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Climbing at Moravian Karst

1344 routes
8 areas
2+–12 grades

The Moravian Karst is a limestone protected landscape area north of Brno near Blansko, covering about 92 km². The landscape is made of gorges, rock walls and around 1,100 caves and abysses; five cave systems are open to the public, among them the Punkva Caves discovered by Karel Absolon. The best-known feature is the 138 m deep Macocha Abyss, formed when the roof of a cave chamber collapsed, where the Punkva river disappears underground. Marked hiking and cycling trails cross the area.

Climbing is concentrated on the rock walls of the valleys; the best known is Holštejn, with overhanging and vertical walls, often with long run-outs, and hundreds of boulder problems – it is among the hardest climbing spots in the Czech Republic. The limestone can be quite slippery and needs precise footwork and strong fingers; some easier routes are polished and sparsely bolted, so Holštejn is not ideal for complete beginners. The whole area is protected and some crags are restricted – check current rules with the Czech Mountaineering Association and the Moravian Karst PLA administration before visiting.

Part of South Moravia, Moravian Karst has 1344 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2+ to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route on sun, Vertical wall.

Rules

At Holštejn, climbing out onto the top of the cliffs is banned.

Moravian Karst PLA – climbing only on permitted rocks. Some crags may be climbed only in the second half of the year; details in the ČHS crag database.

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply. New routes only with the approval of the ČHS South Moravia regional commission.

9+
Lidomorna
In the right part of the cave, over two BH (bolts) across the overhang and to the belay… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
10
Lidomorna
In the right part of the cave straight over the overhang. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
11-
Lidomorna
Over three borhaks (bolts) into the route 'Glutaman' and along it to the rappel point. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Route on sun +1
10+
Lidomorna
Along the lower edge of the roof. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
10/10+
Lidomorna
Along the upper edge of the roof. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9+/10-
Lidomorna
Start right of the sign (slab/route) over two borhaks (bolts) up and then diagonally left… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
10
Lidomorna
Through Kašpárek to the second (bolt/anchor), left into Barricade and from the last one… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
10-
Lidomorna
Via the route 'Kašpárek's little grave' to the second (bolt/anchor) and from there left… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
10
Lidomorna
Overhang via chiseled edges/ledges to the belay/rappel point. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
10-
Lidomorna
Through the barricade to the second (bolt/anchor) and from there right into Kašpárek. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
10
Lidomorna
Original classification, V+A3 RP A. Eichmaier, 2014, ends in No-hand rest. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-
Lidomorna
Via 'The Sign' (route/slab) to the third (bolt/anchor) and right onto the overhanging… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7+
Lidomorna
From the no-hand rest above the key (crux) of 'The Sign', right through the corner and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8-
Lidomorna
Via 'The Sign' (route/slab) over its hardest part to the no-hand rest and from there… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
10+
Lidomorna
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+
Lidomorna
RP T. Pilka, 1986 Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
11-/11
Lidomorna
Extension of Koschei over two BH (bolts) to the shelf. Ends in Kudlanka. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+
Lidomorna
Through the crack and corner around the sign to the belay/rappel point.
11-/11
Lidomorna
Bouldering power moves. Ends at the rappel in the middle of the wall. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
12-
Lidomorna
Start like Kostěj Nesmrtelný, from the right we avoid a good rest via the crux of… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
11
Lidomorna
Between Hradní spára and Kostěj Nesmrtelný via 7 bolts into Hradní spára, then 5m up and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
11+
Lidomorna
First 5 bolts of Perla východu, but we do not traverse left, but simply go straight up… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+
Lidomorna
Up the crack to the right of the Charles Darwin route, over the overhang and continuously… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +4
8+
Lidomorna
Starting variation for the Noční spára variation directly along the edge. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +4
10-
Lidomorna
Original classification V A3, free T. Pilka RK, 1987 Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
11-
Lidomorna
Up the middle of the pillar, over the overhang to the Evoluce rappel anchor. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
10
Lidomorna
Up the smooth wall to the right and through the corner into the overhang and to the belay. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-
Lidomorna
Up the distinct crack. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +4
9+/10-
Lidomorna
RP P. Weisser, 1986 Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
?
Lidomorna
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2

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