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Climbing at Na Tokáni

463 routes
95 areas
2–9/9+ grades

Na Tokáni is a Bohemian Switzerland National Park sector with more than 460 routes on 95 sandstone towers – for example Cipísek, the Great and Small Towers of the Rose Garden, Johanův kámen, Jedlový roh, Spálený hrad, Měsíční kámen, Křinický kostel, Ježibaba and Řádný občan. Vertical walls dominate, often in the shade, with rings and textile protection; grades from 2 to 9/9+.

Part of 9. Bohemian Switzerland NP, Na Tokáni has 463 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 9/9+. Explore its 95 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

Inside the national park you may climb only on permitted rocks.

The park administration announces seasonal access bans each year for sites with nesting birds. Some towers are closed permanently (the "Jetřichovice – zakázané" sector). Check the ČHS crag database and the park administration's website before every visit.

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Cipísek 14 routes Velká věž růžové zahrady 13 routes Johanův kámen 11 routes Jedlový roh 11 routes Spálený hrad 10 routes Měsíční kámen 9 routes Malá věž růžové zahrady 8 routes Křinický kostel 8 routes Ježibaba 8 routes Řádný občan 8 routes Jižní kříž 7 routes Budha 7 routes Orlická věž 7 routes Big stone 7 routes Lidožrout 7 routes Pytlácký kámen 7 routes Strážce pětidomí 7 routes Křinický král 7 routes Čtyřlístek 7 routes Zelená věž 6 routes Želva 6 routes Březová věžička 6 routes Strážce mostků 6 routes Koňský zub (Sluneční hlava) 6 routes Vosa 6 routes Železná hlava 6 routes Šikmá věž 6 routes Poustevna 6 routes Křinická věž 6 routes Vosí věž 6 routes Krkonošská věž 5 routes Čertovo kvítko 5 routes Rejnok 5 routes Döbelnský erb 5 routes Letní kámen 5 routes Věž Pryskyřičného dolu 5 routes Starosta 5 routes Tokáňská věž 5 routes Barbucha 5 routes Špendlík 5 routes Postilión 5 routes Soudek (Beatricina věž) 5 routes Věž Tadeáše Haenkeho 5 routes Strážce jehly 5 routes Vlasatice 5 routes Schovaný kužel 5 routes Sýrový plátek 5 routes Zub 5 routes Jedový zub 5 routes Brontosaurus 5 routes Sršeň 4 routes Kobylka 4 routes Strážce masivu 4 routes Vlkodlak 4 routes Západní špička 4 routes Hrot 4 routes Střílna 4 routes Maják 4 routes Šakalova věž 4 routes Skylla 4 routes Strážce Pryskyřičného dolu 4 routes Alenčino zrcadlo 4 routes Ama Dablam 4 routes Bílinský kámen 4 routes Jelení věže 4 routes Kalich 4 routes Strážce Vosího vrchu 4 routes Věž Mostkového dolu 3 routes Melzerova jehla 3 routes Bludička 3 routes Sysifův kámen 3 routes Křesadlo 3 routes Hlava Růžové zahrady 3 routes Jednorožec 3 routes Bašta růžové zahrady 3 routes Dolní hrádek 3 routes Mamut 3 routes Zátiší 3 routes Klekánice 3 routes Kost 3 routes Tokáňská jehla 3 routes Požárník 2 routes Věž národního parku 2 routes Vyvolávač duchů 2 routes Černá paní (Dětská hlava) 2 routes Dži - dži 2 routes Zelený pepř 2 routes Lesovik 2 routes Verdon 2 routes Pytlák 2 routes Manželská věž 2 routes Černý kužel 1 route Jizerská věž 1 route Lebka 1 route Deštníková věž (Paraple) 1 route
2+
Spálený hrad
In the S face, use the narrow chimney between the tower and the massif, then up the wall… Rock Climbing
2+
Spálený hrad
From the N, use the gully to the saddle and then the chimney to the right between the… Rock Climbing
2+
Döbelnský erb
From the N, use the chimney between the tower and the massif near the edge, then up the… Rock Climbing
4+
Požárník
In the SE face, briefly use the corner and traverse left across the iron ledge, then up… Rock Climbing
3
Požárník
From the upper face, go right across the wall to the valley face and use the chimney to… Rock Climbing
4-
Döbelnský erb
Rock Climbing
2
Döbelnský erb
Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Döbelnský erb
Like the Mountain Path, descend the gully 2m to the left and jump to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Döbelnský erb
Descend from the massif to the right via the gully and overhang to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Černá paní (Dětská hlava)
From W or E by the chimney to the subrock and by the left edge to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Černá paní (Dětská hlava)
By the edge over 2 bolts, higher up left or straight to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Vlasatice
From E by the narrow chimney between the tower and the massif to the ledge, opposition… Rock Climbing
3
Vlasatice
From the massif descend to the ledge, overhang and by gully to the top. Rock Climbing
8/8+
Vlasatice
By the SW edge over 2 rings straight to the top. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Vlasatice
In the center of the downhill wall by the wall to the ring. First by the wall straight,… Rock Climbing
3
Březová věžička
By the chimney (using opposition technique) in the uphill wall to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Vlasatice
On the right in the downhill wall by the chimney to the East subpeak (rappel ring).… Rock Climbing
4+
Březová věžička
On the right in the uphill wall, by the wall 2m upwards to the edge and by it to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Březová věžička
On the right in the S wall, by the wall diagonally to the left to the ledge below the… Rock Climbing
2
Březová věžička
From S from the massif by overhang to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Březová věžička
By the downhill edge straight to the top. Rock Climbing
2+
Březová věžička
By the edge straight to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Letní kámen
To the right of the Old Route, by the gully along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Letní kámen
On the left, along the downhill edge to the ledge, right to the balcony and on the left… Rock Climbing
5
Letní kámen
Through the center of the uphill wall straight to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Letní kámen
In the left part of the uphill wall (building up) to the ledge and on the left by the… Rock Climbing
4-
Letní kámen
On the right in the uphill wall, by the wall diagonally to the right to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Křinická věž
In the right part of the S wall, by the wall (ring) and the crack to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2+
Křinická věž
From the south, climb the chimney between the tower and the massif to the platform. Climb… Rock Climbing
3
Strážce mostků
Climb the upper edge to the sub-summit and follow the Old Route to the summit. Rock Climbing

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