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Climbing at Milenecká hora

522 routes
166 areas
1–10 grades

Milenecká hora in the Adršpach Rocks offers more than 520 routes – most on Milenci (the Lovers), with more on Alpská, Hrad, Hadí, Mošna and Krokodýl. The climbing is traditional on vertical sandstone walls with rings and textile protection; grades from 1 to 10.

Part of Adršpach Rocks, Milenecká hora has 522 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 166 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Spare Route, Vertical wall.

Rules

- Do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks, do not remove stones, wood and organic matter from cracks - Use tourist routes and marked access paths for access - Do not disturb nesting birds, climb only on dry rocks in shoes with soft soles - Belay with fixed means and textile loops, do not rub the rock with rope, do not chop - Magnesium is prohibited, climb only in daylight - First ascents only by ČHS members, training max 3 people with instructor

Nature protection: Seasonal climbing ban from January 1 to June 30. Nature Protection Document: OP measure 2019, OP authority PLA Broumovsko

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.61697, 16.12254

Milenci 24 routes Alpská 13 routes Hrad 12 routes Hadí 12 routes Mošna 12 routes Krokodýl 11 routes Cherubín 10 routes Trojník 10 routes Čtyři apoštolové 10 routes Přílba 9 routes Uhlířská 8 routes Tři bratři 8 routes Lesník 8 routes Řeřicha 7 routes Baloun 6 routes Vřesová 6 routes Kvarteto 6 routes Majka 5 routes Hvízdavý Dan 5 routes Rádža 5 routes Lidový vypravěč 5 routes Křídlo 5 routes Gondola 5 routes Mláďata 5 routes Bragliho věž 5 routes Citadela 5 routes Dálkový student 5 routes Čtyři panny 5 routes Gigolo 5 routes Schodiště 5 routes Baronesa 5 routes Lesáček 4 routes Rytíř Žumbera 4 routes Pidikřístek 4 routes Lvice 4 routes Culík 4 routes Klakvakrakve 4 routes Jebáček 4 routes Bulík 4 routes Divá Bára 4 routes Podhoubí 4 routes Citrónová 4 routes Amor 4 routes Vosí věž 4 routes Pometlo 4 routes Placka 4 routes Zářijová 4 routes Pásovec 4 routes Leslie 4 routes Baba Jaga 4 routes Malý vyzobanec 3 routes Adam a Eva 3 routes Amazonka 3 routes Doskočiště 3 routes Miláček 3 routes Zamazaná 3 routes Tři sestry 3 routes Blembák 3 routes Zapadlá 3 routes Samotář 3 routes Křen 3 routes Psance 3 routes Veselá kráva 3 routes Pilíř 3 routes Ferda 3 routes Kulich 3 routes Caparti 3 routes Pipp 3 routes Rosignano 3 routes Sultán 3 routes Serafíno 3 routes Eros 3 routes Šefildská věž 3 routes Syneček 3 routes Husopaska 2 routes Bedřich 2 routes Batyskaf 2 routes Svišť 2 routes Brundibár 2 routes Trioleta 2 routes Violeta 2 routes Pacínek 2 routes Jehlička 2 routes Včelař 2 routes Amok 2 routes Užovka 2 routes Fořt 2 routes Kupido 2 routes Spací strýc 2 routes Mamička 2 routes Roraima 2 routes Tampon 2 routes Bruno 2 routes Outloň váhavý 2 routes Hermafrodit 2 routes Malá starostová 2 routes Smolíček pacholíček 2 routes Setmělík 2 routes Vintentou 2 routes Krakonoš 2 routes Ringo 2 routes Rejpal 2 routes Skořepka 2 routes Nuncius 2 routes Kadet Biegler 2 routes Dvojhlavá 2 routes Kvakvakvokoax 2 routes Zoologická zahrada 2 routes Štěně 2 routes Kotě 2 routes Konipas 2 routes Bedýnka 2 routes Páteční 2 routes Moceček 2 routes Fachman Lorenc 1 route Adršpašský endemit 1 route Sokolík 1 route Sklerotik 1 route Tomahavk 1 route Kódl 1 route Vikýřník 1 route Lidoop 1 route Pikoušek 1 route Mecháček 1 route Major Tom 1 route Punková věžička 1 route Krávoš 1 route Kurfiřt 1 route Rasputin 1 route Hona 1 route Kabelka 1 route Lembejk 1 route Kapoun 1 route Zloduch 1 route Eden 1 route Duch 1 route Padesátá první hvězdička 1 route Žižiho věž 1 route Nick 1 route Palivec 1 route Adjunkt 1 route Helma 1 route Pohodářka 1 route Chameleon 1 route Peršing 1 route Lalubi 1 route Šipzároš 1 route Úl 1 route Kleofáš 1 route Kozlíček Dazule 1 route Felina 1 route Strážce Smaragdové rokle 1 route Zejval 1 route Narozeninová jehla 1 route Amorek 1 route Hranolek 1 route Sfingička 1 route Tlusťoch 1 route Zapomnětlivec 1 route Rodinná hrobka 1 route Tadyk 1 route Pryskyřník 1 route Jára Cimrman 1 route Šmírácká vyhlídka 1 route Amorův šíp 1 route Prduch 1 route
8/8+
Rádža
3 rings Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
2+
Rádža
To the left of the southern edge via the overgrown face to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Sultán
From the SE via a chimney to a ledge and traverse right along it to the 1st ring. By… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Psance
To the right of route Díravý mince (Holey Coin) via a chimney to the pillar. Via a crack… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Kvakvakvokoax
Via the upland edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Kvakvakvokoax
Via the chimney from the upland side to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Psance
From the saddle from the western edge, left via the face and a curved crack to the ledge.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Hvízdavý Dan
In the right part of the SE face via a crack and chimney to the sub-summit. Old route to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Hvízdavý Dan
From the north, via a chimney to a block. Left by crack to the ring, (stemming from a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Psance
From the SE via stemming (against the Hvízdavý Dan pillar) and a crack to the ring. Right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Hvízdavý Dan
To the right of the Old Route via a crack and face to the sub-summit. Old route to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Čtyři apoštolové
In the left part of the SW wall, via a crack to a block. Rock Climbing Spare Route
2
Hvízdavý Dan
From the upper side, via the right chimney to the false summit and then up the wall to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Hvízdavý Dan
To the left of the Old Route, via a chimney to the pillar and then up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Adršpašský endemit
By opposition between "Pacinek" and the Four Apostles to the 1st ring, left via a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Čtyři apoštolové
In the right part of the NW wall, via a chimney, crack over the overhang and left along… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
5+
Čtyři apoštolové
Via the "Valley Route" to the ledge, traverse left and by crack (ring) to the false… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Čtyři apoštolové
From the start of the Old Route, passage in the chimney to the right into the inner space… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Čtyři apoštolové
In the right part of the NE wall, via a chimney to the false summit. Then via the Old… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Čtyři apoštolové
Left on the NE side of the tower via a crack and chimney to a block. By crack (ring) to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Čtyři apoštolové
To the left of the Old Route, via a small crack and chimney to the plateau. Then via the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Čtyři apoštolové
To the left of the Southwest Route, via a chimney to a block. Up the wall to the left … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Čtyři apoštolové
From the SW via a chimney for three meters, step left to a small platform and by crack to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Čtyři apoštolové
Rock Climbing
7
Fořt
Along the crack and left over the overhang to the ring. Up the wall along the edge to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Fořt
Southern edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Dálkový student
From the upper side, via a chimney to the plateau and left via a chimney to the false… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Dálkový student
Right NW crack (ring) and chimney to the false summit. Via the route "From the Gorge" to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Dálkový student
From the valley side via a system of chimneys to the plateau, then bouldering/stemming… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Adjunkt
From the crack, n. v. (unclear, likely abbreviation for 'na vrchol' - to the summit). Rock Climbing Textile belay

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