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Climbing at Na Tokáni

463 routes
95 areas
2–9/9+ grades

Na Tokáni is a Bohemian Switzerland National Park sector with more than 460 routes on 95 sandstone towers – for example Cipísek, the Great and Small Towers of the Rose Garden, Johanův kámen, Jedlový roh, Spálený hrad, Měsíční kámen, Křinický kostel, Ježibaba and Řádný občan. Vertical walls dominate, often in the shade, with rings and textile protection; grades from 2 to 9/9+.

Part of 9. Bohemian Switzerland NP, Na Tokáni has 463 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 9/9+. Explore its 95 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

Inside the national park you may climb only on permitted rocks.

The park administration announces seasonal access bans each year for sites with nesting birds. Some towers are closed permanently (the "Jetřichovice – zakázané" sector). Check the ČHS crag database and the park administration's website before every visit.

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Cipísek 14 routes Velká věž růžové zahrady 13 routes Johanův kámen 11 routes Jedlový roh 11 routes Spálený hrad 10 routes Měsíční kámen 9 routes Malá věž růžové zahrady 8 routes Křinický kostel 8 routes Ježibaba 8 routes Řádný občan 8 routes Jižní kříž 7 routes Budha 7 routes Orlická věž 7 routes Big stone 7 routes Lidožrout 7 routes Pytlácký kámen 7 routes Strážce pětidomí 7 routes Křinický král 7 routes Čtyřlístek 7 routes Zelená věž 6 routes Želva 6 routes Březová věžička 6 routes Strážce mostků 6 routes Koňský zub (Sluneční hlava) 6 routes Vosa 6 routes Železná hlava 6 routes Šikmá věž 6 routes Poustevna 6 routes Křinická věž 6 routes Vosí věž 6 routes Krkonošská věž 5 routes Čertovo kvítko 5 routes Rejnok 5 routes Döbelnský erb 5 routes Letní kámen 5 routes Věž Pryskyřičného dolu 5 routes Starosta 5 routes Tokáňská věž 5 routes Barbucha 5 routes Špendlík 5 routes Postilión 5 routes Soudek (Beatricina věž) 5 routes Věž Tadeáše Haenkeho 5 routes Strážce jehly 5 routes Vlasatice 5 routes Schovaný kužel 5 routes Sýrový plátek 5 routes Zub 5 routes Jedový zub 5 routes Brontosaurus 5 routes Sršeň 4 routes Kobylka 4 routes Strážce masivu 4 routes Vlkodlak 4 routes Západní špička 4 routes Hrot 4 routes Střílna 4 routes Maják 4 routes Šakalova věž 4 routes Skylla 4 routes Strážce Pryskyřičného dolu 4 routes Alenčino zrcadlo 4 routes Ama Dablam 4 routes Bílinský kámen 4 routes Jelení věže 4 routes Kalich 4 routes Strážce Vosího vrchu 4 routes Věž Mostkového dolu 3 routes Melzerova jehla 3 routes Bludička 3 routes Sysifův kámen 3 routes Křesadlo 3 routes Hlava Růžové zahrady 3 routes Jednorožec 3 routes Bašta růžové zahrady 3 routes Dolní hrádek 3 routes Mamut 3 routes Zátiší 3 routes Klekánice 3 routes Kost 3 routes Tokáňská jehla 3 routes Požárník 2 routes Věž národního parku 2 routes Vyvolávač duchů 2 routes Černá paní (Dětská hlava) 2 routes Dži - dži 2 routes Zelený pepř 2 routes Lesovik 2 routes Verdon 2 routes Pytlák 2 routes Manželská věž 2 routes Černý kužel 1 route Jizerská věž 1 route Lebka 1 route Deštníková věž (Paraple) 1 route
3
Bašta růžové zahrady
From the north via chimney between the tower and the massif to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Bašta růžové zahrady
Like 'Jump to the large balcony'. Descend completely to the right, overhang, and along… Rock Climbing
2+
Skylla
Left of the south edge via chimney and face, then along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Skylla
Directly up the south edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Skylla
Directly up the center of the east face to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Skylla
Right up the face and along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Věž Pryskyřičného dolu
Up the center of the north face via a rib and the face past 2 rings, higher up the gully… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Věž Pryskyřičného dolu
Via the SE edge across the circle to the bore and from it left into the gully. Up it to… Rock Climbing
6
Věž Pryskyřičného dolu
Up the edge past a ring to a balcony and then via the Old Route to the summit. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Věž Pryskyřičného dolu
Via the Magic Carpet route to the bore and directly to the summit with a 'falcon'. Rock Climbing
2+
Střílna
From the west, up a chimney using opposition moves between the tower and the massif to a… Rock Climbing
3
Střílna
From the north, between the tower and the massif near the edge of the chimney, higher up… Rock Climbing
5
Věž Pryskyřičného dolu
Up the south face diagonally left into a niche (constructive) and up the face past an… Rock Climbing
2+
Střílna
From the south, up the chimney between the tower and the massif to a wedged boulder, up… Rock Climbing
5+
Sýrový plátek
From the highest point in the upland face, up the face to the left, past a (natural)… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Sýrový plátek
Up the upland face and a rib to a ring, higher up the face to the summit. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Sýrový plátek
Up the left edge of the narrow northwest face past a ring to a ledge. Diagonally right up… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Sýrový plátek
Start in the left part of the upland face. Traverse right to the edge and up it past a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Sýrový plátek
From the upland side, a ledge to the left into the valley face. Up the face past a ring… Rock Climbing
4-
Střílna
Near the southwest edge, up a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Kalich
From the massif, descend the face and a step-over to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Zátiší
From the east, up the gully and chimney to the sub-peak, like the Old Route to the summit. Rock Climbing
?
Zátiší
From the massif, jump to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Zátiší
In the upland face, up the chimney to the sub-peak and then up the face to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Jižní kříž
On the left in the west face, up the face near a small corner directly into the gully and… Rock Climbing
2+
Jižní kříž
From the massif descend via chimney to the saddle and then up the chimney that splits the… Rock Climbing
4+
Jižní kříž
South edge over an overhang into the Southeast Route and follow that to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Jižní kříž
Like the "Upper Route," descend about 4 m, traverse right across a smooth belly, and from… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Jižní kříž
To the right and in the west face, a short crack to a ledge, diagonally left up the face… Rock Climbing
4-
Kalich
From the massif descend through a ravine to the saddle. Traverse left into the valley… Rock Climbing

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