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Climbing at Moravian Sandstones

1524 routes
5 areas
2–11- grades

The Moravian Sandstones bring together the sandstone crags of eastern Moravia, mostly in the Zlín Region, in the ranges of the Western Carpathians: Chřiby, the Hostýn and Vsetín Hills, the Vizovice Highlands and the Javorníky on the border with Slovakia. Unlike the block sandstones of northern Bohemia, these rocks are built mainly of flysch deposits – as in the Hostýn-Vsetín Mountains, which the Bečva river divides into the lower Hostýn and higher Vsetín Hills, topped by Vysoká (1,024 m). The crags are scattered through dense forests, in Chřiby close to Buchlov castle and the ruins of Cimburk and Střílky.

The crags are mostly modest in size – a typical example is the freestanding Kozel in Chřiby, about 25 m high, with bolted routes from the east and west and harder boulder problems on the north side, surrounded by the Hradby boulder field. Climbing is both sport and trad, with fixed and textile protection. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions; check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association before visiting. The area is covered by the guidebook Moravské skály I. – Východní Morava (Skýpala and Wolf, 2018).

Part of Czech Republic, Moravian Sandstones has 1524 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 11-. Explore its 5 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Sport Climbing, Textile belay, Route in shadow, Fixed belay.

Rules

The ČHS rules and those of the regional commission for the Moravian sandstones apply. No climbing on wet rock and no altering the rock.

Moravian sandstone: no climbing from 1 January to 28 February (soft sandstone; OVK decision). Do not climb on wet rock. Check the current status in the ČHS crag database.

3
Paulusovy skalky
From the lowest point of the rock, through a crack under the overhanging boulder, to the… Rock Climbing
3
Paulusovy skalky
Along the spur, transitioning into a wall at the top. Rock Climbing
3
Paulusovy skalky
In the NW face of the first little tower, a vertical wall. Rock Climbing
7-
Malá věž
Z. Záboj, J. Chamrad, 1944, III A1, Rock Climbing Route in shadow
8-/8
Malá věž
From the space between the towers, with a straddle and the wall of the Malá věž (small… Rock Climbing Route in shadow
5
Malá věž
Rock Climbing Route in shadow
8-
Malá věž
Directly along the right edge of the side wall. Rock Climbing Route in shadow
7+
Malá věž
Along the edge to the 4th bolt of the Bezinková route. From there to the left and up the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow
8+/9-
Malá věž
Rock Climbing Route in shadow
9
Malá věž
Rock Climbing Route in shadow
9+
Malá věž
Z. Čepela, E. Žabčík, P. Bezruč, 1966, V A0 Rock Climbing Route in shadow
6
Pes
Rock Climbing
8+
Malá věž
Z. Čepela, Z. Vítek, 1963, VI A0, Rock Climbing Route in shadow
8-
Malá věž
Rock Climbing Route in shadow
8
Malá věž
Rock Climbing Route in shadow
5
Pes
Center of the downhill wall (ring). Rock Climbing
6
Zadní skály
In the corner to the right of route C. Overhang over the spike and to the right to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5-
Pes
To the right of the nose, through the chimney. Rock Climbing
8
Zadní skály
Start via the Opičí cesta (Monkey Route) to under the overhang and then right of the bolt… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7
Pes
Wall to the left of the Jarní dostih route (2 bolts). Rock Climbing
7
Zadní skály
Crack in the valley face to the ring. Up the wall to a small ledge, overhanging wall (2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8-
Zadní skály
Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Zadní skály
Start via the Opičí cesta (Monkey Route) to under the overhang and then left of the bolt,… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5
Zadní skály
Up the wall and right into the upper part of the articulated chimney (belay). Left to a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Overhang
8+
Zadní skály
From the back side of the rocks to the right tower. In its left part, up a crack (hook)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Overhang
6+
Zadní skály
Crack to the ring, swing up to the small balcony and over the second ring up the wall to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Overhang
8
Zadní skály
Via the Hrana 2000 route to the bolt in the overhanging edge. From there diagonally right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Overhang
5
Zadní skály
In the middle of the south face into a broken crack and up it to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Zadní skály
To the left of the Generační route, up a crack to the ledge and left up another crack to… Rock Climbing
4
Zadní skály
Through the left part of the wall over the fin, straight up the wall and along the edge. Rock Climbing

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