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Climbing at Moravian Karst

1344 routes
8 areas
2+–12 grades

The Moravian Karst is a limestone protected landscape area north of Brno near Blansko, covering about 92 km². The landscape is made of gorges, rock walls and around 1,100 caves and abysses; five cave systems are open to the public, among them the Punkva Caves discovered by Karel Absolon. The best-known feature is the 138 m deep Macocha Abyss, formed when the roof of a cave chamber collapsed, where the Punkva river disappears underground. Marked hiking and cycling trails cross the area.

Climbing is concentrated on the rock walls of the valleys; the best known is Holštejn, with overhanging and vertical walls, often with long run-outs, and hundreds of boulder problems – it is among the hardest climbing spots in the Czech Republic. The limestone can be quite slippery and needs precise footwork and strong fingers; some easier routes are polished and sparsely bolted, so Holštejn is not ideal for complete beginners. The whole area is protected and some crags are restricted – check current rules with the Czech Mountaineering Association and the Moravian Karst PLA administration before visiting.

Part of South Moravia, Moravian Karst has 1344 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2+ to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route on sun, Vertical wall.

Rules

At Holštejn, climbing out onto the top of the cliffs is banned.

Moravian Karst PLA – climbing only on permitted rocks. Some crags may be climbed only in the second half of the year; details in the ČHS crag database.

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply. New routes only with the approval of the ČHS South Moravia regional commission.

8
Lidomorna
Via Ležák to the ledge and over the overhang, continuing straight up. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7
Lidomorna
To the left via a fading corner to the top. Halfway, a boulder problem over a vertical… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +4
5+
Lidomorna
Through the crack and later a chimney to the balcony and to the anchor. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +4
5+
Lidomorna
Start to the left of the crack from Honzova's route. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
9-
Lidomorna
From Michal's first bolt straight up the smooth wall. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+
Lidomorna
To the right along the edge from the corner of Honzova's route. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-
Lidomorna
RP P. Süss, T. Pilka Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7
Lidomorna
Through the crack and later a small corner to the anchor. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8
Lidomorna
Up the middle of the smooth wall to holds and an indistinct crack to the balcony and to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6-
Lidomorna
Original classification V A1 Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-
Lidomorna
Vertical wall with a small crack in the middle. Boulder problem near the first bolt. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6+
Lidomorna
Same as Discovery, but from the last bolt to the left along the edge to the adjacent… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7+
Lidomorna
Through the crack and a recess, then directly up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7
Lidomorna
Through the crack and recess to the right onto the balcony and up the middle of the wall … Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8/8+
Lidomorna
The last bolted route on the right on Lidomorna. Boulder problem near the second to last… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5
Lidomorna
Even further to the right of Perverze via an unprotected corner and then along the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +5
9
Lidomorna
Slightly overhanging route along poor ledges in the right part of Lidomorna. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9+/10-
Lidomorna
To the right of Extáze along the rounded edge. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8/8+
Lidomorna
Route in a slight overhang along ledges in the right part of Lidomorna. To the right of…
8+/9-
Lidomorna
Between the third bolt of Averze and Kontraverze directly up the pillar. Do not take the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+
Lidomorna
From the bolt below the last overhang to the left into Variant Kontraverze. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+
Lidomorna
Route in a slight overhang along ledges in the right part of Lidomorna. To the left of… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9-
Lidomorna
To the left of Kontraverze, boulder style over two rivets/small bolts. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-
Lidomorna
From the sloping corner of Starobrno, right over the bulge into the second corner and up. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +4
8-
Lidomorna
Original classification V+ A0, RP T. Pilka, 1985 Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8-
Lidomorna
Same as Starobrno, but from the upper slab directly up (left rappel point). Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Lidomorna
Upper easier traverse above the cave. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
10+
Lidomorna
Start all the way to the right and along the upper edge of the roof to the third (bolt… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8
Lidomorna
Like 'New Normal Route' but later straight up a vertical wall.
8-
Lidomorna
Traverse left just above the edge of the cave. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2

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