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Climbing at Moravian Sandstones

1524 routes
5 areas
2–11- grades

The Moravian Sandstones bring together the sandstone crags of eastern Moravia, mostly in the Zlín Region, in the ranges of the Western Carpathians: Chřiby, the Hostýn and Vsetín Hills, the Vizovice Highlands and the Javorníky on the border with Slovakia. Unlike the block sandstones of northern Bohemia, these rocks are built mainly of flysch deposits – as in the Hostýn-Vsetín Mountains, which the Bečva river divides into the lower Hostýn and higher Vsetín Hills, topped by Vysoká (1,024 m). The crags are scattered through dense forests, in Chřiby close to Buchlov castle and the ruins of Cimburk and Střílky.

The crags are mostly modest in size – a typical example is the freestanding Kozel in Chřiby, about 25 m high, with bolted routes from the east and west and harder boulder problems on the north side, surrounded by the Hradby boulder field. Climbing is both sport and trad, with fixed and textile protection. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions; check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association before visiting. The area is covered by the guidebook Moravské skály I. – Východní Morava (Skýpala and Wolf, 2018).

Part of Czech Republic, Moravian Sandstones has 1524 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 11-. Explore its 5 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Sport Climbing, Textile belay, Route in shadow, Fixed belay.

Rules

The ČHS rules and those of the regional commission for the Moravian sandstones apply. No climbing on wet rock and no altering the rock.

Moravian sandstone: no climbing from 1 January to 28 February (soft sandstone; OVK decision). Do not climb on wet rock. Check the current status in the ČHS crag database.

5
Rosnička
From the right of the valley wall, around the crack and over the wedged blocks (sling). Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Pulec
Through a shallow recess in the center of the wall to a bolt, around it to the right and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Rosnička
Along the right edge of the valley wall into the recess (2 bolts) and up it to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
?
Rosnička
no details Rock Climbing
5+
Pulec
Chimney to the left of the edge, then onto the edge (bolt) and to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Rosnička
From the plateau side, step over and up the wall. Rock Climbing
6
Králky
Up the wall to the ring, traverse left under the overhang (2nd ring) and notch. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
7
Králky
Up the wall (bolt) to the 2nd ring of route No. 25. Further up the wall (bolt). Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
5+
Králky
Up the wall to the beginning of the receding crack on the right (bolt). One meter along… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
5
Králky
Slab between routes No. 21 and 23, across the conglomerate band (bolt) and gullies… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
5
Králky
Corner crack under the overhang. Up the wall to the right, then left and up the crack. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
4
Králky
Up the wall, across the conglomerate band (ring) into the hollow (hourglass) and notch to… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
4+
Králky
Up the wall directly into the gullies. The most prominent of them. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
6
Králky
Route No. 21 to the edge of the notch and up the wall. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
7
Králky
Slab directly below the center of the overhanging wall of the block to the left of the… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
4
Králky
Slab to the ramp. Corner and chimney with a wedged boulder. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
5+
Králky
Route No. 13 to the ramp. Along the ramp to the right and up the wall (ring) to the right. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
7
Králky
Slab to the ramp and up the wall to the left of Lukovská (ring). Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
8
Králky
Slab under the overhanging edge of the wall to the right of route No. 18. Edge (ring) to… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
7
Králky
On the edge of the wall through overhangs. Orig. V A0 Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
8
Králky
Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
5
Králky
Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
4+
Králky
Up the wall along the crack, in the middle of the wall diagonally to the right and along… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
6-
Králky
Along the edge (bolt). Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
5+
Králky
Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
6-
Králky
Left side of the wall directly across the bowl. Orig. III A0 Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
8-
Králky
Route no. 5 to the ring. Short traverse to the right and straight ahead. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
5-
Králky
Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
7
Králky
1st ascent IV A0 Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
5-
Králky
Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay

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