Jehlička 2 routes Včelař 2 routes Amok 2 routes Užovka 2 routes Fořt 2 routes Kupido 2 routes Spací strýc 2 routes Mamička 2 routes Roraima 2 routes Tampon 2 routes Bruno 2 routes Outloň váhavý 2 routes Hermafrodit 2 routes Malá starostová 2 routes Smolíček pacholíček 2 routes Setmělík 2 routes Vintentou 2 routes Krakonoš 2 routes Ringo 2 routes Rejpal 2 routes Skořepka 2 routes Nuncius 2 routes Kadet Biegler 2 routes Dvojhlavá 2 routes Kvakvakvokoax 2 routes Zoologická zahrada 2 routes Štěně 2 routes Kotě 2 routes Konipas 2 routes Bedýnka 2 routes Páteční 2 routes Moceček 2 routes Fachman Lorenc 1 route Adršpašský endemit 1 route Sokolík 1 route Sklerotik 1 route Tomahavk 1 route Kódl 1 route Vikýřník 1 route Lidoop 1 route Pikoušek 1 route Mecháček 1 route Major Tom 1 route Punková věžička 1 route Krávoš 1 route Kurfiřt 1 route Rasputin 1 route Hona 1 route Kabelka 1 route Lembejk 1 route Kapoun 1 route Zloduch 1 route Eden 1 route Duch 1 route Padesátá první hvězdička 1 route Žižiho věž 1 route Nick 1 route Palivec 1 route Adjunkt 1 route Helma 1 route Pohodářka 1 route Chameleon 1 route Peršing 1 route Lalubi 1 route Šipzároš 1 route Úl 1 route Kleofáš 1 route Kozlíček Dazule 1 route Felina 1 route Strážce Smaragdové rokle 1 route Zejval 1 route Narozeninová jehla 1 route Amorek 1 route Hranolek 1 route Sfingička 1 route Tlusťoch 1 route Zapomnětlivec 1 route Rodinná hrobka 1 route Tadyk 1 route Pryskyřník 1 route Jára Cimrman 1 route Šmírácká vyhlídka 1 route Amorův šíp 1 route Prduch 1 route
2
Leslie
Via the chimney from the N. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Leslie
Via the right SW crack to the pre-summit and further to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Leslie
From the SW, via the left chimney to the saddle and further to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Klakvakrakve
On the left on the NW side of the tower, via a dihedral, then a crack over the overhang… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Leslie
Overhang from Klakvakrakve and shortly up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Klakvakrakve
From the SW, via the corner crack into the chimney. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Klakvakrakve
Start as for 'Vnitřní' (Inner). Directly via the chimney and a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
3
Klakvakrakve
From the corner on the SE side of the tower, via a crawl into the chimney and up it to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Ringo
From the SW, via a chimney to the ledge, then left along it to the ring and along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Pikoušek
Up the upper wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Ringo
Via the valley crack to the ledge and then via the Friendly Route to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Křídlo
From the NE, along vegetated steps into the gully, from there traverse left up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Křídlo
On the west edge, via a crack to the ring and traverse left on the ledge. Up the wall,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Křídlo
To the right of the west edge, via a chimney to the ledge, then left along it and up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Křídlo
From the crack of the Bird's Route variant, traverse right up the wall (ring) to the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Křídlo
From the upper side, up the wall to the right to the crack and via it to the balcony. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Tři bratři
From the traverse of the New Route, left on the SE wall, via a crack to the pillar. Then… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Pipp
Directly up the left upper edge (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Strážce Smaragdové rokle
Up the valley wall (2 rings) to the 3rd ring. Up the wall directly along the crack, or… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Pipp
Via the left valley crack to the gendarme. Traverse right up the wall and via a crack to… Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
3
Pipp
From the upper side, via a stem and a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Tři bratři
From the upper side, traverse left through a chimney into the inner space. Via a system… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Tři bratři
Rock Climbing
4
Tři bratři
From the upper side, via a crack to the small pillar, traverse right up the wall and via… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Tři bratři
From the SW, via a chimney to the block, then a crack and a chimney to the pre-summit.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Tři bratři
From the block of the West Route, traverse left up the wall to the balcony. From the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Tři bratři
From the NE edge of the inner chimney, via a crack to the right to the balcony. Via a… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Serafíno
From the NE, via a system of chimneys to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Serafíno
From the W, via a long chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Serafíno
From the valley side (with aid) via a system of cracks (1st ring) to the balcony to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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