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Climbing at Milenecká hora

522 routes
166 areas
1–10 grades

Milenecká hora in the Adršpach Rocks offers more than 520 routes – most on Milenci (the Lovers), with more on Alpská, Hrad, Hadí, Mošna and Krokodýl. The climbing is traditional on vertical sandstone walls with rings and textile protection; grades from 1 to 10.

Part of Adršpach Rocks, Milenecká hora has 522 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 166 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Spare Route, Vertical wall.

Rules

- Do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks, do not remove stones, wood and organic matter from cracks - Use tourist routes and marked access paths for access - Do not disturb nesting birds, climb only on dry rocks in shoes with soft soles - Belay with fixed means and textile loops, do not rub the rock with rope, do not chop - Magnesium is prohibited, climb only in daylight - First ascents only by ČHS members, training max 3 people with instructor

Nature protection: Seasonal climbing ban from January 1 to June 30. Nature Protection Document: OP measure 2019, OP authority PLA Broumovsko

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.61697, 16.12254

Milenci 24 routes Alpská 13 routes Hrad 12 routes Hadí 12 routes Mošna 12 routes Krokodýl 11 routes Cherubín 10 routes Trojník 10 routes Čtyři apoštolové 10 routes Přílba 9 routes Uhlířská 8 routes Tři bratři 8 routes Lesník 8 routes Řeřicha 7 routes Baloun 6 routes Vřesová 6 routes Kvarteto 6 routes Majka 5 routes Hvízdavý Dan 5 routes Rádža 5 routes Lidový vypravěč 5 routes Křídlo 5 routes Gondola 5 routes Mláďata 5 routes Bragliho věž 5 routes Citadela 5 routes Dálkový student 5 routes Čtyři panny 5 routes Gigolo 5 routes Schodiště 5 routes Baronesa 5 routes Lesáček 4 routes Rytíř Žumbera 4 routes Pidikřístek 4 routes Lvice 4 routes Culík 4 routes Klakvakrakve 4 routes Jebáček 4 routes Bulík 4 routes Divá Bára 4 routes Podhoubí 4 routes Citrónová 4 routes Amor 4 routes Vosí věž 4 routes Pometlo 4 routes Placka 4 routes Zářijová 4 routes Pásovec 4 routes Leslie 4 routes Baba Jaga 4 routes Malý vyzobanec 3 routes Adam a Eva 3 routes Amazonka 3 routes Doskočiště 3 routes Miláček 3 routes Zamazaná 3 routes Tři sestry 3 routes Blembák 3 routes Zapadlá 3 routes Samotář 3 routes Křen 3 routes Psance 3 routes Veselá kráva 3 routes Pilíř 3 routes Ferda 3 routes Kulich 3 routes Caparti 3 routes Pipp 3 routes Rosignano 3 routes Sultán 3 routes Serafíno 3 routes Eros 3 routes Šefildská věž 3 routes Syneček 3 routes Husopaska 2 routes Bedřich 2 routes Batyskaf 2 routes Svišť 2 routes Brundibár 2 routes Trioleta 2 routes Violeta 2 routes Pacínek 2 routes Jehlička 2 routes Včelař 2 routes Amok 2 routes Užovka 2 routes Fořt 2 routes Kupido 2 routes Spací strýc 2 routes Mamička 2 routes Roraima 2 routes Tampon 2 routes Bruno 2 routes Outloň váhavý 2 routes Hermafrodit 2 routes Malá starostová 2 routes Smolíček pacholíček 2 routes Setmělík 2 routes Vintentou 2 routes Krakonoš 2 routes Ringo 2 routes Rejpal 2 routes Skořepka 2 routes Nuncius 2 routes Kadet Biegler 2 routes Dvojhlavá 2 routes Kvakvakvokoax 2 routes Zoologická zahrada 2 routes Štěně 2 routes Kotě 2 routes Konipas 2 routes Bedýnka 2 routes Páteční 2 routes Moceček 2 routes Fachman Lorenc 1 route Adršpašský endemit 1 route Sokolík 1 route Sklerotik 1 route Tomahavk 1 route Kódl 1 route Vikýřník 1 route Lidoop 1 route Pikoušek 1 route Mecháček 1 route Major Tom 1 route Punková věžička 1 route Krávoš 1 route Kurfiřt 1 route Rasputin 1 route Hona 1 route Kabelka 1 route Lembejk 1 route Kapoun 1 route Zloduch 1 route Eden 1 route Duch 1 route Padesátá první hvězdička 1 route Žižiho věž 1 route Nick 1 route Palivec 1 route Adjunkt 1 route Helma 1 route Pohodářka 1 route Chameleon 1 route Peršing 1 route Lalubi 1 route Šipzároš 1 route Úl 1 route Kleofáš 1 route Kozlíček Dazule 1 route Felina 1 route Strážce Smaragdové rokle 1 route Zejval 1 route Narozeninová jehla 1 route Amorek 1 route Hranolek 1 route Sfingička 1 route Tlusťoch 1 route Zapomnětlivec 1 route Rodinná hrobka 1 route Tadyk 1 route Pryskyřník 1 route Jára Cimrman 1 route Šmírácká vyhlídka 1 route Amorův šíp 1 route Prduch 1 route
8-/8
Dálkový student
From the NW through the traversing chimney to the pillar, traverse right along the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Lesník
In the SW wall, via a crack to the 1st ring, traverse right along the ramp to the 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Brundibár
From the SE side of the base, up the wall and chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
5
Brundibár
From the upper (SW) side, up the wall to the left beyond the edge and via the chimney to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Lesník
From the "Mountain Road" on the ledge, right to the 1st Q of Hubert's ride. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Lesník
Start via the Upper Route and slightly right to the 1st ring. Via the wall (2nd ring) to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Lesník
From the balcony of the Upper Route, to the right via the wall along the fissures to a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Lesník
From the upper side, via a system of chimneys to the summit. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Lesník
In the right part of the valley (NE) wall, via cracks and in the overhanging corner via a… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Lesník
In the corner at the eastern edge, via a crack over the overhang to the 1st ring. Via a… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Lesník
In the right part of the valley wall to a small pillar and via a crack to Q, further via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Podhoubí
Via the upper (NW) chimney to the pillars and via the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
3
Podhoubí
From the south, via a chimney to the pillar and via the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
5
Malá starostová
Start via the route "Stavěcí - i.e., with significant aiding" to the ledge. Traverse… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Setmělík
From the SE, via a crack in the corner to the plateau. Via a crack and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Malá starostová
From the SW, via a chimney and over blocks to the pillar. With significant aiding and via… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Setmělík
As the original (route) to the plateau, then left along it and via a chimney to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Citrónová
Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Citrónová
From the upper side, by aiding to the ledge, then diagonally right along it and via the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Mecháček
Along the upper edge to the pillar and from the overhang by aiding to the ring. Aiding… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Citrónová
Via the right part of the upper wall and from the right along the block to a small… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Citrónová
Through the middle of the upper wall (2 rings) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Helma
At the western edge, via a small crack to its end, right along the wall and along the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8/8+
Blembák
Via the chimney between Přilba (Helmet) and Blembak into the crack and via it to the ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Nick
Up the wall along the left plateau edge (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8/8+
Blembák
Via Saxon body stacking technique at the right edge of the 1st Q, traverse left in the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Blembák
Via a variant of the 'Long' route to Přilba (Helmet) to the platform. Left via the crack… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Batyskaf
Via the chimney of the 'World of Silence' route (at the eastern edge of the tower) for… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Batyskaf
Between Batyskaf and Přilba (Helmet), via the chimney, higher up by stemming to the small… Rock Climbing Textile belay
Přeskok
Baronesa
From the rim/edge, by a jump to the balcony and then left via the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay

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