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Climbing at Na Tokáni

463 routes
95 areas
2–9/9+ grades

Na Tokáni is a Bohemian Switzerland National Park sector with more than 460 routes on 95 sandstone towers – for example Cipísek, the Great and Small Towers of the Rose Garden, Johanův kámen, Jedlový roh, Spálený hrad, Měsíční kámen, Křinický kostel, Ježibaba and Řádný občan. Vertical walls dominate, often in the shade, with rings and textile protection; grades from 2 to 9/9+.

Part of 9. Bohemian Switzerland NP, Na Tokáni has 463 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 9/9+. Explore its 95 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

Inside the national park you may climb only on permitted rocks.

The park administration announces seasonal access bans each year for sites with nesting birds. Some towers are closed permanently (the "Jetřichovice – zakázané" sector). Check the ČHS crag database and the park administration's website before every visit.

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Cipísek 14 routes Velká věž růžové zahrady 13 routes Johanův kámen 11 routes Jedlový roh 11 routes Spálený hrad 10 routes Měsíční kámen 9 routes Malá věž růžové zahrady 8 routes Křinický kostel 8 routes Ježibaba 8 routes Řádný občan 8 routes Jižní kříž 7 routes Budha 7 routes Orlická věž 7 routes Big stone 7 routes Lidožrout 7 routes Pytlácký kámen 7 routes Strážce pětidomí 7 routes Křinický král 7 routes Čtyřlístek 7 routes Zelená věž 6 routes Želva 6 routes Březová věžička 6 routes Strážce mostků 6 routes Koňský zub (Sluneční hlava) 6 routes Vosa 6 routes Železná hlava 6 routes Šikmá věž 6 routes Poustevna 6 routes Křinická věž 6 routes Vosí věž 6 routes Krkonošská věž 5 routes Čertovo kvítko 5 routes Rejnok 5 routes Döbelnský erb 5 routes Letní kámen 5 routes Věž Pryskyřičného dolu 5 routes Starosta 5 routes Tokáňská věž 5 routes Barbucha 5 routes Špendlík 5 routes Postilión 5 routes Soudek (Beatricina věž) 5 routes Věž Tadeáše Haenkeho 5 routes Strážce jehly 5 routes Vlasatice 5 routes Schovaný kužel 5 routes Sýrový plátek 5 routes Zub 5 routes Jedový zub 5 routes Brontosaurus 5 routes Sršeň 4 routes Kobylka 4 routes Strážce masivu 4 routes Vlkodlak 4 routes Západní špička 4 routes Hrot 4 routes Střílna 4 routes Maják 4 routes Šakalova věž 4 routes Skylla 4 routes Strážce Pryskyřičného dolu 4 routes Alenčino zrcadlo 4 routes Ama Dablam 4 routes Bílinský kámen 4 routes Jelení věže 4 routes Kalich 4 routes Strážce Vosího vrchu 4 routes Věž Mostkového dolu 3 routes Melzerova jehla 3 routes Bludička 3 routes Sysifův kámen 3 routes Křesadlo 3 routes Hlava Růžové zahrady 3 routes Jednorožec 3 routes Bašta růžové zahrady 3 routes Dolní hrádek 3 routes Mamut 3 routes Zátiší 3 routes Klekánice 3 routes Kost 3 routes Tokáňská jehla 3 routes Požárník 2 routes Věž národního parku 2 routes Vyvolávač duchů 2 routes Černá paní (Dětská hlava) 2 routes Dži - dži 2 routes Zelený pepř 2 routes Lesovik 2 routes Verdon 2 routes Pytlák 2 routes Manželská věž 2 routes Černý kužel 1 route Jizerská věž 1 route Lebka 1 route Deštníková věž (Paraple) 1 route
7+/8-
Křinická věž
Climb the valley (west) face over a ring to a chimney and left to the 2nd ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Křinická věž
From the massif, descend the chimney and crack. Overhang and climb the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Křinická věž
In the left part of the S wall, by the crack to the top. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Křinická věž
From the center of the south face, traverse left to a ring. Chimney and wall upwards (3 x… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Strážce mostků
Climb up along the left upper edge and right to the ring of the African Route. Follow… Rock Climbing
4-
Strážce mostků
Climb the wall along the southeast edge (2 x old fixed gear - 'clocks') to the sub-summit… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Strážce mostků
To the left of the Old Route, climb a short crack and traverse left to a ring. Climb the… Rock Climbing
4-
Strážce mostků
Climb the chimney in the valley face to the sub-summit and follow the Old Route to the… Rock Climbing
3
Strážce mostků
From the upper wall, climb a narrow chimney to the sub-summit and then the wall to the… Rock Climbing
2+
Věž Mostkového dolu
From the north or south to the upper wall. Climb the chimney from the south between the… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Věž Mostkového dolu
From the south, jump from the massif to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Věž Mostkového dolu
From the east, briefly descend through the crack in the massif to the pillar and follow… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Melzerova jehla
From the south, traverse left to the left valley edge and follow it past 2 summit rings. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Melzerova jehla
Climb the upper wall past the old fixed gear (pitons/slings - 'clocks') to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Melzerova jehla
Climb using a chimney/corner between the right upper edge and the massif, then overhang… Rock Climbing
4+
Bílinský kámen
Directly to the summit via the valley (south) face. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Černý kužel
To the right of the upper edge, climb the wall to the left to the crack and follow it to… Rock Climbing
5
Bílinský kámen
On the left in the upper wall, climb the gentle rib to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Bílinský kámen
Climb the left upper edge, then the wall to the left to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Bílinský kámen
Directly to the summit via the edge. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2+
Pytlácký kámen
In the center of the south face, climb the chimney and then the wall using steps to the… Rock Climbing
5
Pytlácký kámen
On the right in the south face, follow the crack through the hole to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Pytlácký kámen
On the right in the west face, directly up the face to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Pytlácký kámen
Between the South Chimney and the Old Route, climb the wall past a ring to the sub-summit… Rock Climbing
3
Pytlácký kámen
In the south face, up the left-hand chimney and then up the face using the steps to the… Rock Climbing
2+
Pytlácký kámen
On the left in the north face, up the chimney to the balcony and as for the South Chimney… Rock Climbing
3
Pytlácký kámen
From the NW traverse left and up the overgrown gully into the chimney. As for the Old… Rock Climbing
5
Křinický král
From the east edge, traverse left across the ring into the chimney of route 1. Audience.… Rock Climbing
5+
Křinický král
In the NW face, climb the crack over 2 rings, then up the face to the right to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Křinický král
Completely on the left in the south face, climb the slightly rough face to the recess … Rock Climbing

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